New clutch not disengaging (1 Viewer)

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mudgudgeon

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I've recently had the engine out of my fzj80, and fitted a new clutch kit while it was out.
Old clutch still had some life in it, but pedal feel was deteriorating, and I'd had some slipping offroad.
I'd previously adjusted the pedal position, and pushrod adjustment etc as per the FSM. Push rod was engaged by about 1 thread only on the clevis adjusting nut which was clearly not right.

Old pressure plate and fly wheel had some minor hot spotting, but both were in pretty good shape considering they have 250k km on them.

I fitted a new OEM master cylinder, and new OEM slave cylinder, and had fly wheel ground too. Fitted a new exedy HD clutch (can't remember which version)

Bled everything thoroughly. Adjusted the clutch pedal position, and push rod adjustment. The new push rod clevis also only has about 1 full thread engaged on the rod! Odd!!

After reinstalling the engine, the clutch would not disengage at all.
Could not select a gear at all. And there was no resistance at the clutch pedal at all.

After some digging, I find that two different throw out bearings where used with the 1FZ / H151 combo in 80 series. One being ¼ to ⅜" longer than the other. I still don't know why, or which models used the different bearings.

Seeing as I would have to pull the gearbox out in my garage, I
decided to replace the throw out bearing with the longer one, and replace the clutch fork and pivot ball.
I hate throwing parts at a problem, but didn't want to repeat pulling the gearbox on my back, under the car in the garage.

The bearing supplied with my clutch kit was the shorter one, and appears correct when searching part numbers using my VIN.

The old clutch fork and pivot seemed to be fine when compared to the new ones. New parts were fitted.

bolted gearbox back in. And can now feel some resistance at the pedal, so clutch is engaging/disengaging. I still can't quite engage a gear with the engine running. So the engine, and engage first, i can due the engine up, and the vehicle wants to creep forward. So clutch is not quite disengaging fully!! Grrrrr!

I re-bled the clutch. Re-checked pedal adjustment, and no change!

I've read elsewhere that the push rod clevis can sometimes be pinned in the wrong hole in the clutch pedal. My pedal only has one hole.

I've looked at the over centre spring loaded lever arrangement on the clutch pedal, and have come to the conclusion that it is there to assist with depressing the clutch pedal to make the clutch feel lighter.
I played with this with the master cylinder out, it clearly pulls the pedal to the floor once you get past about ¼ pedal travel.
My HDJ81 had a boosted church, and didn't not have the over centre lever arrangement on the pedal.
I'm thinking I'll take the over centre assist thingamajig off, see if that makes a difference. My big foot don't need help with depressing a clutch!

I'll also bleed everything AGAIN!

At this point, I'm kind of at a loss as to what the issue is.

I've ordered new pins and bushes for the clutch pedal assembly.
I think its odd that both the old and new master cylinder push rod clevis only gets 1 thread engagement on the rod when pedal position is adjusted.
It's like the leverage ratio on the pedal is wrong.

The only thing I can think of at this point is that the bushings in the pedal pivot are worn and affecting the throw on the pedal. Or the clutch pedal bracket on the fire wall is bent?

I'd love someone to tell me I've missed something simple, right now I'm clutching at straws (pardon the punny).
 
Did the new slave come with a new pushrod? I have had issues with that pushrod being too short on many different Toyotas over the years. I would also compare the length of the master cylinder push rod form the old setup to the new one you bought and make sure they are the same length. It sounds like that one is too short. It does sound fishy that you only have 1 thread of engagement on the pushrod. Is the new setup boosted ?
 
New master has a new pushrod attached. I did compare them, they seem the same.
Both old and new only had one thread of engagement.

Clutch is not boosted.
 
I think the push rod length is a red herring, not the issue. Pedal adjustment seems correct per FSM, just, to get there the clevis is screwed all the way out
 
Did you bench bleed the new master? If there is no air in the system then one of your pushrods is either too short or improperly adjusted. It is a fairly simple assembly . Is the clutch pedal rod touching the inside of the master cylinder piston? I would tend to ignore the pedal height adjustment until you get the clutch to engage properly
 
Is it possible too much was taken off of the flywheel, bearing in mind it may have been skimmed in the past? This would in effect move the clutch assembly further away from the thrust bearing. If you can start the engine in gear and it is not quite clearing you could put in a longer rod to compensate for the distance increase between the clutch assembly.

Also have someone check how much the clutch pedal moves down before the push rod starts to move, there could be a clue there?


Regards

Dave
 
Is it possible too much was taken off of the flywheel, bearing in mind it may have been skimmed in the past? This would in effect move the clutch assembly further away from the thrust bearing. If you can start the engine in gear and it is not quite clearing you could put in a longer rod to compensate for the distance increase between the clutch assembly.

Also have someone check how much the clutch pedal moves down before the push rod starts to move, there could be a clue there?


Regards

Dave
I did wonder that, but based on condition of existing clutch and flywheel, and other elements of this vehicle, I would guess both were original. No real way to know that for sure though. Fly wheel shouldn't have needed much at all taken off it to tidy it up

I did think about extending the pushrod, at least to see if I can get enough pedal travel to make it work.
 
I did wonder that, but based on condition of existing clutch and flywheel, and other elements of this vehicle, I would guess both were original. No real way to know that for sure though. Fly wheel shouldn't have needed much at all taken off it to tidy it up

I did think about extending the pushrod, at least to see if I can get enough pedal travel to make it work.

Possible, if the clutch plate is in the right way around which IIRC when I done my own car it would only fit one way? I would do the tests I mentioned and see what the results are.

Regards

Dave
 
Possible, if the clutch plate is in the right way around which IIRC when I done my own car it would only fit one way? I would do the tests I mentioned and see what the results are.

Regards

Dave
Yeah, it's a good few weeks since I put the clutch in.
The clutch plate has different material on both faces, and I remember looking in the kit for instructions for which way the clutch plate should be, found none, then quicky realised the clutch plate only went in one way.

It'll be a few more weeks until I'm home and able to have another look at any of it.

It's got me wondering if swapping to a hydraulic throw out bearing would be better, but don't want to deal with cobbling together non standard parts, and trial and error.
 
It's got me wondering if swapping to a hydraulic throw out bearing would be better, but don't want to deal with cobbling together non standard parts, and trial and error.
Agreed, the good thing about a manual gearbox is you don't really need a clutch release to drive it, but trying to do that on a rough trail could be challenging.

Regards

Dave
 
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Sounds like the slave to me, it’s not moving enough to disengage the clutch. If I am concerned this could be an issue, I would get under the Cruiser while someone pushes the clutch pedal and watch the slave rod move.

The throw out bearings could be that it’s wrong or installed wrong. I have seen a lot of differences in Cruiser t/o bearings in terms of length. I don’t think taking to much off the flywheel would do this. I don’t think the issue has anything to do with the pedal. Maybe the master if it is wrong but unlikely. There is a rubber line, is it in good condition? Rubber lines can swell when old and worn out. Doubt that’s it too. Slave is simply not giving the throw you need.

Cheers
 
No experience with manual tranny in an 80. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, didn't off that to us Americans. However, I do know that this is a common symptom on the 60 when the disc is put in backwards.
 
Yeah, it's a good few weeks since I put the clutch in.
The clutch plate has different material on both faces, and I remember looking in the kit for instructions for which way the clutch plate should be, found none, then quicky realised the clutch plate only went in one way.

It'll be a few more weeks until I'm home and able to have another look at any of it.

It's got me wondering if swapping to a hydraulic throw out bearing would be better, but don't want to deal with cobbling together non standard parts, and trial and error.
With a new clutch master and slave, are there multiple models of master and slave? It is possible that the bore of the master does not match properly with the bore of the slave (Maybe the master of one version and the slave of another) so that the slave is larger in diameter so it has more force, but less travel. Maybe you need a slave that is smaller in diameter to get more travel. Maybe a LD version instead of an HD version?

Only aware of this from my old car and truck builds I've done in the past and had to do the volume math to determine proper slave throw needed for my application. (Old Chevy K10)
 
With a new clutch master and slave, are there multiple models of master and slave? It is possible that the bore of the master does not match properly with the bore of the slave (Maybe the master of one version and the slave of another) so that the slave is larger in diameter so it has more force, but less travel. Maybe you need a slave that is smaller in diameter to get more travel. Maybe a LD version instead of an HD version?

Only aware of this from my old car and truck builds I've done in the past and had to do the volume math to determine proper slave throw needed for my application. (Old Chevy K10)

Yeah, this is looking like a possibility.
I checked my parts orders.
Ordered the slave 18 months ago, is for '92-'98.
Master is for '98-'07.

Have ordered up the later slave to see if that changes anything.
 

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