GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
No. 2001 1HZ from abroad.
How was the cylinder head on it?
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No. 2001 1HZ from abroad.
How was the cylinder head on it?
The cushion seal under the frame sits on a curb (is that the English word?) that points upwards.Where was your leak? What was the fix?
Thanks - I'm pretty sure I have the same issue. I noticed water leaks through the corner of the windshield on the driver's (JDM) side, and drips onto my foot when it rains! I've already applied a sealer to the exterior of the frame, thinking it was getting it there, but this sounds like the same issue I have. It drips right from the corner where you rebuilt down the fuse wall and into my footwell, which has been concerning...The cushion seal under the frame sits on a curb (is that the English word?) that points upwards.
Water gets pushed under the cushion seal by the headwind, but shall run against this upward curb and escape to the sides.
About 0.8 inch of that curb had rusted away at some point and the PO had just removed it but didn't close that gap.
Please see my dedicated thread here. Post 13 has a pic of the bad spot, post 17 shows the fix.
Post in thread 'BJ73 interior restore' BJ73 interior restore - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj73-interior-restore.1269123/post-14166562
Probably not the solution you’re seeking but back in my Land Rover days I kept plastic bags in the center console and when driving in rain I would slip them over my shoes to keep them dry.Thanks - I'm pretty sure I have the same issue. I noticed water leaks through the corner of the windshield on the driver's (JDM) side, and drips onto my foot when it rains! I've already applied a sealer to the exterior of the frame, thinking it was getting it there, but this sounds like the same issue I have. It drips right from the corner where you rebuilt down the fuse wall and into my footwell, which has been concerning...
Haha, I'm less worried about my shoes and more worried about that leak reaching something electrical!Probably not the solution you’re seeking but back in my Land Rover days I kept plastic bags in the center console and when driving in rain I would slip them over my shoes to keep them dry.
There's alot to be said for putting Antifreeze in your cooling system even if you live somewhere warm where "you don't need it". My 3B from spain cooling system was completely rotten(heater core, radiator, jb weld on freeze plugs etc..) and I have no doubt it's block insides look similar. Anyone importing an older 70 series from a warm country should be concerned.No. 2001 1HZ from abroad.
This is the Landcruiser department. We are used to get our vehicles sealed; oil and water alike. Well, most time.Probably not the solution you’re seeking but back in my Land Rover days I kept plastic bags in the center console and when driving in rain I would slip them over my shoes to keep them dry.
I fear the same for my Spanish 3B. When I got it, I couldn't tell what the fluid in the cooling cycle was. Could have been anything between rusty water, old coolant or blood, sweat and tears.There's alot to be said for putting Antifreeze in your cooling system even if you live somewhere warm where "you don't need it". My 3B from spain cooling system was completely rotten(heater core, radiator, jb weld on freeze plugs etc..) and I have no doubt it's block insides look similar. Anyone importing an older 70 series from a warm country should be concerned.
If your freeze plugs start leaking or you notice JB weld on them be very careful. One of my freeze plugs had JB weld on it and it blew out on the highway. All the water blew out of my cooling system and I didn't know it. The temperature sending unit did not have any water circulating around it and it did not read hot on the gauge. I didn't know I had a problem until it started slowing down and when I pushed in the clutch the engine locked up......... Cracked head and swallowed valve seats.I fear the same for my Spanish 3B. When I got it, I couldn't tell what the fluid in the cooling cycle was. Could have been anything between rusty water, old coolant or blood, sweat and tears.
I flushed the engine, cooling cycle, radiator and heater core with fresh water, until running clear (took 200 liters), and put proper coolant. Ok, 200km later the waterpump was toast. The procedure may have freed some rust particles. Fixed that. Fingers crossed, it is not giving any issues for 8000km now.
There's alot to be said for putting Antifreeze in your cooling system even if you live somewhere warm where "you don't need it". My 3B from spain cooling system was completely rotten(heater core, radiator, jb weld on freeze plugs etc..) and I have no doubt it's block insides look similar. Anyone importing an older 70 series from a warm country should be concerned.
How'd I miss all these UAE posts? Darn my email notification settings...At your local Toyota dealership…
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Could be worse... you could be in a 3F with 10 mpg. Granted I have more horsepower than you.BJ73 broke on me tonight. First drive after a month of non-use due to heater fan being broken and waiting on parts. .................Fuel starvation.. Filter is less than 5000 miles old and I have an electric pump pushing fuel to the filter. I'll make a loop in the line tomorrow and see where the clog/problem is. It may be time to drop the tank/drain and clean. No reason for a good filter to clog so quick unless something like algae is in the tank.
Considering future engine swaps. I know there are alot of opinions on this. I care about cost, simplicity, and repairability as well as driving good enough to make it worthwhile. Sort of the dream swap for me would be a swap to a mercedes OM603 or 606 to keep it diesel, but that's a complex swap with a $3K+ engine and uncommon or have to fabricate adapter plate...... I could go to a non-electronic gas 4.3 GM v6 using a common chevy to Toyota adapter plate and use a sub $1500 engine. Probably loose 3-4 mpg compared to the 3B diesel(but cheaper fuel). Gain the complexity of spark ignition, but go with a marine intake manifold and carburetor for simplicity.
I really love diesels, but I think a 4.3 V6 with 200hp would weigh 200lb less and be a dramatic increase in performance and driveability as well as an easy fit for the engine bay. A young guy recently said to me in regards to engine swaps: "LS swaps make alot of sense, but noone wants to talk about that".. Meaning I guess "toyota purists people" don't like the idea. Well from a performance per dollar/ass pain LS swap rates high, but that engine is overkill in a 73 I think.
I'm not serious yet about any of this yet, just kicking Ideas around. I'm sort of questioning why I'm sticking with a smoky, underpowered, innefficient diesel that gets me 20mpg at best that I must watch the guages to make sure I don't burn it up at highway speed.
Did some troubleshooting. It's not the pump or the fuel filter. I either have an air leak in the line, or my guage is off and my fuel tank is empty even though it shows a little less than 1/4. I'll dump a few more gallons of fuel in it tomorrow and test.Could be worse... you could be in a 3F with 10 mpg. Granted I have more horsepower than you.
I sold a LJ73 to a buddy here in tx with a M57 in it , super fun and fast cruiser . This one has a R151 behind it not a h55. The work was done as a one off by a shop in Europe.Did some troubleshooting. It's not the pump or the fuel filter. I either have an air leak in the line, or my guage is off and my fuel tank is empty even though it shows a little less than 1/4. I'll dump a few more gallons of fuel in it tomorrow and test.
On the engine swap thoughts, I just found out that Baldur controls (Baldur's Control Systems - https://controls.is/shop/) now has support for BMW M57 (as in base map and wiring help) with their common rail ECU. The M57 is a wonderful engine. We have one in our X5. 250hp 450lbft torque, it tows my 6000lb wellcraft better than my v8 tundra (while getting 17mpg vs. 9 or 10 with the tundra) and gets 25+mpg on the highway unloaded. With DPF deleted, EGR deleted, Urea injection deleted, and a more free flowing exhaust you can add 100 to both torque and Hp numbers if you want with a custom tune. Engine internals are good to over 700hp..It's a very high performing and overbuilt engine.
Currently there is an adapter made to make the rear of the M57 look like the toyota 3.0 and 3.4 gas engines in the pickups and 4 runners, but not sure if H55F will bolt to that or not.
If we decide not to move and I get my other house sold I may take on another project and it might be a swap.
Part of me wants to do it for the learning experience. The BMW seems like the best built candidate for a diesel swap larger than 4 cyl, but smaller than truck size 5.9 cummins/4bt/4bd1 isuzu/v8 duramax size. ...............We'll see.
I like the sound of that! A while ago there was someone who put a BMW diesel (I think it was an M57) into an LJ78. Looked like a really cool swap.Did some troubleshooting. It's not the pump or the fuel filter. I either have an air leak in the line, or my guage is off and my fuel tank is empty even though it shows a little less than 1/4. I'll dump a few more gallons of fuel in it tomorrow and test.
On the engine swap thoughts, I just found out that Baldur controls (Baldur's Control Systems - https://controls.is/shop/) now has support for BMW M57 (as in base map and wiring help) with their common rail ECU. The M57 is a wonderful engine. We have one in our X5. 250hp 450lbft torque, it tows my 6000lb wellcraft better than my v8 tundra (while getting 17mpg vs. 9 or 10 with the tundra) and gets 25+mpg on the highway unloaded. With DPF deleted, EGR deleted, Urea injection deleted, and a more free flowing exhaust you can add 100 to both torque and Hp numbers if you want with a custom tune. Engine internals are good to over 700hp..It's a very high performing and overbuilt engine.
Currently there is an adapter made to make the rear of the M57 look like the toyota 3.0 and 3.4 gas engines in the pickups and 4 runners, but not sure if H55F will bolt to that or not.
If we decide not to move and I get my other house sold I may take on another project and it might be a swap.
Part of me wants to do it for the learning experience. The BMW seems like the best built candidate for a diesel swap larger than 4 cyl, but smaller than truck size 5.9 cummins/4bt/4bd1 isuzu/v8 duramax size. ...............We'll see.
They are not OEM, seller might be able to give more clarity but as far as I can tell they are an Eastern European remanufacture. There is both Cyrillic and German writing on the panel labels.Are those panels remanufactured? Also, what vehicle are they for, a SWB 70?