No CEL - MAF Tear Down - No Start - EB1 Faulty (Solved) (1 Viewer)

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I think the base cost was $320+SH for a full refurbishment.
Great! And thanks. They are fairly close to me in the Bay Area!
 
Great! And thanks. They are fairly close to me in the Bay Area!
You won't be disappointed. I spoke to Greg from BavRest and he was very communicative and reassured me that they fix plenty of Toyota AFMs.
 
Haven't had a chance to put it. Truck is a weekend vehicle, so no rush. Was going to try this weekend if time permits.
 
Ok back at it today. It wasn't the maf. Can I pull engine codes without the cel on? Without a code reader that is, or can I go to autozone and rent one?
 
You need to jumper the diagnostic box in your engine bay. Look at the passenger side. I think it’s E1 and TE1. You can use a paper clip. Look it up and there are YouTube vids and plenty of info in this forum.

If your CEL flashes fast then it means no stored codes.

Otherwise if you have a code, count the number of flashes and look up the specific code
 
I tried jumping it, but no cel flash? Starting fuel system check today.
 
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1. Replaced MAF, still no CEL/ Start
2. Replaced EFI 15A, still no CEL/ Start
3. Replaced EFI Relay, still no CEL/ Start
4. Replaced +/- terminals, still no CEL/ Start
5. Replaced all grounds, still no CEL/ Start
6. Replaced fusible link, still no CEL/ Start
7. Replaced +/- battery cables, no CEL/ Start

Will crank strong, won't turn over.

Possible: ignition coil module, alarm interference, and last but not least - a short.
 
Just a suggestion, but have you checked to make sure that the CEL bulb in the dash isn't burn out????? since it isn't turning on?????
 
The following info was written up by mud member NLXTACY.

Quote:
There are 4 screw to remove the plastic panel where your knees are. Then the piece that sits above the steering wheel can then be removed without using any tools. From there you will remove 2 screws for the black instrument bezel. That bezel you need to be gentle with and the trick is to remove it from the TOP first. Once out you can see the 4 tabs and 4 screws holding in those tabs. Take those out and the cluster can be taken out. Now...to remove the cluster you need to lie the cluster on its back, then reach your hand behind and unclick the tabs holding each of the three sockets. One blue, one brown and one white. Each is a different size and therefore impossible to get them pushed into the wrong hole. Once you disconnect each connector you can then pull the cluster out. Be careful not to scratch or drop the cluster. Bad things happen.

What I recommend is to remove all the circular light tabs and check for burned out lights. Then for the center section you just need to depress the tabs on both sides and pull the center section up. Kinda tricky at first.
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CEL Bulb is fine, still can't pull codes, but can confirm that the CEL is working, I jumped the diagnostic port and the cel was blinking rapid, no codes stored.

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Update, I got it started but its cutting out really bad and this thing is making noise??

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That is the PAIR valve. The noise is perfectly normal when the engine revs then drops back to idle.
 
That is the internal reed valve opening and closing injecting air into the exhaust system. Not a problem.
 
So the CEL keeps appearing and dissappear intermittently. What I noticed is that when I unplug this (picture below), and plug it back in, it starts up again. Still idle is crap and has no power when I drive it, it dies when I come to a stop sign still.

Also, I hear noise coming from the fuel pressure regulator and when I feel the hose (lots of pressure in the fuel tank when I open it), I can feel fuel pumping through (picture below), is this normal?

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:popcorn:
 
So the CEL keeps appearing and dissappear intermittently. What I noticed is that when I unplug this (picture below), and plug it back in, it starts up again. Still idle is crap and has no power when I drive it, it dies when I come to a stop sign still.

Also, I hear noise coming from the fuel pressure regulator and when I feel the hose (lots of pressure in the fuel tank when I open it), I can feel fuel pumping through (picture below), is this normal?

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That first picture looks like a cracked distributor housing. Time to remove the distributor cap and get better pictures.

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