Whoa, nice! How big a battery can you fit with that? Looks like another 27f? And are there good deep cycle options in that size or similar?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (62 Viewers)
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those are 24f. I think maybe the 27 came with cold climate or something? I'm not sure. There's at least 1.5 -2 inches more room on both mine side to side. Passenger side would need to move the daytime running light relay to use that extra 2 inches.
I'm not up on all the deep cycle battery info for winches and fridges etc. This was my first step toward that goal. I wanted to go halfway before I committed that kind of money, this was 400 all in. Not including supranut's vvti bluesea mount.
@mdcoa
I'm not up on all the deep cycle battery info for winches and fridges etc. This was my first step toward that goal. I wanted to go halfway before I committed that kind of money, this was 400 all in. Not including supranut's vvti bluesea mount.
@mdcoa
Had my Prospeed rack for a few months now and finally got around to mounting my ski rack. It was both complicated and simple. I have a Yakima FatCat rack and they sell a mounting kit for t-slot racks, but it isn't the right size for the Prospeed/Prinsu/etc... side t-slot: SmarT-Slot Kit 2 - https://yakima.com/products/smart-slot-kit-2. I didn't realize this til after I ordered this kit, but I still needed this kit to create space between the roof and the rack so that the ski bindings aren't rubbing the roof. You don't need this kit, you just need some spacers to provide clearance or if you only have 2 sets of skis, you can just have them sitting upright so that the bindings face up only. With the Yakima kit it does have plastic nubs on the bottom of the spacer that is supposed to fit into the trough. Since they were too wide, I simply cut them off.
To mount the ski rack to the crossbar, I ordered several of the locking drop in t-nuts: (DB-010) Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball | TNUTZ | TNUTZ - https://www.tnutz.com/product/db-010/ along with some https://www.tnutz.com/product/imperial-button-head/ that were 1 3/4" long and matching 1/4-20 thread. It turns out this was too long. I think 1 1/2" would be better, but it's not really a big deal.
So my first attempt I reused the washer that came with the rack, but the screw was way too long so the rack moved around. I dropped by Home Depot and picked up some galvanized nuts and additional washer. So I just screwed the nut in first, then the washers and into the t-nut. After tightening the screw to the t-nut, I used a socket wrench to tighten the nut to the washer so it was a solid mount.
Compared to the OEM roof rack with the same ski rack, it's definitely lower profile, so the bindings are closer to the roof. Here it's not touching, but really really close. As long as I have our kids skis in first and my skis on the outside, there's sufficient clearance because the roof isn't flat and bulges in the middle.
Here's the final shot (without skis) showing how low profile it stays:
I'm thinking of mounting my recover boards on the other side since the ski rack doesn't take up all the space. However, do people just leave the recover boards on top year-round? I take my skis in, but it would be a hassle to take the boards in and out often.
To mount the ski rack to the crossbar, I ordered several of the locking drop in t-nuts: (DB-010) Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball | TNUTZ | TNUTZ - https://www.tnutz.com/product/db-010/ along with some https://www.tnutz.com/product/imperial-button-head/ that were 1 3/4" long and matching 1/4-20 thread. It turns out this was too long. I think 1 1/2" would be better, but it's not really a big deal.
So my first attempt I reused the washer that came with the rack, but the screw was way too long so the rack moved around. I dropped by Home Depot and picked up some galvanized nuts and additional washer. So I just screwed the nut in first, then the washers and into the t-nut. After tightening the screw to the t-nut, I used a socket wrench to tighten the nut to the washer so it was a solid mount.
Compared to the OEM roof rack with the same ski rack, it's definitely lower profile, so the bindings are closer to the roof. Here it's not touching, but really really close. As long as I have our kids skis in first and my skis on the outside, there's sufficient clearance because the roof isn't flat and bulges in the middle.
Here's the final shot (without skis) showing how low profile it stays:
I'm thinking of mounting my recover boards on the other side since the ski rack doesn't take up all the space. However, do people just leave the recover boards on top year-round? I take my skis in, but it would be a hassle to take the boards in and out often.
Shoot, if you can fit a 27f (which is what my 04 has for a starting battery) in there you can get 90Ah in an AGM
X2Power BCI Group 27M 12V 90AH 930CCA AGM Deep Cycle Marine & RV Battery - SLI27AGMDPM
Buy the exclusive X2Power BCI Group 27 12-volt AGM marine and RV deep cycle battery with 90 AH capacity at Batteries Plus.
www.batteriesplus.com
Got a set of LED truck bed light strip and installed them underneath the LX and used the factory connectors so now I have lights underneath. Eventually I'll come back and wire in an ON/OFF switch to manually turn them on.
Super easy job, 1-2 banana jobber.
Super easy job, 1-2 banana jobber.
I only carry my recovery boards when I’m on a trip that might require them. Every.single.item.that.doesn’t.need.to.come.along.costs.fuel…especially on the roof.…ymmv…
nice wheels.
They were getting towards the end so I was going to need to change them out anyway, so why not try something different? Ski season is here and I wanted good boots for the Whistler highway and didn't see why I would ride the KO2s to the wear lugs - as much about peace of mind as anything. Spoke with a friend who swears by them so went for it. I am not down on the KO2s, they were perfectly good tires and never had an issue with them, but think these are better on road (even my wife noticed which is helpful as she thinks I waste too much money on my LX!). Will look forward to getting off the beaten path and see how they roll there.
@xswl Agreed. Same goes for Trasharoo, awning, etc. I store my ski racks in the garage over the summer as well. All of this stuff will last longer the less it sits in the elements, plus then you don’t have to make everything lockable and it cuts down on the overlandbro vibe in the Ace hardware parking lot.
What tires are you running. Winter tires IMO opinion make the biggest difference, especially in the icy conditions.
I have Falken Wildpeak AT3s, they grip good on snow and some icy road conditions to some extent. Like the locals in Lake Tahoe say; “if the tires rolling on snow have a crunch sound -you’re good, otherwise you’re on ice skates!”
2 months after I replaced the inner boot on a 2 year old Toyota axle on the driver side, the passenger side inner boot split, so I replaced it yesterday. It was way easier to do this the 2nd time around since I was prepared with 4 cans of brake cleaner to clean the CV. The axle almost didn't fit passed the Ironman Pro Foam shock.
On vacation for 2 weeks so I have some time to work on some things (finally).
Finished replacing the rest of my coils…ready for another 240k miles. Did a torque check on the spark plugs and found cylinder 7 was slightly loose. Checked boots on the old coils and 3 had cracks when flexing.
Also replaced the air filter and installed the ground cable kit I picked up from @Fourrunner many months ago. Didn’t understand why the block to chassis cable was so long until I put the engine cover back on.
Next up: Fluid Film
Finished replacing the rest of my coils…ready for another 240k miles. Did a torque check on the spark plugs and found cylinder 7 was slightly loose. Checked boots on the old coils and 3 had cracks when flexing.
Also replaced the air filter and installed the ground cable kit I picked up from @Fourrunner many months ago. Didn’t understand why the block to chassis cable was so long until I put the engine cover back on.
Next up: Fluid Film
Hopefully done with front hub work for a while….due to a comedy of errors/discovery learning this is, I think, my sixth hub iteration…and second steering knuckle replacement.
New genuine knuckle to replace a knuckle/spindle with marks from bearing spin.
New koyo bearings. Interestingly the genuine inner hub bearings I ordered were made in US Timkens—poor things ended up back in the US after travel to Dubai (via Japan?!?) so I sourced a koyo inner from NAPA, just to see if there's any difference in appearance/fit. The left front still has a genuine (Timken) , so we’ll see how they compare—I couldn’t tell any difference in snugness on the spindle when comparing the two on the new spindle.
New dust seal too.
Knuckle replacement much easier this time, since I didn’t destroy the LBJ threads with my ball joint puller (left the nut on).
Total time for knuckle and bearing replacement/preload adjustment/reassy was 2.5 hours. Doggone bearing race removal/replacement probably took me 30 min of that….
New genuine knuckle to replace a knuckle/spindle with marks from bearing spin.
New koyo bearings. Interestingly the genuine inner hub bearings I ordered were made in US Timkens—poor things ended up back in the US after travel to Dubai (via Japan?!?) so I sourced a koyo inner from NAPA, just to see if there's any difference in appearance/fit. The left front still has a genuine (Timken) , so we’ll see how they compare—I couldn’t tell any difference in snugness on the spindle when comparing the two on the new spindle.
New dust seal too.
Knuckle replacement much easier this time, since I didn’t destroy the LBJ threads with my ball joint puller (left the nut on).
Total time for knuckle and bearing replacement/preload adjustment/reassy was 2.5 hours. Doggone bearing race removal/replacement probably took me 30 min of that….
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Nice work!! FYI there is no discernible difference between Timken and Koyo wheel bearings for our trucks in terms of quality, performance, or lifespan
Day one on doing timing belt maintenance on my “new” 01 LX470 with 182K. Already have found some coolant leak spots that should be easily taken care of. Also starting to see some cleaning of the throttle body. I stripped my first fastener on the clutch fan nut. Keeping the garage “warm’ with my buddy heater.
Leak#1 and dirty throttle body
Leak#1 and dirty throttle body
Mind posting the torque spec for spark plugs? Was going to replace mine this weekend..
Here you go—14 pages on this. Iirc discussion settled down around 13-15 ft lbs….
Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!
TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...
forum.ih8mud.com
That road salt is brutal.
Being from Las Vegas and we don’t have to deal with this makes me rethink of how our fellow mudders who resides at the east coast mitigate this on a yearly basis. This is how the upper ball joint in just 4 days at Lake Tahoe and exposure to road salt looks like.
Being from Las Vegas and we don’t have to deal with this makes me rethink of how our fellow mudders who resides at the east coast mitigate this on a yearly basis. This is how the upper ball joint in just 4 days at Lake Tahoe and exposure to road salt looks like.
If that is a 555 branded ball joint? Those things are not painted at all and get surface rust in no time at all.
I just spent the better part of 3 days replacing front wheel bearings (including races) and new OEM brake rotors and calipers (while I’m in there, right?). Look at those races! I was actually happy to see this - I had a subtle rotational noise and vibration I could feel in the floor boards and pedals. Figured it was bearings and holy cow! Inner races were all fine but I outers were both trashed. I assume these are original with 210k miles. No records of if/when repacking was done. Looking forward to the test drive soon!
