Don't put it past Kalifailure to somehow conjure up a way to make you and use of your Land Cruiser miserable between now and then... Congrats.
Rebuild stock carb cost? Issues with passing CA smog (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ro11dice
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I love my state make no mistake but it is a hassle, especially when older cars and big business are allowed to skip it. now to wait for the next thing to have to fix ...
That’s great! ! !
What did you do to have those readings besides premium fuel? That looks like a newer car out of your tailpipe.
- Thread starter
- #45
Saga continues....
3rd test: FAILED
but now I'm passing the 15mph and failing the 25mph. It's reversed!
What I did after the 2nd fail and before the 3rd attempt:
- reviewed emissions - looked good
- noted my intake hose from my air pump was loose. all secure now
-valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket. valves seemed tight initially. i did a cold adj to spec and sounds more like a sewing machine more than ever
- changed the rear tires from 33" to 31"
-oil change
- i was at 3/4 tank full. tried to siphon fuel out to replace with premium/E-85 but was only able to get about a gallon out. Never siphoned gas before and was surprised i was able to do it but upset i was only able to get a gallon. when I filled up with premium i was able to get 7 gals.
above are my previous 2 failed test and here is my latest test:
Not sure why the flip from 15mph and 25mph is occurring but i'm now only off by CO% by 0.48. O2% is still quite low for some reason. @2mbb - you mentioned previously that it could be my air injection. when i went to check the air pump, the intake hose was loose. i re-secured it and felt a vacuum - I just didn't have any way to measure it. I am going to run thru the AI once more in case i missed something. @fjc-man - u mentioned i may need a new cat which is what the smog tech mentioned. and i do have what looks like the original cat. Anything else to try to tackle here? I didn't change spark plugs (which are only 3 yrs old). I do have a new set sitting in the garage.
Yes, @sacfj60, curious minds want to know!
Your % O2 above 15 mph is zero = Elevated CO from incomplete combustion because of low O2 = fail
If you have the 35 year old brick OE CAT it needs replaced if you want to keep the truck reg in Kalifailure. Be prepared for replacement sticker shock. But your Zero % O2 is not from the CAT.
If you have the 35 year old brick OE CAT it needs replaced if you want to keep the truck reg in Kalifailure. Be prepared for replacement sticker shock. But your Zero % O2 is not from the CAT.
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My advise for getting the cat replaced somewhat affordably is to find a small muffler shop, don't take it to a chain or big exhaust place. When I did mine I think it was ~$250 labor included; was a number of years ago though.
Classic Muffler in San Jose is who I used to go to. Andy is the owner/tech; his welds are trash but he is quick, affordable, and super friendly. There is a smog shop next door and he checked with them to verify that he got the correct cat before installing it.
Classic Muffler in San Jose is who I used to go to. Andy is the owner/tech; his welds are trash but he is quick, affordable, and super friendly. There is a smog shop next door and he checked with them to verify that he got the correct cat before installing it.
A C.A.R.B compliant OBDII CAT is now around $1200 - $1400 depending on IF you can find an off-brand or not. More than likely only the CA NY CO one from Magnaflow will be all you can find and that is now just under $1500.
But keep voting cerulean
But keep voting cerulean
Good thing FJ60's are pre OBD....
Kalifailure requires all 1976 and newer vehicles that had a CAT as original equipment to have replacement CATs be OBD II compliant retroactively. Doesn't matter if the vehicle was OBD equipped or not.
This is actually not a bad thing. OBDII specs for CATs are far more efficient that older specs.
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You should go through the air injection test procedures in the 2F emissions manual. Tightening a loose hose on the suctions side of the air pump is not going to influence the output of the pump and where it goes. You need to check the operation of the distribution valves, inspect the check valves and confirm there is adequate air pumped into the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.
nothing at all. i i added some sea foam to the gas and drove it until hot, left it idling and passed. a huge improvement to my first test i posted in this thread - even the smog shop was surprised. two years ago i had the carb rebuilt and i had 0% CO on that test. first time in years i didn't need to make repairs to pass smog.
- Thread starter
- #54
@2mbb - Yes, I'm going thru the AI system in the Emissions Control System manual...painstakingly. Getting familiar with all the internal parts that make up the system. One part I'm not locating is the OC Thermo Sensor. Can you point me in the right direction where this is? I was expecting this to be somewhere in the engine bay based on the picture in the manual (below) but I'm thinking it's the sensor coming out of the cat underneath the 60.
The other difficulties I'm encountering:
- Working with the old now hard-as-hell air hoses. From removing them from a component and trying not to break/crack the NLA hoses like the long ones connecting to the air cleaner
- access to the Check Valve from the Manifold - It think the answer here is going to need to remove a bunch of things to get access to it.
- Giving up on trying to measure air pressure with SST 09258-14010. BTW - did you ever make one (based on previous reviewed threads)? On a side note, I'm running a rebuilt smog pump from BZ which is the only different component in the system from my last smog test. In reviewing other posts, perhaps when my pump seized it sent bits/pieces to mess up my ABV - going thru that now. Initially, when I installed my rebuilt pump, it chirped but has since gone away. Sounded just like this. Without the SST, I'm not sure how to keep BZ honest on the rebuilt pump. Another thought is that I have another OEM pump that I can send them just i case I need to replace it.
Yes the thermosensor was originally inserted into the catalytic converter. It’s a rod about 6” long.
If you’re using a rebuilt air pump, chances are extremely high that it’s pumping air to spec.
These air pumps are really simple. If the internal vanes are good (and they will be with a rebuilt pump) it’ll do its job fine.
The pump doesn’t pump all that much air and it certainly isn’t under much pressure. Very easy to block it off with a thumb over a hose.
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As you found out, the SST for testing the air pump is kinda worthless. I have three of them. If you put your thumb over the hose that goes to the front of the Air Cleaner, then following the manual, direct flow into air cleaner, you should get a healthy but not a terribly forceful push: It's only about 7 psi as I remember and you'll be able to clearly tell if your ACV is switching directions of flow.
The check valves on the Air Rail and down pipe have to be working, too. If they're original, they are most likely toast or occluded.
Chances are very good you've got debris from a grenaded air pump messing up your ACV assy. They are difficult to take apart unless you have JIS Impact driver as the screws are loctite'd from the factory. I had all kinds of old fiber bits and blocks in both my 60s ACV assy's when I fixed them.
The check valves on the Air Rail and down pipe have to be working, too. If they're original, they are most likely toast or occluded.
Chances are very good you've got debris from a grenaded air pump messing up your ACV assy. They are difficult to take apart unless you have JIS Impact driver as the screws are loctite'd from the factory. I had all kinds of old fiber bits and blocks in both my 60s ACV assy's when I fixed them.
I found plenty of pieces of vanes in my ABV guts. Definitely worth taking apart and cleaning. Good chance to get all the carbon and soot out too. Beware the screw heads are SOFT and can be stripped easily, so I'd suggest a JIS cross-point screw driver instead of a phillips, penetrant, and a little heat. Disassemble the whole dang thing and shake any potential vane pieces out. Check valves are NLA, but I think I have one or two extra floating around if you're in need. I had a muffler shop butt weld a piece of tube with Chevy SAE threads to my ABV exhaust line so I can pick up that check valve at any parts store. It's for an 80s C10 or something. My BZ smog pump chirped for nearly 1000 miles but finally quieted down. It was pretty alarming haha.
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- #59
ordered a JIS cross point drill driver. appreciate check valve offer. I'll keep you posted. yeah, my BZ pump chirped for a while. it's finally quieted down and I think also at the 1k mi mark as well.
- Thread starter
- #60
Still working on the complete check of the AI system but I did notice something wrong with the ABV. Passing one but failing the other. I didn't race the engine with the accelerator pedal but through the throttle linkage in the bay. Releasing the throttle linkage closes the throttle valve, right? I just want to make sure I'm correctly getting a fail.
