Cutting the output shaft? (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know the best way to cut a gm tranny output shaft? the AA transfercase kit requires it to be cut down to 7 inches as opposed to 9 inches and i think its kinda crazy but i guess thats the only way for it not to stick out the back of the t case
 
The shaft is surface hardened, so use something like an abrasive cut off wheel or disk.
 
Hi All:

When my buddy Mike did the H42/NP203 GRB/'split" t-case conversion in his '78 VJ40, he bought a Milwaukie-brand "porta-band" saw, which worked like a champ to cut the rear output shaft to the correct length for the swap. This "porta-band" saw has been quite useful cutting steel on other projects as well.

Good luck with your rig!

Alan
 
chop saw will go right threw it
 
I had to chop the shaft on my NV4500. I'd heard people using porta-band's so I first tried that. Maybe my blade is dull or something, but after cutting for 2 minutes or more there wasn't the slightest bit of cut on the shaft, it was just nice and polished. I tried the chop saw with abrasive blade and was through it in no-time....like buttah.
 
Rotary air-cut off wheel will do it every time.



:beer:
 
Thanks

Thanks everyone for all the input i ended up just using an angle grinder 9/32 blade and went through an entire blade and a half haha but managed to get the adapter (with some modifacation) to bolt up.

Grinding.
2-18-07035.jpg


and grinding....
2-18-07039.jpg


Adapter bolted!
2-18-07056.jpg


This will be sweet when its in
2-18-07048.jpg


Im thinkin of starting up a build-up thread.....
 
Thanks

Thanks everyone for all the input i ended up just using an angle grinder 9/32 blade and went through an entire blade and a half haha but managed to get the adapter (with some modifacation) to bolt up.

Grinding.
2-18-07035.jpg


and grinding....
2-18-07039.jpg


Adapter bolted!
2-18-07056.jpg


This will be sweet when its in
2-18-07048.jpg


Im thinkin of starting up a build-up thread.....
Sorry this is so late but I am also planning on shortening a 6l80e output shaft to fit into an AdvAdapters + Orion T-case.
Can I ask with the part is that is "arrowed"?

Screenshot_20211115-194842_Gallery.jpg
 
For cutting any steel shafts I’d recommend using the thinnest cut off discs you can get your hands on. I’ve found they generate less heat, and are easier on the angle grinder (or other tool you’re using).

Also, take your time… although it may not heat it up much, heat is the enemy with any sort to heat treatment. And if it does heat up some, don’t quench it by putting it in water, just let it cool off slowly in air. Quenching it can make it brittle… but it’s best fo avoid getting it hot on the first place.

If someone disagrees with me, please chime in. I’m not an expert, and I’m eager to expand my knowledge. :D
 
It would need to be quite hot to "draw" the hardening. The shaft has two kinds of related hardenings. The first is the tempering of the alloy steel and the second is case hardening. After heating to about 1400F and case hardening, it is then quenched rapidly to make it very hard, but brittle. Then it is tempered at anywhere from 400 - 800 F for several hours to make it less brittle. You would need to heat it to over 400F and probably much more to change the hardness of the core. The case hardening is very hard, but it is only about .010 inch deep.
 
It would need to be quite hot to "draw" the hardening. The shaft has two kinds of related hardenings. The first is the tempering of the alloy steel and the second is case hardening. After heating to about 1400F and case hardening, it is then quenched rapidly to make it very hard, but brittle. Then it is tempered at anywhere from 400 - 800 F for several hours to make it less brittle. You would need to heat it to over 400F and probably much more to change the hardness of the core. The case hardening is very hard, but it is only about .010 inch deep.
Good to know! There’s probably a lot more leeway than I realized. That said I’ll still try to avoid unnecessary heat. I can’t imagine ever thinking, “I wish my output shaft was weaker”.

:cheers:
 
Now I see it, the AA PN that I am seeing for a 6L80E is different than your photographed AA adapter which is maybe the 50-0406A...? Slowly coming together... thanks!
 
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