1HZ Block heater ( not available at the traditional spots) (1 Viewer)

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Simple fix is a convection type heater.
I don't even drain coolant.
14mm deep socket to remove block drain plug, install the supplied adapter to 5/8" heater hose, this is supply for convection heater. Use the supplied "Y" to tie into the 5/8" hose to heater control valve on fire wall.
Your block drain is via skirting at shock tower behind the left tire(remove tire)
Keep heater low, wrap or isolate/insulate any spots where hose could rub.
this is a 10minuite job on the 1HZ or 1HDT. For a FZJ80 delete the PHH and extended the hose to water control water valve as above.
This system offers 1/4 heat on gauge at start up, sometimes a slight defrost of windshield.
Best to select Defrost on dash when plugged in. BTW everything is included in the kit, power is short but you can fix that!

The key is pick up coolant from as low as possible, send up to firewall control valve area as vertical as possible this ensures convection.

 
Any chance of an installed pic of the convection type? thanks!
 
I have installed these on my HZJ75, HDJ81's, FZJ80 and other vehicles.
The key is to get the supply from the block drain, mount the heater off of the frame with supplied hardware.
Keep the tank vertical and tie the supplied "Y" fitting below the valve in engine bay. Use 5/8" hose.
Turn defrost on during hearing.
My gauge reads 140f or more before start up.
You can also wrap your hoses if worried about wear.
Will try to get photos later.
Another option is by Kat's!
 
-17 Celsius or about -1f
Use a 14mm deep socket to remove block drain, I don't bother draining the fluid as very little leaks if the system is good. Helps if you remove the tire and skirting.
I use 5/8 heater hose, and you can try a brass "Y" instead of the supplied plastic y.
Good luck and enjoy!
Last pic shows the Kats heater mounted vertically, try not to rest the heater on the frame due to vibration.
Lower hose is cold coolant supply from block, as coolant is warmed convection takes over and this is why you want some vertical lift to the "Y"
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which of the the wattages is recommended? that product comes in 750, 1000, and 1500 watts?
 
I use 1500w.
 
I use 1500w.
That' makes sense given that you said coolant temp reads at 140degF or more before startup... seems like overkill, particularly if planning to plug in overnight. Or do you turn it on just and hour or so before go time and need the "quick" warm up?

Anyone care to comment on logic/rationale to use lower powered units?
 
That' makes sense given that you said coolant temp reads at 140degF or more before startup... seems like overkill, particularly if planning to plug in overnight. Or do you turn it on just and hour or so before go time and need the "quick" warm up?

Anyone care to comment on logic/rationale to use lower powered units?
I just installed a 1000w Temro 8000 series as a backup for my webasto or to use when I can easily plug in. At home I would plug in with a timer so it runs a couple hours before I might need it in the morning, at work I don’t pay for electricity so it’s going to run all day.

I will say it is far and away not a 10 minute job as some have stated, things are tight on the LHS of a 1HD-T. The heater works great though.
 
That' makes sense given that you said coolant temp reads at 140degF or more before startup... seems like overkill, particularly if planning to plug in overnight. Or do you turn it on just and hour or so before go time and need the "quick" warm up?

Anyone care to comment on logic/rationale to use lower powered units?
Haha!
At 5:00 am, going to work there is never enough heat.
Timer it, run it all day if you want but just do it!
 

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