Builds The Green Bastard (1 Viewer)

[Rusty Marlin]

I've been changing out 2L every oil change for the past 3 years, so that's 257K-211K/7.5~6*2=12L of ATF slowly mixed and exchanged over 46K miles.

My ATF is ruby red and no longer smells burnt. The trans shifts very well and no surprises.

I know peeps that have had full fluid changes done and then had tyranny failure in 4-6K miles latter. (none in a land cruiser) The theory is that the new fluid shocks all the debris that's hiding in the corners loose and that clogs filters and orifices. As opposed to a little fresh fluid every oil change that refreshes the additives and cleans gently over time.

An Awful lot of hear-say on tranny flushes, YMMV.

 

[roflbox]

I've been changing out 2L every oil change for the past 3 years, so that's 257K-211K/7.5~6*2=12L of ATF slowly mixed and exchanged over 46K miles.

My ATF is ruby red and no longer smells burnt. The trans shifts very well and no surprises.

I know peeps that have had full fluid changes done and then had tyranny failure in 4-6K miles latter. (none in a land cruiser) The theory is that the new fluid shocks all the debris that's hiding in the corners loose and that clogs filters and orifices. As opposed to a little fresh fluid every oil change that refreshes the additives and cleans gently over time.

An Awful lot of hear-say on tranny flushes, YMMV.

Excellent, just got done changing the transmission fluid, what came out was still surprisingly gross looking / mildly burnt smelling. I dont think the transmission in this got much love, will opt out of the power flush from the dealership.
Cycled through the gears twice, pausing 10sec on each gear position.
Going to let the dipstick tube settle down overnight, and check the fluid level again in the morning.

 

[mudgudgeon]

A curious transmission "problem" has started cropping up.
Only seems to occur on rolling stops.
Example:
Exiting my neighborhood I take a right on to a main road, there is enough visibility that I kind of slowly slow down / roll into the stop sign.

If I re-apply the gas immediately, the transmission wont take a gear, and just revs the engine, then clunks hard into gear.

I checked my transmission fluid levels, and I appear to have overfilled it when replacing the fluid (Valvoline dex3 ATF), and the fluid level (at cold) is just shy of the hot mark starting band.

Any thoughts? This seems to only happen at rolling stops / low speed turns

Sounds like enough of a reason to change it out for a 5 speed stick shift

 

[roflbox]

Alrighty then.

Today was less than exciting.
Drained out transmission last night, added in 2L of fluid per FSM / Manual.
Checked fluid level this morning, right between the 2 cold marks.
Went to return the caliper core to Napa, transmission was a lot more uppity, sometimes refusing to shift in between gears in various situations (accelerating after braking and exiting slow low speed turns again)

Got home, there was no fluid on the dipstick at all.

Looked at it further after work / went out and drove it around, I am up to ~3.5L of total fluid added, it seems to make an improvement in shifting with more fluid, but I still am having problems seeing the fluid on the dipstick, and dont want to just keep adding more and more

Will see what the dipstick is like tomorrow.


Am I causing extreme harm to the transmission driving it around at low speeds trying to figure out what the deal is?
I am driving with caution / care

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Only ever check trans fluid level when the trans is at full operating temp.
Then with foot on brake, run through the gears, all of them, pausing at each one to feel the shift. From P to L and L to P.
Now check the fluid level.

 

[roflbox]

Good news!
It was just a lack of transmission fluid (and I still think it is low, going to check again tomorrow)

I am probably up to 4.5L+ added in?

I do remember when I did the first transmission fluid swap (this one is the 3rd)
I was amazed at what the manual called 2L, it looked like a whole lot more than that in the drain pan

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Good news!
It was just a lack of transmission fluid (and I still think it is low, going to check again tomorrow)

I am probably up to 4.5L+ added in?

I do remember when I did the first transmission fluid swap (this one is the 3rd)
I was amazed at what the manual called 2L, it looked like a whole lot more than that in the drain pan

Glad you got it figured out. How do you measure how much fluid came out?
I use a plastic Folgers tub, its translucent so I can watch the fluid run up to a 2L line marked on the side. At just shy of 2L I start running the plug back in the pan and by the time it gets tight the fluid is right to the line. Timing is everything.
Top off with 2L out of the new jug, run it around the block to get everything up to temp, and do a final check on the dip stick.

 

[roflbox]

Glad you got it figured out. How do you measure how much fluid came out?
I use a plastic Folgers tub, its translucent so I can watch the fluid run up to a 2L line marked on the side. At just shy of 2L I start running the plug back in the pan and by the time it gets tight the fluid is right to the line. Timing is everything.
Top off with 2L out of the new jug, run it around the block to get everything up to temp, and do a final check on the dip stick.

I did not measure how much fluid came out when I did the very first ATF drain.

Good to know your technique! I will put something like that together for the future!

 

[roflbox]

Got to test the Toyo M/Ts out today, was pleasantly surprised how they did in the snow.

 

[roflbox]

After little bits of sweating, and lots of hammering, I removed the destroyed factory recovery point, and installed another.
Also my A/C compressor clutch assembly is weebly wobbly when it rotates, I removed the belt, and will address that this or next week (before spring / summer though )


Here are the current busted mementos from the green bastard:

Sheared stud, bleeder port, brake hard line fitting, one of the recovery points

 

[Dusten]

After little bits of sweating, and lots of hammering, I removed the destroyed factory recovery point, and installed another.
Also my A/C compressor clutch assembly is weebly wobbly when it rotates, I removed the belt, and will address that this or next week (before spring / summer though )


Here are the current busted mementos from the green bastard:

Sheared stud, bleeder port, brake hard line fitting, one of the recovery points
View attachment 2903070

If you want to keep recovery points in the OEM spot look at the trail tailor ones. I have a set. They're still on my bench because my land cruiser hasn't been home in almost a month

 

[MrMikeyG]

I'm sure you're well aware, but those oem "loops" are only meant as shipping and transport tie down points. There are probably countless examples of them being used as recovery points without incident, but they weren't designed for it according to the sage wisdom on these forums. There are a few on here who have added more weld bead to them in an effort to increase strength.

 

[roflbox]

I'm sure you're well aware, but those oem "loops" are only meant as shipping and transport tie down points. There are probably countless examples of them being used as recovery points without incident, but they weren't designed for it according to the sage wisdom on these forums. There are a few on here who have added more weld bead to them in an effort to increase strength.

ah, I was not aware that those were just transportation tie downs.

I will look for something (probably the trail tailor ones) since the "recovery points" on the ARB bumper look quite flimsy

 

[Broski]

To be more clear those are emergency tow eyelets

 

[mudgudgeon]

To be more clear those are emergency tow eyelets

And for more clarity, towing and recovery can be two vastly different scenarios

 

[Broski]

And for more clarity, towing and recovery can be two vastly different scenarios

As both words are vastly different !!
If you read it there for hardsurfaced roads only = towing

 

[roflbox]

Removed the rear hitch today, makes a large difference aesthetically, and I am glad I removed it!

Next to figure out if I can fit a 1up in the bolt on receiver mount in the middle, and if it will allow the tailgate to fold down in the "down" position.

https://www.1up-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/100025_FITMENT.pdf

Pics arent the best

 

[Broski]

Removed the rear hitch today, makes a large difference aesthetically, and I am glad I removed it!

Next to figure out if I can fit a 1up in the bolt on receiver mount in the middle, and if it will allow the tailgate to fold down in the "down" position.

https://www.1up-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/100025_FITMENT.pdf

Pics arent the best




View attachment 2906425


View attachment 2906426

Way better Departure angle as well.
Looks good.

 

[roflbox]

Did a little measuring, for the bolt on hitch, I will need one that mounts the center of the receiver tube in the center (horizontally and vertically) and that should give me *just* enough space. There is ~5.25" with the gate down.

 

[on the rocks]

Next to figure out if I can fit a 1up in the bolt on receiver mount in the middle, and if it wil

Mount it to your spare instead. Your improving your departure only to gain a few inches to rip off an expensive piece of hardware.