Wheel Offset *Specifically* (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 3, 2008
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So I know that everyone endlessly is very clear about 3.25" as the minimum back spacing for clearance especially referring to OE style steel wheels. I'm looking at going to a modern style wheel in a 17" and am trying to nail down offset. From some numbers I found online I'm looking at a +12 offset is factory? Meaning I'd need somethin about a -12 offset to clear 11.5 wide tires at least if not more, then have to make sure that the BS for whatever width I find is at most 3.25 to clear the steering knuckle. This all sound about right? I've seen others ask for offset specs as a starting point and the conversations always turn to strictly referring to BS only.
 
Backspace is the elementary way to measure a wheel. In order to effectively measure a wheel and its fitment you must understand offset, backpad, wheel width and face concavity. Now most wheels Land Cruiser guys use are steel, so back pad is usually irrelevant, however if it is cast, it plays a major part as it affects brake caliper/hub clearance. Steel wheels are just a pressed face welded into a barrel, so usually the only option you have is back space/barrel width.

You need to tell me wheel width before I can help you with offset. 3.25" back space is right though.
 
Once you go to 17's there's a bit more clearance for the calipers and TREs, so some of the hard limits on 3.25" BS can shift...they tend to be more focused on the OEM 15 or 16" wheels, which will start to run into axle components.

I'm running 8" wide 17s with zero offset (essentially 4" BS) with no issue, but I'm running 255/80/17s that are roughly 10" wide. I haven't stuffed them, but there's plenty of "day to day" clearance with the 4" BS / 0 offset. There's an old post somewhere around the fitment, but I can't find it to save the life of me. Smaller photo has spring clearance at full lock.

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Once you go to 17's there's a bit more clearance for the calipers and TREs, so some of the hard limits on 3.25" BS can shift...they tend to be more focused on the OEM 15 or 16" wheels, which will start to run into axle components.

I'm running 8" wide 17s with zero offset (essentially 4" BS) with no issue, but I'm running 255/80/17s that are roughly 10" wide. I haven't stuffed them, but there's plenty of "day to day" clearance with the 4" BS / 0 offset. There's an old post somewhere around the fitment, but I can't find it to save the life of me. Smaller photo has spring clearance at full lock.


Thanks I'm going to have to do a deep dive an draw a chart when I go through the process. Planning on running 35"s so I'm either going to have to go crazy offset or do a coilover with linked front. Be nice to keep them factory but oh well. It doesn't take me much to design and layout a linked setup anyways and it will ride and flex a 1000x better. I'd much rather keep the tires as close to the fender lines as possible especially on the full body 45LV. I just ordered a cheap steelie set of 17"s to start with.
 
Thanks I'm going to have to do a deep dive an draw a chart when I go through the process. Planning on running 35"s so I'm either going to have to go crazy offset or do a coilover with linked front. Be nice to keep them factory but oh well. It doesn't take me much to design and layout a linked setup anyways and it will ride and flex a 1000x better. I'd much rather keep the tires as close to the fender lines as possible especially on the full body 45LV. I just ordered a cheap steelie set of 17"s to start with.

Depending on what you are looking for, US Wheel makes a ton of diffrent steelies, and you can get custom offsets. A high offset could help you keep everything relatively stock, but a linked front is a great addition. I love mine.
 

Vision D Window 84 Wheel 17x8 6x5.5 (6x139.7) Black -12mm Offset

So with these on a 35x11.5R17 Nitto they barely grab the leaf spring at full crank. It can probably easily be addressed with extending the turning stop. But with this size for full turning radius a -18 offset would be perfect. Wheels clear the tie rods perfectly.

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Vision D Window 84 Wheel 17x8 6x5.5 (6x139.7) Black -12mm Offset

So with these on a 35x11.5R17 Nitto they barely grab the leaf spring at full crank. It can probably easily be addressed with extending the turning stop. But with this size for full turning radius a -18 offset would be perfect. Wheels clear the tie rods perfectly.

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I think we all care more about that double cab LV truck you're building. Are you documenting this build anywhere so we can follow along. Looks bitchin!!!
 
Tell us more about that cab. Reminds me of something out of Cuba where they mash together what they’ve got left from the 50s to make working vehicles. Those doors have got to have a good story.
 
So I seen it off and on here a couple times through the years. During Covid it popped up on Ebay one day when I was just goofing around. BTB had picked it up with plans to build it but after it sitting for awhile they just listed it on Ebay. Well I got lucky imo and stole it. I'd been looking for a 43 since I already have a LV sitting in the yard I have to restore cause I owe my brother a Land Cruiser. My affection for FJ's began when my first daily was my brother's '74 FJ40 hunting rig. Caught a ditch one day with the passenger side tire and rolled it twisting the frame totaling it. Always wanted to build one some day to repay him for ruining a perfectly good rig. So 30 some years later I'll be building this for him to have and run on his ranch. I'll definitely be starting a thread when I start getting dirty on it. Only parts I have sourced so far were disc brakes and the wheel/tire combo. Once I get it to a roller I can really get with it and go for broke.

Esthetically it looks absolutely perfect proportions wise. In reality the rear seating area is extremely tight. Especially since my brother is 6'4" and I'll have to make it where the front bench can slide way back. I'm pretty sure I'll end up modifying an extended cab 40/60 that can fold up. Bed wise it can go 10 different ways. I have an aluminum flat bed out back off an '84 Ranger diesel. I'll throw that on at some point and see how it looks. In the end no clue if I'll just run that, have a custom Highway Products bed made, or modify an OE bed to fit. As for the conversion as it sits I have no idea how or why is was done, but love and will take on the task of finishing it.
 

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