there's nothing in the FSM that i could find on this and nothing on mud either. anyway here is a breakdown for the noobs who may have not done this one before.
backstory is i had to do belts after i blew two off just before getting on the highway. at the time i didn't even know what the belts did let alone the names of the parts.
so after getting it towed home i was able eventually to wrap my head around what the parts were named, what sequence to get the belts on, and to find the belts i had squirreled away. by the way getting those belts over the fan is some kind of topological MC Escher s*** if you ask me(!). anyway here goes.
if i did it again i would order the two bolts and the tensioner block up front. chances are the tensioner bolt is at least partially stripped like mine was. so you may as well change them because someone before you probably ****ed it up.
take out the tensioner bolt. unscrew it fully counterclockwise and just worm it around all the hose and pipe in the way until you can take it out. definitely remove the battery box. it's not even up for debate if this is your first time in there with this. then take off the tensioner block by removing the tensioner block bolt. use a mirror if you have to to find it.
if you removed the tensioner pulley and tensioner pulley bolt (supposedly it is not doing anything except sitting there waiting to seize up and tear up your belts...) this will all be easier. anyway also fully loosen the alternator PIVOT BOLT on the top left. also use a mirror to find it if you have to.
the deal is there is the pivot bolt (14mm 43 ft-lb). if it is not loosened the alternator can't move when you tighten the alternator tensioner bolt and you will strip the threads of the tensioner bolt, the tensioner block or both. or you will just shear off the bolt completely like i did. the alternator also won't move when you /loosen/ the tensioner bolt if you don't loosen the pivot bolt first - but you won't know this and it won't strip anything since you are just loosening a bolt. basically the belts just won't go slack like they should (if they were still on there that is).
OTOH it is sort of surprisingly easy to strip the tensioner bolt and block if you don't understand the mechanics of this thing.
i think (?) i did fine with all of it the first time but there is no clear explanation of the amount of tension you have to put on the belts and i had them too loose so i went back in to make them tighter and i think i didn't loosen the pivot bolt when i did this. and it is so tight in there you are already ham fisting just to get the wrench in around the tensioner bolt so horking the wrench when you are tightening it doesn't seem like a big deal.
anyway it should turn easy so don't force it.
where was i? oh loosen the alternator bolt so the alternator can pivot - moving the alternator pulley to tighten or loosen tension on the belt.
also loosen the bolt that slots through the tensioner block (it doesn't thread into it) so it just is loosely sitting in the alternator housing. what this bolt does is secure the tensioner block and tensioner bolt to the alternator to secure the alternator to the tensioner assembly that is bolted to the block. if you don't loosen this you will be turning the tensioner bolt to tighten the belt (by bringing the alternator pulley towards you) but the alternator and tensioner block won't be moving because they are fixed to the tensioner assembly that is itself bolted to the engine.
you can see in the photos this tensioner assembly has a curved slot in it. and you can see how the alternator attaches through the tensioner block to the tensioner block bolt. and that this rides in the curved slot when the tensioner bolt gets turned clockwise.
anyway. loosen the tensioner block bolt.
now tighten the tensioner bolt until the belts only depress by the width of the belt if you push down hard on it.
that's it. now tighten the tensioner block bolt (14mm) to 15 ft lb.
then use a 1/2" wrench with 14mm socket (12 point socket if possible) and tighten the alternator pivot bolt to 43 ft-lb.
so to summarize:
loosen alternator pivot bolt (1/2" wrench 14mm socket) on top left. leave it loose in the engine block.
loosen tensioner block bolt (14mm). leave it loose in the alternator.
if you are replacing tensioner block bolt, block and tensioner bolt - i angled the long tensioner bolt into the tensioner assembly, then started the threads manually into the tensioner block until it "bottomed out" on the "left" side. then i loosely fitted the tensioner block bolt into the alternator.
now tighten the tensioner bolt until the alternator pulley only allows for about 1/4" or 6mm or the width of one of the alternator belts when you push down hard on it.
now tighten the tensioner block bolt (14mm 15 ft-lb).
now tighten the alternator pivot bolt (14mm 43 ft-lb).
anyway that might be a bit pedantic for some ("It's the big one, I'm coming to join ya Elizabeth!") but i did this for the first time and could have used an explanation for this assembly.
here are some pics.
backstory is i had to do belts after i blew two off just before getting on the highway. at the time i didn't even know what the belts did let alone the names of the parts.
so after getting it towed home i was able eventually to wrap my head around what the parts were named, what sequence to get the belts on, and to find the belts i had squirreled away. by the way getting those belts over the fan is some kind of topological MC Escher s*** if you ask me(!). anyway here goes.
if i did it again i would order the two bolts and the tensioner block up front. chances are the tensioner bolt is at least partially stripped like mine was. so you may as well change them because someone before you probably ****ed it up.
take out the tensioner bolt. unscrew it fully counterclockwise and just worm it around all the hose and pipe in the way until you can take it out. definitely remove the battery box. it's not even up for debate if this is your first time in there with this. then take off the tensioner block by removing the tensioner block bolt. use a mirror if you have to to find it.
if you removed the tensioner pulley and tensioner pulley bolt (supposedly it is not doing anything except sitting there waiting to seize up and tear up your belts...) this will all be easier. anyway also fully loosen the alternator PIVOT BOLT on the top left. also use a mirror to find it if you have to.
the deal is there is the pivot bolt (14mm 43 ft-lb). if it is not loosened the alternator can't move when you tighten the alternator tensioner bolt and you will strip the threads of the tensioner bolt, the tensioner block or both. or you will just shear off the bolt completely like i did. the alternator also won't move when you /loosen/ the tensioner bolt if you don't loosen the pivot bolt first - but you won't know this and it won't strip anything since you are just loosening a bolt. basically the belts just won't go slack like they should (if they were still on there that is).
OTOH it is sort of surprisingly easy to strip the tensioner bolt and block if you don't understand the mechanics of this thing.
i think (?) i did fine with all of it the first time but there is no clear explanation of the amount of tension you have to put on the belts and i had them too loose so i went back in to make them tighter and i think i didn't loosen the pivot bolt when i did this. and it is so tight in there you are already ham fisting just to get the wrench in around the tensioner bolt so horking the wrench when you are tightening it doesn't seem like a big deal.
anyway it should turn easy so don't force it.
where was i? oh loosen the alternator bolt so the alternator can pivot - moving the alternator pulley to tighten or loosen tension on the belt.
also loosen the bolt that slots through the tensioner block (it doesn't thread into it) so it just is loosely sitting in the alternator housing. what this bolt does is secure the tensioner block and tensioner bolt to the alternator to secure the alternator to the tensioner assembly that is bolted to the block. if you don't loosen this you will be turning the tensioner bolt to tighten the belt (by bringing the alternator pulley towards you) but the alternator and tensioner block won't be moving because they are fixed to the tensioner assembly that is itself bolted to the engine.
you can see in the photos this tensioner assembly has a curved slot in it. and you can see how the alternator attaches through the tensioner block to the tensioner block bolt. and that this rides in the curved slot when the tensioner bolt gets turned clockwise.
anyway. loosen the tensioner block bolt.
now tighten the tensioner bolt until the belts only depress by the width of the belt if you push down hard on it.
that's it. now tighten the tensioner block bolt (14mm) to 15 ft lb.
then use a 1/2" wrench with 14mm socket (12 point socket if possible) and tighten the alternator pivot bolt to 43 ft-lb.
so to summarize:
loosen alternator pivot bolt (1/2" wrench 14mm socket) on top left. leave it loose in the engine block.
loosen tensioner block bolt (14mm). leave it loose in the alternator.
if you are replacing tensioner block bolt, block and tensioner bolt - i angled the long tensioner bolt into the tensioner assembly, then started the threads manually into the tensioner block until it "bottomed out" on the "left" side. then i loosely fitted the tensioner block bolt into the alternator.
now tighten the tensioner bolt until the alternator pulley only allows for about 1/4" or 6mm or the width of one of the alternator belts when you push down hard on it.
now tighten the tensioner block bolt (14mm 15 ft-lb).
now tighten the alternator pivot bolt (14mm 43 ft-lb).
anyway that might be a bit pedantic for some ("It's the big one, I'm coming to join ya Elizabeth!") but i did this for the first time and could have used an explanation for this assembly.
here are some pics.
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