QuackAxel
SILVER Star
Seems to cheap to be quality. Looking to only do this once.
Bypassing radiator transmission cooling. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Maynster
- Start date
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16400-66081 Aluminum two row. Not cheap but discounted if purchased online.
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
16400-66040 this is the number it calls for for my 94. What's the difference?
It fits all FZJ’s, that’s why I posted the number. I run it, many run it. The older number is most likely copper/brass construction. Run Aluminum. If you want to impress someone with your radiator buy a Ron Davis.
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
Yea I figured. Nah! Just looking for functionality.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
alia176
SILVER Star
While I have never gotten a compliment from my Ron Davis, but i was truely impressed by how well it performed over the past 4 yrs of ownership...RIP RD.
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
If they were just a little more reasonable I would bite! But 4 times the price of OEM? Do you see 4 times the benefit?
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I am an advocate of removing the radiator pass through transmission pipes and putting them through a separate cooler if possible, if you really want to go through the radiator then put an extra cooler before the engine radiator. TBH, the only radiator failures I have seen when the coolant get's into the transmission is when the coolant has not been changed regularly and the antifreeze get's watered down, the result is the cooler tube in the lower radiator tank rusts through, so it is more about maintenance in the long run.
The amount of head gaskets/radiators that fall apart in Spain is due to corrosion from not having any antifreeze in the radiator is incredible, and they are all English people, because you don't need antifreeze in a hot country right? Wrong!
Regards
Dave
The amount of head gaskets/radiators that fall apart in Spain is due to corrosion from not having any antifreeze in the radiator is incredible, and they are all English people, because you don't need antifreeze in a hot country right? Wrong!
Regards
Dave
I went ahead and bypassed the radiator using a Deral stacked plate cooler and autometer ATF temp gauge...hot at idle between 120-150 degrees. Temps rise very fast at stop lights. Moving she runs down to 80 degrees. This is Calfornia weather.
Nothing about this sounds like by-passing the water on oil cooler is a good thing. More than anything, a water on oil cooler does a very good job of stabilizing the oil temp quickly, much quicker than an air to oil cooler. The coolant in a radiator sets the oil temp to where the air on oil cooler can finish the job of keeping the oil temp somewhere with in the realm of warm enough and not so hot that the oil becomes overheated.
The rapid changes in oil temp that you report, the up and down, up and down, is exactly what the water on oil cooler is there to keep from happening.
140f-160f is what we want in a perfect world unless we run full synthetic fluid.
I give no thought to the claims that running trans oil through the radiator warms the oil up sooner therefor allowing over drive and converter lock up sooner because mine does this as soon I leave the driveway anyway. Maybe mine is dumb…
Fluid from a converter that’s been shearing oil under severe loads is very hot, and can be much hotter than engine coolant. So, 190deg coolant can and will reduce trans oil temps from the 250+ degrees that it can be out the converter rapidly down to a temp that the factory air on oil cooler can then adjust to within that range we are looking for most of the time. No rapid spikes or dips.
