Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (3 Viewers)

[Vossie]

Thanks! With the additional power I don't think I'll need to regear. Tundras without tow packages came with 4.10's, with tow packages 4.30's. They weigh a couple thousand lbs more than I will, so I don't think I'll have any issues with this setup.

I certainly got lucky with that truck bed. I like the length of SWB 45's, but I don't like the look of them. I think the LWB's are too long, and have too much rear overhang. With this setup, I'm able to combine the two and make it how I want (hopefully).

The tank will not fit in the factory 80 spot any longer due to the length and width of the new drivetrain. It will be sideways behind the rear axle. I actually just got it back from the radiator shop.... they boiled/cleaned it, and I was able to get the 3 new seals from Toyota for the filler, evap, and pump.

I am excited to use the 80 setup though. I like the size, the fact that its metal, and I can use the OEM steel skid plate.

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Thank you! Definitely go with the DD. The OBD stuff is nice, but I don't feel like it's quite there yet as far as every day driveability.

thanks for the input. Ive been going back and forth between old school gauges, an OBD2 and the dakota. I really want the dakota, its just on the pricey end. but I guess its well worth it.

 

[UZJ40]

OK... time to make some rear fenders and flares...

Start with cardboard when you can... much cheaper than metal

Trying to duplicate the front fender lines -

Good enough, lets move to metal -

I left some extra material on the front so I can wrap it around around the front corner of the bed, and an extra 3/4" on the bottom rear to fold in for strength -

Getting ready to weld the panel on. I drilled out a pattern in the N****n bed for some spot welds -

Spot welded on -

Now onto the flares....

 

[UZJ40]

Once again, @allan man helps out in a huge way by donating old fenders to my build...

I wanted a 2.5" flare to line up with the front fender, so I laid the tape and cut -

The hard thing about using a front fender for a rear flare is the front and rear angles are not the same -

You can see the difference here -

With the correct curve up front now, the fender sits about 1 inch too far back -

So I sandblasted the flare and took 1 inch out of the horizontal piece to center it over the tire -

Next I added an 1.5" to the front fender that drops down so it would meet up with the front edge of the bed -

 

[UZJ40]

Cleaned up a bit and different views... I think I like it! -

 

[Broski]

Well done Sir

 

[MOTOV8R]

Do you plan to build some type of bumper over that crossmember? Sorry if you mentioned this and I missed it. Nice fab work on the bed and flares.

 

[Broski]

Just for reference.
I completely removed that crossmember and Associated bracing on my 80 rock Crawler without issue.
It mite look cleaner without it.
I also run 39s on factory axles and run hard trails. so I think 37s would be fine on you reg and look really good on it.
I really like you build, great fabrication and attention to detail.

Thanks for posting.

 

[UZJ40]

Do you plan to build some type of bumper over that crossmember? Sorry if you mentioned this and I missed it. Nice fab work on the bed and flares.

Just for reference.
I completely removed that crossmember and Associated bracing on my 80 rock Crawler without issue.
It mite look cleaner without it.
I also run 39s on factory axles and run hard trails. so I think 37s would be fine on you reg and look really good on it.
I really like you build, great fabrication and attention to detail.

Thanks for posting.

That rear crossmember will be gone shortly. The bed needs to be in its permanent place before I start cutting and planning for the rear bumper. It will probably wrap around the back and go forward toward the rear fender flares to protect bottom of the bed.

I still might go with 37s if I see some I like. It would definitely look better, just less to worry about with 35's and 400hp.

Thanks for following!

 

[UZJ40]

I got some work done on the rear tailgate today.

I added the top trim piece on that matches the sides -

I decided to use barn door hinges for my tailgate hinges. I would have to modify them slightly though -

I cut the top off the middle on to make it symmetrical -

After some measurements, I installed some metric rivnuts in the sill and tailgate -

I had to cut one leg off of each side hinge to modify -

I then re-welded on new lets that are at a 90 degree angle with a slight curve -

All 3 done... tailgate opens and closes with ease now! And might look factory to an untrained eye -

 

[Jdc1]

Your work is inspiring, I really like how you make the out of the box, junkyard finds(bed, AC, drivetrain etc.) a part of your top tier builds. Thanks for taking the time to document.

 

[Tank5]

I like the way the tailgate turned out, the top edge really tied it back into the bed. The repurposed hinges look at home. Nicely done.

 

[TheHardWay]

Riley, YOU are a fabricator!

 

[UZJ40]

Time to put a fuel filler neck in. I like the earlier style without the door for this build, so I sourced one -

Making a template and transferring over -

Cutting into the new panel -

Tacked into place -

After lots of welding and grinding -

 

[UZJ40]

I had to find a way to cover the interior of my tailgate. I didn't want to use a flat piece of sheet metal as I thought it would look too plain and bend/dent too easily, so I set out to the junkyard again to find something stamped that would work (plus I didn't want to disappoint @Jdc1 by not reusing scrap!)

I came across this Nissan, and after some measurements, I thought the front of the bed would work great, so I sent to work -

Cut out -

Trimming the fat after getting it home -

Test fit -

And welded in. Not too worried about the edges because it will have a bedliner on it -

Almost done with the bed... Getting ready to paint!

 

[Broski]

Again nice work!!

 

[Vossie]

Reminds me of the old 75 series beds we got here in zim for a while back in the day

 

[UZJ40]

Up until now, I've had the transmission and transfer case resting on the OEM 80 series crossmember with a 2x4 for padding. I haven't been looking forward to making a crossmember, but I made time to do it yesterday and it came out well. It's 1/4" steel plate and it weighs about 25 lbs. I was able to retain the factory 3UR mount.

Before -

Cutting out with the plasma... what a huge timesaver -

Bottom pieces in and cardboard templates up -

Transferring templates to steel -

Welding up on the bench -

All done and boxed in... what a nice feeling! -

 

[MOTOV8R]

That is a really well done crossmember. Did you consider bolting it in? Seems like it may require pulling the body to get it in or out.

 

[Vossie]

Up until now, I've had the transmission and transfer case resting on the OEM 80 series crossmember with a 2x4 for padding. I haven't been looking forward to making a crossmember, but I made time to do it yesterday and it came out well. It's 1/4" steel plate and it weighs about 25 lbs. I was able to retain the factory 3UR mount.

Before -

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Cutting out with the plasma... what a huge timesaver -

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Bottom pieces in and cardboard templates up -

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Transferring templates to steel -

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Welding up on the bench -

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All done and boxed in... what a nice feeling! -

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Nice! Not looking good forward to making mine, but yours is giving me good ideas

 

[UZJ40]

That is a really well done crossmember. Did you consider bolting it in? Seems like it may require pulling the body to get it in or out.

Thanks. I thought about it, but decided against it. With the length of my transmission tunnel, I can still pull the transfer case off the transmission and then lower the transmission without needing to move the crossmember. I can even pull them straight up if I remove the seats/soft top.