FJ62 Interior Restoration (3 Viewers)

[georgebj60]

Haha. Sweet find! The truck gave you a little reward for all your hard work. Though I'd like to know more about the filter you created for the intake screen. As for the cowl vents, I agree a larger pre-filter there would eliminate most of the problems. I was always thinking that a strip of stainless steel mesh could be installed from the access cutouts under the hood, maybe held in place with a magnetic strip or something. Something to ponder....

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Haha. Sweet find! The truck gave you a little reward for all your hard work. Though I'd like to know more about the filter you created for the intake screen. As for the cowl vents, I agree a larger pre-filter there would eliminate most of the problems. I was always thinking that a strip of stainless steel mesh could be installed from the access cutouts under the hood, maybe held in place with a magnetic strip or something. Something to ponder....

I'm planning to build the filter this weekend along with the hood vent shields. I'll send pictures and specs!

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Getting into the good stuff. Gauges and switches! I fully disassembled the gauge and switch clusters from the dash bevels. My top bevel was broken around the the radio area. Luckily, these are readily available so I snagged a new one.. I disassembled every gauge for a comprehensive cleaning inside and out. They all had this dust and gunk built up around the outside casings, and they all had some inside as well. After a good cleaning, I spayed a bit of the Teflon lubricant into some of the small mechanical moving parts. I have also found that this Teflon spray works great for cleaning circuit boards. Once the spray dries, leaving a light film of white Teflon powder, I use a small soft bristle paint brush to gently brush away the Teflon residue. I polished each lens and reassembled with care. I did the same for the digital clock, and every switch. The switches were a bit tricky. A few of them were not designed to be opened up easily, and the plastic is getting brittle in it's old age. I endured a few small cracks, but was able to get into the the switches and clean them out. I also cleaned the multiple wiring harness and checked all the connections. Reassembly was a breeze. Looks like new. I'm shopping for some solid state led's to replace all the bulbs. I got a really cheap set on Amazon, 70 for $15.00. But the set doesn't have the right combination of size and color. They also don't look like they will last, so I'm looking around for a set of better quality solid state led's. should be easy to find.

 

[LCABOVEALL]

About your dash...here is a link that describes what I did to paint a new OEM gray dash brown (pages 2 & 3 of thread). You can get it for $510 with free shipping (Coupon code: FREESHIP ) from Parts at Passport Toyota.com: SEM Paint and supplies will cost you another $60 and 6-8 hrs labor.
How to Change FJ62 Dash Color

1988 Toyota Land Cruiser Pad sub-assembly, instrument panel safety - 5540190A0503 | Passport Toyota, Suitland MD

Pad sub-assembly, instrument panel safety. Shadow gray. 1988 Toyota Land Cruiser. Genuine Toyota Part - 5540190A0503 (55401-90A05-03, 5540190A0505, 5540190A0703, 5540190A0705). Ships from Passport Toyota, Suitland MD

parts.passporttoyota.com

If you do have access to a reasonably-priced and gifted upholsterer you might be able to get something close to OEM for the same price.

I contacted Just Dashes and the cost was closer to $1200 (not including shipping).

For sound deadening, I bought two 36 ft2 boxes of the Noico 80 mm butyl and topped it with the 157 mm Siles closed-cell foam (another two boxes). There was enough of the Noico left over to do the inside of the doors, but not the rear quarters. Along with new door seals that will make a big difference.

Eventually you'll want to buy my stickers made for the 1988 FJ62 for $65: For Sale 60 Series (FJ62) Decals/Stickers - Interior and Engine Bay

And...if you haven't already done so, buy the two bushings for you transmission shifter handle and a new bulb while you are in there. Only a couple of bucks.

Finally, to answer your question I only know that the best match for the dash color is SEM Cordovan Brown. The other shades of brown are a mystery, but I can tell you for sure it isn't the same brown currently on your E-brake shifter.

About your dash...here is a link that describes what I did to paint a new OEM gray dash brown (pages 2 & 3 of thread). You can get it for $510 with free shipping (Coupon code: FREESHIP ) from Parts at Passport Toyota.com: SEM Paint and supplies will cost you another $60 and 6-8 hrs labor.
How to Change FJ62 Dash Color

1988 Toyota Land Cruiser Pad sub-assembly, instrument panel safety - 5540190A0503 | Passport Toyota, Suitland MD

Pad sub-assembly, instrument panel safety. Shadow gray. 1988 Toyota Land Cruiser. Genuine Toyota Part - 5540190A0503 (55401-90A05-03, 5540190A0505, 5540190A0703, 5540190A0705). Ships from Passport Toyota, Suitland MD

parts.passporttoyota.com

If you do have access to a reasonably-priced and gifted upholsterer you might be able to get something close to OEM for the same price.

I contacted Just Dashes and the cost was closer to $1200 (not including shipping).

For sound deadening, I bought two 36 ft2 boxes of the Noico 80 mm butyl and topped it with the 157 mm Siles closed-cell foam (another two boxes). There was enough of the Noico left over to do the inside of the doors, but not the rear quarters. Along with new door seals that will make a big difference.

Eventually you'll want to buy my stickers made for the 1988 FJ62 for $65: For Sale 60 Series (FJ62) Decals/Stickers - Interior and Engine Bay

And...if you haven't already done so, buy the two bushings for you transmission shifter handle and a new bulb while you are in there. Only a couple of bucks.

Finally, to answer your question I only know that the best match for the dash color is SEM Cordovan Brown. The other shades of brown are a mystery, but I can tell you for sure it isn't the same brown currently on your E-brake shifter.

Where did you place the Noico product other then the doors? I'm considering using it on my fire wall, but that will require I remove the OEM asphalt pads, which are in great shape. I've been warned that the butyl may tend to "melt" and drip when it gets hot. The KilMat I bought reads that it is rated for up to 220 degrees F, which should be good anywhere inside the rig......right?

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Has anyone used the SEM Color Coat product on metal? I'm going to be refinishing several interior parts, mostly the various types of plastic that make up the interior trim. But, I am also planning to refinish the metal dash frame. SEM says it's applicable to metal that is properly primed and prepped. Just curious how durable it will be on metal, or is it better to use color match paint??

 

[TheEngineer]

Has anyone used the SEM Color Coat product on metal? I'm going to be refinishing several interior parts, mostly the various types of plastic that make up the interior trim. But, I am also planning to refinish the metal dash frame. SEM says it's applicable to metal that is properly primed and prepped. Just curious how durable it will be on metal, or is it better to use color match paint??

I tried looking into this but it doesn't seem like anyone has an exact match to the color. Going to drop mine off at an auto body shop and have them do it all.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Where did you place the Noico product other then the doors? I'm considering using it on my fire wall, but that will require I remove the OEM asphalt pads, which are in great shape. I've been warned that the butyl may tend to "melt" and drip when it gets hot. The KilMat I bought reads that it is rated for up to 220 degrees F, which should be good anywhere inside the rig......right?

Hi LC...Besides the doors, I had the Noico and overlying foam padding placed on the bottom of the tub. There wasn't any rust inside the car and it didn't seem to make sense to scrape off the existing asphalt, so we placed the Noico on top of the asphalt after cleaning out the old jute.

The firewall area looked in great shape so we didn't cover that area. For proper credit, this noise barrier and carpet-kit install was done by Doug DeLong (Buena Vista, CO) at the same time he re-geared the differentials and did some tune-up work on the engine. Here are photos:

he

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Hi LC...Besides the doors, I had the Noico and overlying foam padding placed on the bottom of the tub. There wasn't any rust inside the car and it didn't seem to make sense to scrape off the existing asphalt, so we placed the Noico on top of the asphalt after cleaning out the old jute.

The firewall area looked in great shape so we didn't cover that area. For proper credit, this noise barrier and carpet-kit install was done by Doug DeLong (Buena Vista, CO) at the same time he re-geared the differentials and did some tune-up work on the engine. Here are photos:

View attachment 2836225

View attachment 2836226

View attachment 2836227
he

Very nice! This is what I have in mind as well. I also plan to apply to the ceiling. I have , however, steered away from using the KilMat on the firewall after some advise and more research. By all accounts, there shouldn't be a problem using it on the firewall, but the idea it's possible and that I would have to remove move it at some point was enough to spook me. Instead, I am building a custom tri-layer "mat" to replace the OEM Rubber mat with jute backing. I will be using the OEM mat as a template for overall size, shape, and cut-outs so it can be installed exactly like the OEM rubber/jute mat. I'll update with pictures as I go.

BTW, are you happy with your multi layer set up? Worth all the trouble in your opinion?

 

[WoodnotRust]

BTW, are you happy with your multi layer set up? Worth all the trouble in your opinion?

It's been incremental progress as far as noise reduction goes. When I started I couldn't hear myself think. I did the sound dampening below the carpet first and I could tell the difference...although just barely because there was still a lot of wind noise around the doors and the windows rattled around.

The big difference came after Kelly installed the new window run channels (no more rattling) and door seals (major wind-noise reduction). At the same time the Noico was installed in the doors, so now there is a real solid feel to the doors when they close and the ride is much quieter.

The downside of all of the work above is that I can hear other noises previously undetectable above the din. Small vibrations and high-frequency rattles somewhere in the vicinity of my glove box? Now I know that my OEM radio is really pretty bad. One by one I'm going to hunt them down.

I believe you'll experience the same incremental improvement in all the work that you are doing and plan to do.

 

[Tayoflor]

View attachment 2835137

I might be interested in this if you don't have any plans for it!

 

[LCABOVEALL]

It's been incremental progress as far as noise reduction goes. When I started I couldn't hear myself think. I did the sound dampening below the carpet first and I could tell the difference...although just barely because there was still a lot of wind noise around the doors and the windows rattled around.

The big difference came after Kelly installed the new window run channels (no more rattling) and door seals (major wind-noise reduction). At the same time the Noico was installed in the doors, so now there is a real solid feel to the doors when they close and the ride is much quieter.

The downside of all of the work above is that I can hear other noises previously undetectable above the din. Small vibrations and high-frequency rattles somewhere in the vicinity of my glove box? Now I know that my OEM radio is really pretty bad. One by one I'm going to hunt them down.

I believe you'll experience the same incremental improvement in all the work that you are doing and plan to do.

Thanks Rust! The first task I set upon with this project was to get all the doors and windows operating as they should. Getting the auto windows locks working was the goal, which led me down a rabbit hole of course. I ended up with brand new OEM window runs, weather seals, and door seals. The window runs that were in the rig looked fairly new, but after comparing them to the OEM product, they were much more stiff and didn't allow the widows to travel as freely. Glad I replaced them!

 

[LCABOVEALL]

I might be interested in this if you don't have any plans for it!

Hit me back in a couple weeks. I may be out of gas on refurbishing all these OEM part by then!

 

[MarkBC]

I went through a similar process with the cowl and cleaning out all the accumulated crap. I cleaned up all that overlapping sheet metal like GeorgeBJ60 showed and sealed it up with automotive culking. I have had not a single drop leaking into the footwell since, and we've had 3 feet of west coast monsoon since I did that.

I put some metal bug screen mesh over the main grille vents above the cowl. This will stop leaves from getting in but not small pine needles but I think those will be small enough to make their way to the edges and out the funnel drains. I need a way to affix this mesh to the grills since right now it's just gorilla taped on. I could caulk it down which would be functional but not very pretty.

 

[Tayoflor]

I'll even take it as is and save you the trouble! Haha.

 

[LCABOVEALL]

I'll even take it as is and save you the trouble! Haha.

I have it stripped down and working on a full rehab of the unit. I'm going to instill it in the FJ62.

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Circling back to the first of two steps Im taking to insure the Hvac blower is pulling in debris free air for the rest of its life. 1) adding screens to the vents under the windshield. I have attached a few pictures. I chose an expanded metal mech roughly 10% the size of the OEM mesh. This will certainly prevent the majority of debris from entering the system.

My second step is to install a custom airlifter over the top of the intake rise.

 

[iCruiser]

You should consider restoring your own dash. Easy to do with the Polyvance line of products. Simple steps that if you take your time, you will see results near like a professional dash shop charging $1k or more. Total cost to restore dash including paint is approximately $100.

Basic steps:
1. Form shallow valley shaped cutouts using dremel where crack existed
2. Fill in valley with Polyvance plastic welding material
3. Sand plastic material flat with dash
4. Apply layer of Polyvance dash pad product (like bondo) over plastic extending 4 to 6 inches on either side
5. Sand entire dash leveling dash pad product and removing any visible grain
6. Thoroughly clean dash with SEM prep spray
7. SEM paint adhesive prep then primer
8. Apply SEM texture spray to achieve desired grain pattern
9. Paint choices of color (SEM Cordovan Brown perfect match for brown interior)
10. SEM clear coat to protect color from UV

I eliminated the speaker grill area by tacking wire screen to the underside covering the holes. Then push the plastic product through the top side filling in the holes. There is a video you will find if you search Polyvance on restoring a dash. Here are a few pics showing some of the steps. Last pic compares completed dash to one in progress. Very happy with the results. You can spot a cap from a 100 yards. This process has more of a factory look.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Spectacular job. I spent a lot more $$$ to buy a new grey OEM dash and painted it brown (SEM Cordovan brown). I just finished that install last night and now I have a slightly used (33 years) FJ62 brown dash in need of someone that has your loving touch. Any takers? $125 plus shipping, PM me.

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Spectacular job. I spent a lot more $$$ to buy a new grey OEM dash and painted it brown (SEM Cordovan brown). I just finished that install last night and now I have a slightly used (33 years) FJ62 brown dash in need of someone that has your loving touch. Any takers? $125 plus shipping, PM me.

View attachment 2851347

View attachment 2851348

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Paint color questions. The windshield vent frame, what is the correct color? Does the color vary with the interior color? The current color is either a faded black, or a very dark grey. Needs a refinish, before I put this dash back together.

Thanks!!