Help with freshly rebuilt engine (1 Viewer)

[EstuLC]

Hello guys and girls. I have a '92 cruiser, got the engine rebuilt and it runs good. The issue is that it iddles good when cold and crappy when it reaches its normal temp. I just did the 1k mile oil change and the shop that installed the engine, put new sparkplugs and likely the same cap and rotor and wires. I wasn't happy with their work so I'm not going back. Anyway, I replaced the cats 02 sensors and no change. I want to get new cables, cap and rotor next but I wanted to ask you guys recommendation since I'm new and have little experience with cruisers. Also I'll get the OEM spark plugs that some mechanic recommended to get. Someone also recommended to use 505 CRF to get the injectors cleaned up added to a full tank of gas. TIA

 

[jonheld]

General Tech - 3FE Tune Up Info

3FE Tune Up Info

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Pin_Head]

Define “crappy”. This isn’t enough information to be useful.

 

[EstuLC]

Define “crappy”. This isn’t enough information to be useful.

Lol sorry, it seems to have a missfire. Sometimes the hesitation is stronger to mild. I'd like to start with the wires, dist cap and rotor as well as spark plugs and go from there. I just don't know if there is a better aftermarket parts I can get before I buy from the stealership. Thanks

 

[Pin_Head]

MIL (Check engine light) on? Misfiring should set a code telling you which cylinder is implicated.

 

[EstuLC]

MIL (Check engine light) on? Misfiring should set a code telling you which cylinder is implicated.

The check engine light is off. One time it came on but it went away and hasn't turned on for a while.

 

[robnicko]

check the coolant temp sensor. there are 2, one for the ECU & one for the dash gauge
The coolant temp sensor for the ECU control;s warm up enrichment & normal operating temp fuel maps once coolant reaches a certain temp (1fzfe is around 65degrees i think) Im not sure with the 3F sorry but presume it would be similar

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Sorry if this is insulting, I don't know just where your knowledge level is,. The spark plugs are Denso OEM, makes no difference if they come in a Toyota box or a Denso box. Most people here (including me) prefer to run Denso or NGK only, both are fine, others can be less so. For distributor cap, rotor and wires, I strongly prefer OEM, Toyota, if your local dealer is hard to get along with (mine charges "matrix" pricing for example, and I have to ask them nicely to discount down to list) there are several vendors here on Mud who can help, or some Toyota dealers sell online at discounted prices. I don't have a 3FE, so I'm sure others will be far more help,. I would do new plugs, wires, cap and rotor on a rebuild anyway, but I'm not sure your symptoms of fine when cold but "crappy" when hot really point to them.

Good luck !

Jason

 

[Pin_Head]

Running poorly after warming up is often due to unmetered air in the plenum, like a vacuum leak. Check for disconnected hoses and vacuum leaks at manifold connections first. It could also be a bad air flow meter.

 

[EstuLC]

Sorry if this is insulting, I don't know just where your knowledge level is,. The spark plugs are Denso OEM, makes no difference if they come in a Toyota box or a Denso box. Most people here (including me) prefer to run Denso or NGK only, both are fine, others can be less so. For distributor cap, rotor and wires, I strongly prefer OEM, Toyota, if your local dealer is hard to get along with (mine charges "matrix" pricing for example, and I have to ask them nicely to discount down to list) there are several vendors here on Mud who can help, or some Toyota dealers sell online at discounted prices. I don't have a 3FE, so I'm sure others will be far more help,. I would do new plugs, wires, cap and rotor on a rebuild anyway, but I'm not sure your symptoms of fine when cold but "crappy" when hot really point to them.

Good luck !

Jason

Thanks, not insulting at all. I'm fairly new to the 3FE and the shop who did the engine work probably did/didn't do something that I'm missing. I will order the wires, rotor and cap from the stealership. I'm also having issues with the alt. I'm actually looking for a local mechanic that I can handle the keys and do his thing. I'm frustrated mostly because I have put a lot of $ into the car and still doesn't run like I need to and I don't mind paying whatever to get it running properly. Thanks again for the help.

 

[flintknapper]

Running poorly after warming up is often due to unmetered air in the plenum, like a vacuum leak. Check for disconnected hoses and vacuum leaks at manifold connections first. It could also be a bad air flow meter.

^^^^^

This. Start looking here.

 

[EstuLC]

Update: Went ahead and replaced spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor and now it idles somewhat rough when cold. It used to idle smoother before I replaced the parts and they are all OEM from the stealership. Also, I had a bad clunking noise and it was bad when turning to the right. Turns out the steering bar tie rod ends are bad, making the bar to hit the cross bar metal to metal. I will update when I replace the tie rod ends and report back. I guess the next thing would be replacing the MAF but if you guys can recommend anything I'd appreciate it. I can get a reman and the one my cruiser has right now, it looks newish since its clean, any way to test the MAF? TIA

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Have you been able to check the other things mentioned above, look for vacuum or air leaks, the temp sensor ? If it is worse now that you have been in replacing plugs, wires, etc., that may be a sign it is something you moved / disturbed while you were in there. May be a clue.

Good luck,

Jason

 

[EstuLC]

Have you been able to check the other things mentioned above, look for vacuum or air leaks, the temp sensor ? If it is worse now that you have been in replacing plugs, wires, etc., that may be a sign it is something you moved / disturbed while you were in there. May be a clue.

Good luck,

Jason

So before it run good when cold but maybe because the auto choke kicked in making it running in a higher rpm. Now it runs like whe it did when hot. Like a misfire but now it runs all the same when cold and hot. I really didn't touch anything that I could have disconnected or disturbed I think. Regarding the vacuum lines, I will replace most of them just in case but I hqve checked most of them and there is no cracks in them. I think the engine may be running too rich so tomorrow I will open up the MAF and mess with it, making it leaner 2 clicks just like a fellow on this website did and apparently it worked for him. I can also replace the temp sensor but I'm going to play with the MAF carefully and will report back.

 

[Dave 2000]

With a can of WD40 or similar and the engine hot give little sprays around the various intake areas, air filter trunking, vac hoses, inlet manifold and so forth. WD40 if hot enough will ignite so don't go mad and have a extinguisher to hand just in case. And of course check base timing.

You also mentioned you saw the MIL light come up and go back out, I would read the codes anyway to see if that gives you a clue, Those plugs look a little anemic as well indicating a weak mixture.


Regards

Dave

 

[musthave]

What @Pin_Head said. Until you go through all of that, you will be chasing down rabbit holes that probably won’t matter.

 

[Irish Reiver]

@EstuLC I'm not very familiar with the 3FE but if all you did was change out the plug leads/Rotor and Dizzy cap then you likely had to remove the air intake hose. Have you checked that for splits/leaks. The intake hose on the later IFZ-FE engine is known to crack around the articulation area which is a source for unmetered air.

 

[Amateurarboris]

I had a somewhat similar issue but in my case (1fz) I had an injector that wasn't hooked up properly (loose wire) so it was intermitantly grounding out and pumping fuel all the time and it steadily got worse. In my case it came with a very rich smell and when it got worse fuel actually started leaking out exhaust manifold gasket and quickly became a fire hazard.

 

[EstuLC]

@EstuLC I'm not very familiar with the 3FE but if all you did was change out the plug leads/Rotor and Dizzy cap then you likely had to remove the air intake hose. Have you checked that for splits/leaks. The intake hose on the later IFZ-FE engine is known to crack around the articulation area which is a source for unmetered air.

Hello, I actually didn't want to undo anything else since I'm looking for answers and I thought it'd be harder if I mess with anything else so you'll need a lot of patience but I did without removing the intake hose. I also checked for bad wire connections and vacuum leaks and nothing. I want to mess with the MAF and also replace the gas filter since I haven't done yet. All injectors appear to working/clicking. The temp sensor is working because you can see a change from cold and hot. I'll keep looking for stuff.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Just throwing this out there, but everything that has been suggested above is easier, simpler and safer than opening up and tweaking the VAF which is rarely an issue... unless it has been opened up and messed with. You feel it is running rich, but the plugs don't show that, although they were not in for very long. What is up with the first plug on the left ? I can't seem to actually see the insulator or electrode....

Just be careful with that VAF or you could very well end up needed a new one.

Jason