So there I was checking my nuts and… (1 Viewer)

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After finally finding the culprit of noise that eluded two shops and changing a ball-joint I checked my nuts and seen one very loose. With the air ratchet I began tightening and this happens. Did I over-torque or was it already stripped when they rebuilt my diffs and it didn’t take much for it to come out.

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Leads me to my next question…are there stronger studs I should be using instead and what’s the damage aside from probably tapping the hole for good measure. I think Joey makes something to keep them from walking out but what else is there.

Off topic but the noise I had only happened while loading the front left corner of the truck and it was a metallic clank.

Once I pulled off the steering stabilizer I put two and two together and figured the ball was maybe damaged a bit when the steering gear box and and pitman arm was changed.
 
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Ball joint? Was this on an 80 series land cruiser you had them change a ball joint?

Not sure your air ratchet has enough beans to over torque much of anything. I would say it got loose and cracked or was weakened before you got to it
 
Show us the broken cross section of the stud.

ARP makes hub and knuckle studs for the 80 that are torqued to a higher value, especially the knuckle studs.

New oem hardware and some vigilance is plenty good for most of us. I’ve had couple FJ40’s and now several years in an 80 and never broke a stock stud.

I do run the ARP hardware now but I also run hydro steering assist and tend towards the abusive side.

Hub and knuckle studs need to be checked before every off road adventure.
 
One I get it apart I’ll report back next week. I heard marlin crawler makes a stud kit that I’ll check out.
 
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Ball joint? Was this on an 80 series land cruiser you had them change a ball joint?

Not sure your air ratchet has enough beans to over torque much of anything. I would say it got loose and cracked or was weakened before you got to it
No, I had the power steering gearbox replaced using the 105 pitman arm but reused the same ball joint.

I’m pretty sure the air ratchet didn’t have the beans but I also turned it a few times when the air ratchet stopped.
 
Show us the broken cross section of the stud.

ARP makes hub and knuckle studs for the 80 that are torqued to a higher value, especially the knuckle studs.

New oem hardware and some vigilance is plenty good for most of us. I’ve had couple FJ40’s and now several years in an 80 and never broke a stock stud.

I do run the ARP hardware now but I also run hydro steering assist and tend towards the abusive side.

Hub and knuckle studs need to be checked before every off road adventure.
yup, if we can see what the fracture surface looks like we can tell you if it was an overload event (you broke it with the air ratchet) or if it was a slow failure (beach marks!)... bit more to it but you get the idea.

Just turn the section you have on it's end and show us. doesn't have to be the end still in the truck
 
Just buy a set of OEM from @NLXTACY , they are fine take your knuckles off and clean them reinstall the studs with red loc-tite and torque the studs at I believe 47FTLBS , then put everything else back together and torque the nuts at 70FTLBS I believe , I have had mine for years like this I run 35's and a big heavy cast iron pig in my engine bay
 

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