100 Series Drawer Build (pics) (1 Viewer)

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If my googling is correct the UHMWPE is a plastic slide that the drawers run on instead of metal rails?

That's definitely an option but if I do go the route of metal ball bearing rails, how do I attach them to 1/2" plywood?

I built my main box out of 5/8" plywood and countersunk 1/2 screws to hold the UHMWPE in place for the main slides. I also put a strip along the top edge of the drawer tacked in with a brad nail to help with friction as the drawers are pulled out.

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Great stuff in this thread! I'm still at the design stage here so feel free to comment on it. (ACAD dwgs available via PM BTW).

Goals are the same as everyones I think, except for going with a single large drawer and a clear opening on the right side in order to store longer items when the 40% seat is removed. For me longer items include a pop-up tent, paddles, skis, fishing, archery gear etc.

What I have so far... (EDIT: I ended up maximizing the drawer width Item 3 was more like 27" W. The drawer slides are like 400lb capacity found here on amazon:

Amazon product ASIN B088K162CY
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I did a really similar build, I really like the magnets you used.

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I’m interested in knowing some more about this build. Do you have a cut sheet or any other plans to follow. I had the same idea to only have the one drawer and fridge slide with same idea with panel to be used on top when fridge isn’t being used.
 
Great stuff in this thread! I'm still at the design stage here so feel free to comment on it. (ACAD dwgs available via PM BTW).

Goals are the same as everyones I think, except for going with a single large drawer and a clear opening on the right side in order to store longer items when the 40% seat is removed. For me longer items include a pop-up tent, paddles, skis, fishing, archery gear etc.

What I have so far... (EDIT: I ended up maximizing the drawer width Item 3 was more like 27" W. The drawer slides are like 400lb capacity found here on amazon:

Amazon product ASIN B088K162CY
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Looks great! I like the longer wider drawer idea. I think if you can afford the slides, it is definitely useful to have the extra length in the drawer.
 
Test fit the pad today.

Anyone looking for a camping mattress, this is the Exped Megamat Duo. It's pretty sweet. 6.5 Feet long by 4.5 feet wide. With the front seats tilted forward, It fits in the 100 series perfectly.

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Does your mattress just go over the seats folded down or did you add any plywood on top to make it flatter?
 
I’m interested in knowing some more about this build. Do you have a cut sheet or any other plans to follow. I had the same idea to only have the one drawer and fridge slide with same idea with panel to be used on top when fridge isn’t being used.


I had to dig up some links, I pretty much took the plans from anouther members build. The measurements he has in one of the links are almost exactly the same as mine.

Here are the two links I used for the rear drawer set up:

Another Home-Brew Drawer System Build


(This one has his dimensions)
Drawer system questions
 
Curious how the ball bearing drawer slides work out after a few years of trail dust & grit covers them.
 
Final assembly! (almost)

Just a few things to wrap up. I purchased some 1 inch webbing to use as pulls for the wings/rear hatch.

Monstaliner turned out well. It needs a couple more days of curing and then I will see how full I can pack it!

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Sorry for the silly question, but what are your compression latches grabbing on to when closed? Is your front just sitting a little lower than the top piece, acting as a latch catch? I'm in the process of building mine (first time building anything cabinet related) and am close to the point where I need to start the front face.
 
Sorry for the silly question, but what are your compression latches grabbing on to when closed? Is your front just sitting a little lower than the top piece, acting as a latch catch? I'm in the process of building mine (first time building anything cabinet related) and am close to the point where I need to start the front face.

let me find some pics or take some new ones tomorrow for you. I routed out a small hole for the latch to catch on the underside of the top of the box. If I remember right I then used epoxy to put some metal backing in the hole so the latch wouldn’t eat up the wood
 
let me find some pics or take some new ones tomorrow for you. I routed out a small hole for the latch to catch on the underside of the top of the box. If I remember right I then used epoxy to put some metal backing in the hole so the latch wouldn’t eat up the wood
Ah I see. I just realized that I didn't really have a plan for the latch install and function, and couldn't figure out how you did yours. I found myself trying to come up with a unique solution (like you) and I thought maybe I was overcomplicating it. I also meant to ask, after having this done for a few months, is there anything you would have done differently?
 
Ah I see. I just realized that I didn't really have a plan for the latch install and function, and couldn't figure out how you did yours. I found myself trying to come up with a unique solution (like you) and I thought maybe I was overcomplicating it. I also meant to ask, after having this done for a few months, is there anything you would have done differently?
Ill second that as I am starting to build mine next weekend. Anything you would recommend or you would change?
 
Best tip I can give you is spend good money on your latches and drawer slides. Southco for the latches and Accuride for the slides... don't skimp, you can thank me later. I have a few friends that have bought the cheaper and still nice slides and they still rattle. The extra cost of the slides and latches will eliminate rattle which to me is priceless if you get into the dirt.
 
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Sorry for the silly question, but what are your compression latches grabbing on to when closed? Is your front just sitting a little lower than the top piece, acting as a latch catch? I'm in the process of building mine (first time building anything cabinet related) and am close to the point where I need to start the front face.
Sorry for the one year late reply, here are a few photos of that. I am sorry I don’t have a cut sheet or cad anything. I basically epoxied a little right angle piece after routering it out. I couldn’t fit a router in perfectly, so it’s a little ugly but it works.

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