I hear ya about time vs money. I spent too much time rehabbing my top. In retrospect, I think I might have been better off spending some money and buying a new one. Yours look great so far, looking forward to seeing it on your truck.
Aftermarket fiberglass rooftop options (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Curtice
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The new top looks fantastic. Just a thought though. I’ve only used nutserts once on a motorcycle seat, but what could you do if one of them started spinning. Do you think the drip gutter would support a roof rack?
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #23
Awesome info all.
You guys have me thinking maybe I will get this after all. I purchased a decent used one and a CCOT rain gutter. But I can try to sell those if worth it. I’m 3 years into my restore and ready to be done! The idea of doing all the work to rehab the top doesn’t sound too appealing. A “plug and play” sounds much better.
My one concern is I have an aftermarket SA tub and have had some body panel alignment issues because it isn’t a perfect OEM one. I’m worried the holes on the top would not line up. I mean, I know once the door headers, hatch header, etc are all bolted in it should be close, but make me worried.
So I guess the solution here is to NOT order the rivnuts, then I just drill my own holes at the appropriate location. That correct?
The other question, regarding the valance that attaches to the upper windshield frame. I know there are different versions. Is the only difference depending on if there are upper or lower wipers, as discussed earlier in this thread? Or are there other differences, even between years with all lower wipers?
You guys have me thinking maybe I will get this after all. I purchased a decent used one and a CCOT rain gutter. But I can try to sell those if worth it. I’m 3 years into my restore and ready to be done! The idea of doing all the work to rehab the top doesn’t sound too appealing. A “plug and play” sounds much better.
My one concern is I have an aftermarket SA tub and have had some body panel alignment issues because it isn’t a perfect OEM one. I’m worried the holes on the top would not line up. I mean, I know once the door headers, hatch header, etc are all bolted in it should be close, but make me worried.
So I guess the solution here is to NOT order the rivnuts, then I just drill my own holes at the appropriate location. That correct?
The other question, regarding the valance that attaches to the upper windshield frame. I know there are different versions. Is the only difference depending on if there are upper or lower wipers, as discussed earlier in this thread? Or are there other differences, even between years with all lower wipers?
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Curtice, I don’t know which 40 you’re considering a gozzard top for, but I wanted to point out that if it’s for the 1980 you probably have the cutout for the frame mounted washer nozzle on your existing top. Right?
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #25
Correct. It’s actually for my 1978, but the windshield I have for that one has that top washer nozzle as well (although I probably won’t use it and just use the hood nozzle).
But good point, I had forgot about the top nozzle on the later models. I guess it won’t matter if I don’t use it? Eg, just plug it.
But good point, I had forgot about the top nozzle on the later models. I guess it won’t matter if I don’t use it? Eg, just plug it.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
If it’s not notched, it’ll probably cover the hole. I was just thinking if you wanted to keep that nozzle you could have them do it.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #27
Cool, thanks. It is nice that they will customize the notches as needed.
So the only question is to rivnut or not to rivnut. I guess i'll be awaiting @southern son feedback on how the holes line up.
So the only question is to rivnut or not to rivnut. I guess i'll be awaiting @southern son feedback on how the holes line up.
Grab some popcorn and and beer because here comes a really honest review after this top consuming ALL of my Saturday and still not totally installed.
First impressions are that the top is well made, sturdy, and should give a long service life. I never expected it to fit perfectly going in and I was not disappointed because I realize that putting something made from a mold in 2021 won’t ever fit without modifying sheet metal from 1974 (assuming these vehicles have been used for what they were originally sold for as well).
My most positive surprise and one that will please everyone curious as to the hole placements: they’re all almost dead on. The only bolts I have gotten started at this point are the 2-3 in each back corner. I can’t 100% say if that’s any fault of Gozzard putting them in the wrong place or if it’s simply a case of me being exhausted after fighting my biggest issues of the day - I’m pretty confident the top is molded incorrectly on the driver’s side above the door.
At first I thought it was the windshield frame, top, or the door connector that was tweaked so I ended up slotting some holes and in the most egregious place drilled a new hole altogether because it was so far off. Picture below for how far off the hole is from the original mounting location in the connector.
This side of the top narrows so much more than the passenger side. After stepping back and looking at the relationship between the top to each side, it’s pretty uniform in overhang until you get here. My initial thought was that I had the top twisted in place until I saw this.
LH side:
Versus the RH side:
As a result of this I still don’t have the top totally on or in place and the header panel, which is way too short, REALLY doesn’t fit now either. I was able to make it work after many test fits and my own stupidity of being unable to drill a hole where I wanted it to be causing me to enlarge each hole more than I would ever like to admit…adding to my insanity is forgetting to account for the thickness of the weatherstrip that goes between the top and windshield frame. Didn’t think it would be that much difference, turns out I was wrong. The good news is that the fiberglass is easily cut/worked to do what I needed it to but that, unfortunately, doesn’t make my lack of skills with a drill any better.
First impressions are that the top is well made, sturdy, and should give a long service life. I never expected it to fit perfectly going in and I was not disappointed because I realize that putting something made from a mold in 2021 won’t ever fit without modifying sheet metal from 1974 (assuming these vehicles have been used for what they were originally sold for as well).
My most positive surprise and one that will please everyone curious as to the hole placements: they’re all almost dead on. The only bolts I have gotten started at this point are the 2-3 in each back corner. I can’t 100% say if that’s any fault of Gozzard putting them in the wrong place or if it’s simply a case of me being exhausted after fighting my biggest issues of the day - I’m pretty confident the top is molded incorrectly on the driver’s side above the door.
At first I thought it was the windshield frame, top, or the door connector that was tweaked so I ended up slotting some holes and in the most egregious place drilled a new hole altogether because it was so far off. Picture below for how far off the hole is from the original mounting location in the connector.
This side of the top narrows so much more than the passenger side. After stepping back and looking at the relationship between the top to each side, it’s pretty uniform in overhang until you get here. My initial thought was that I had the top twisted in place until I saw this.
LH side:
Versus the RH side:
As a result of this I still don’t have the top totally on or in place and the header panel, which is way too short, REALLY doesn’t fit now either. I was able to make it work after many test fits and my own stupidity of being unable to drill a hole where I wanted it to be causing me to enlarge each hole more than I would ever like to admit…adding to my insanity is forgetting to account for the thickness of the weatherstrip that goes between the top and windshield frame. Didn’t think it would be that much difference, turns out I was wrong. The good news is that the fiberglass is easily cut/worked to do what I needed it to but that, unfortunately, doesn’t make my lack of skills with a drill any better.
The too narrow tapering on the LH side vs the RH side is also keeping the top from sitting down properly because it’s hitting the LH side of the windshield frame while leaving a large gap on the RH side. Pictures below show the contact vs gap
Another gap that I’m concerned about, although I think it could be partially a result of the top not being totally in place, is the gap at the front where the header panel meets the WS frame. With the factory metal header panel I’m not concerned about bending but fiberglass will only bend so much and age doesn’t help that at all. On test fit I put a 3/8” spacer on each bolt to help get an idea of what may be needed to seal up. Based on the weatherstrip fitment to the top I think it will seal without issue but will look pretty funky with that big of a gap though.
I intend on contacting Gozzard to get their thoughts on the situation and how best to proceed, but I have to admit for the cost involved it’s pretty disappointing to potentially be cutting one up this much.
Some other weird issues that some may want to know but I don’t see it being a problem is a funky bend in the front of the top and some gaps on the sides pictured below. The front upward sweep makes me think of a baseball cap for some reason.
Another gap that I’m concerned about, although I think it could be partially a result of the top not being totally in place, is the gap at the front where the header panel meets the WS frame. With the factory metal header panel I’m not concerned about bending but fiberglass will only bend so much and age doesn’t help that at all. On test fit I put a 3/8” spacer on each bolt to help get an idea of what may be needed to seal up. Based on the weatherstrip fitment to the top I think it will seal without issue but will look pretty funky with that big of a gap though.
I intend on contacting Gozzard to get their thoughts on the situation and how best to proceed, but I have to admit for the cost involved it’s pretty disappointing to potentially be cutting one up this much.
Some other weird issues that some may want to know but I don’t see it being a problem is a funky bend in the front of the top and some gaps on the sides pictured below. The front upward sweep makes me think of a baseball cap for some reason.
Last bit of pictures just for some to see, including one of the hot rod that I’ve shared workspace with this week. Who knew someone out there would actually want to restore a Ford Pinto(?!) 
. Turns out one box of Dynamat will cover the interior of the top as well.
. Turns out one box of Dynamat will cover the interior of the top as well.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #31
Great info, thanks a ton for taking the time.
I’ll still have to read more closely. But, do you think if the top were ordered without the predrilled holes with rivnuts, that you could line up the top exactly how you wanted it…and would solve most of the issues you are seeing? Or are the problems a result of the shape of the top not being quite right?
I’ll still have to read more closely. But, do you think if the top were ordered without the predrilled holes with rivnuts, that you could line up the top exactly how you wanted it…and would solve most of the issues you are seeing? Or are the problems a result of the shape of the top not being quite right?
@Curtice
I think you could put them where you want to and it would be more helpful but I’m afraid that you may run out of room on the LH side. Keep in mind the top curves in to meet the side and if you’ll look at the picture where the end of the connector is in comparison to the edge of the top, you may not be able to get a bolt or nut through there well enough.
The issue of the headed panel being too short is most likely not easily overcome. I may end up having to make an intermediate panel to attach them together.
I think you could put them where you want to and it would be more helpful but I’m afraid that you may run out of room on the LH side. Keep in mind the top curves in to meet the side and if you’ll look at the picture where the end of the connector is in comparison to the edge of the top, you may not be able to get a bolt or nut through there well enough.
The issue of the headed panel being too short is most likely not easily overcome. I may end up having to make an intermediate panel to attach them together.
Curtice
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- #33
Ok, so your two biggest problems (just to make sure I follow):
1) The front is too narrow. Meaning from back to front, it tapers inward so much on the drivers side such that the bolt hole near the windshield frame is lined up too close to the outer edge of the cap.
2) the header over the windshield is too short. Do you mean too short as in length (right to left) or height (bottom to top)?
Would it be helpful for someone to take measurements of an OEM cap to compare anything? I have one, although it currently has no rain gutter.
(Part of the reason I am considering Gozzard is that I’m not relishing all the work to redo this old top).
1) The front is too narrow. Meaning from back to front, it tapers inward so much on the drivers side such that the bolt hole near the windshield frame is lined up too close to the outer edge of the cap.
2) the header over the windshield is too short. Do you mean too short as in length (right to left) or height (bottom to top)?
Would it be helpful for someone to take measurements of an OEM cap to compare anything? I have one, although it currently has no rain gutter.
(Part of the reason I am considering Gozzard is that I’m not relishing all the work to redo this old top).
1) the whole front tapering isn’t too narrow, only the driver’s side where it tapers in from behind the door to the windshield frame. The passenger side is pretty good from what I’ve seen so far, which is why I think it’s made wrong.
2) The header is too short in reference to the height, it doesn’t come down far enough to drill holes that will have enough bite on the washer to properly spread out the load when bolted down. The two outside holes aren’t covered at all anymore. I don’t have a good picture to show this right now but I will get one this week.
I have the original that came off mine so I shouldn’t need any measurements for now. The reasons you’re considering their top are the same as what I went through in terms of time and effort to fix what I have. I will be sending an email to Gozzard today or tomorrow depending on when I get home and will update on the response.
2) The header is too short in reference to the height, it doesn’t come down far enough to drill holes that will have enough bite on the washer to properly spread out the load when bolted down. The two outside holes aren’t covered at all anymore. I don’t have a good picture to show this right now but I will get one this week.
I have the original that came off mine so I shouldn’t need any measurements for now. The reasons you’re considering their top are the same as what I went through in terms of time and effort to fix what I have. I will be sending an email to Gozzard today or tomorrow depending on when I get home and will update on the response.
Just thinking…
Have you taken any diagonal measurements of both the top and the 40? As to see if everything is square. From screw hole to screw hole. With everything bolted together, it should show what may be out of wack.
Speaking from past experience.
Have you taken any diagonal measurements of both the top and the 40? As to see if everything is square. From screw hole to screw hole. With everything bolted together, it should show what may be out of wack.
Speaking from past experience.
Curtice
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- #36
Hm. Yes, very interested in what Gozzard says. Very odd that they would have a pre-defined mold/template for a top that is so off in several ways. Surely they would have run into this by now. The short front header issue is weird and disappointing. And if one side tapers at a different angle than another?...that is super frustrating.
Is your 40 all original? Since I am using an aftermarket tub and had fitment/alignment issues, I maybe wouldn't be surprised to find that things are off on mine. But wouldn't expect it on an all original one.
Is your 40 all original? Since I am using an aftermarket tub and had fitment/alignment issues, I maybe wouldn't be surprised to find that things are off on mine. But wouldn't expect it on an all original one.
@coinoperated40 I haven’t taken any diagonal measurements but I will. It would seem that if it’s not square then the other sides of the panel wouldn’t look as uniform in relation to the sides as they do though? Not sure if it’s clear in the pictures above but every other part to the top runs evenly parallel to the sides except for where the LH connector goes.
@Curtice I’m wondering if there’s an option for the header panels that I didn’t know about/wasn’t asked similar to what was discussed above about options for the top that aren’t listed on the website description (offering to cut out for the windshield wiper arms, rivnuts, etc.). That would seem most logical to me but doesn’t really help my situation at this point. In reference to being original tub: unless someone painted it a long time ago it’s still wearing it’s factory paint job. I have no reason to suspect that it isn’t the original tub or hard top panels.
@Curtice I’m wondering if there’s an option for the header panels that I didn’t know about/wasn’t asked similar to what was discussed above about options for the top that aren’t listed on the website description (offering to cut out for the windshield wiper arms, rivnuts, etc.). That would seem most logical to me but doesn’t really help my situation at this point. In reference to being original tub: unless someone painted it a long time ago it’s still wearing it’s factory paint job. I have no reason to suspect that it isn’t the original tub or hard top panels.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #38
bump for @southern son - just wondering if you have had any dialogue. Hopefully you are getting some answers.
They have been responding to my emails asking questions about a possible purchase and shipping, but I'm not going to do anything until I know how things worked out with you.
They have been responding to my emails asking questions about a possible purchase and shipping, but I'm not going to do anything until I know how things worked out with you.
Sorry for the lack of updates, I did talk to Mike earlier in the week. I was waiting until I, hopefully, had a good resolution to what was going on and could present all the information together. He was super nice and very helpful when I spoke to him.
Mike says that the riveted frames can flex and become out of square due to the general “use” these trucks tend to have had over the years. He says the frame flex and the way the body panels are fit together is how Toyota was able to get these the flex the way they do. He thinks that my frame is a bit out of square causing the windshield frame to be shifted through the body, so his recommendation was to “gently” run it into a fence post to push things back into alignment which should fix my issue. He gave me a few places to take measurements from on each side that will help me assess how far out it may be. My 40 is mostly original and not restored so doing this doesn’t make me that uncomfortable - I did laugh when he said that. I couldn’t imagine doing this to a freshly restored 40 though…
Mike initially thought it was an issue with old body mounts causing it but after I sent him the pictures and we talked through what I was seeing he felt like that wasn’t my issue. He was pretty clear that he didn’t think it was a mould issue however but said to let him know how this goes and we will proceed from there for what’s needed.
I pushed back a bit referencing how the other sides are fitting well outside of this section but he felt confident this was my issue. They’ve built more 40’s than I have so I’m certainly willing to try what he says and will let y’all know how it goes.
Mike says that the riveted frames can flex and become out of square due to the general “use” these trucks tend to have had over the years. He says the frame flex and the way the body panels are fit together is how Toyota was able to get these the flex the way they do. He thinks that my frame is a bit out of square causing the windshield frame to be shifted through the body, so his recommendation was to “gently” run it into a fence post to push things back into alignment which should fix my issue. He gave me a few places to take measurements from on each side that will help me assess how far out it may be. My 40 is mostly original and not restored so doing this doesn’t make me that uncomfortable - I did laugh when he said that. I couldn’t imagine doing this to a freshly restored 40 though…
Mike initially thought it was an issue with old body mounts causing it but after I sent him the pictures and we talked through what I was seeing he felt like that wasn’t my issue. He was pretty clear that he didn’t think it was a mould issue however but said to let him know how this goes and we will proceed from there for what’s needed.
I pushed back a bit referencing how the other sides are fitting well outside of this section but he felt confident this was my issue. They’ve built more 40’s than I have so I’m certainly willing to try what he says and will let y’all know how it goes.
Curtice
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- #40
Thank you for the update and details. Lol at the fence post idea . But I guess it makes sense in a way. I've resorted to some similar tactics to get things straight at times.
Glad he is working with you and giving some ideas...knowing that there is good, responsive service is nice. Definitely want to hear how it turns out.
. But I guess it makes sense in a way. I've resorted to some similar tactics to get things straight at times. Glad he is working with you and giving some ideas...knowing that there is good, responsive service is nice. Definitely want to hear how it turns out.
