Remote Bypass Oil Filter Install Completed (1 Viewer)

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I bought my LX570 9 months ago and have put 22K overlanding miles on it. It has been fantastic. Upon chaning my oil ... again I remembered I had an Amsoil Remote Bypass Oil Filter kit that I was going to use for a truck I know longer had. That got me thinking and the following is what I came up with.

Disclaimer: Semi expensive and time intensive process, probably not for everyone.

UPDATED Disclaimer Part 2 - Electric Boogaloo: I will run an oil analyis at 10K to see what's what. If you don't like what I did below, I strongly suggest you don't do it. For real... don't do it. Like seriously... you should pass.

Parts used:

Baxter Performance TR-302-BK Cartridge to remote adapter

Amsoil Universal Dual Remote Bypass Filter - BMK-23

Amsoil Filter - EAO26
Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter - EABP90

I also made the jump from 0W-20 to Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30

Install:
Big SUV and a very tight engine bay. Ended up taking off the front bumper cover. It is about a 3.5 hour job. It should make changing the filters easy enough by accessing from below like you would to change a fog light. Short hose runs. The Baxter adapter is almost a work of art. The Amsoil kit is built like a tank.

Why:
I put a bunch of overlanding miles on my LX570. Decent amount on non paved roads. I live in Phoenix and the extra oil and placement are nice. Having my oil filtered ever 20 minutes to 2 microns is fantastic. Changing my oil every 25K miles comfortably is gold.

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Just curious...

- How did you figure out the engine with this filter mod will get enough oil pressure upon start up, considering it revs up to about 1300 to 1500 rpm immediately to shorten the warm up for the cats?

- And what makes you think filtering to 2 micron allows for 25k oil change intervals, other than that modern oil is pretty good and can probably do its function > 10k miles?
 
Just curious...

- How did you figure out the engine with this filter mod will get enough oil pressure upon start up, considering it revs up to about 1300 to 1500 rpm immediately to shorten the warm up for the cats?

- And what makes you think filtering to 2 micron allows for 25k oil change intervals, other than that modern oil is pretty good and can probably do its function > 10k miles?
Not sure why you would think it wouldn't have enough pressure. I acutally have a bit more pressure now, I assume it is moving to 5W-30 from 0W-20, but I'd be curious why this would concern you.

Literally billions and billions of miles, on millions and millions of vehicles put on these systems and documenting extended engine life and oil changes makes me think that.
 
Not sure why you would think it wouldn't have enough pressure. I acutally have a bit more pressure now, I assume it is moving to 5W-30 from 0W-20, but I'd be curious why this would concern you.

Literally billions and billions of miles, on millions and millions of vehicles put on these systems and documenting extended engine life and oil changes makes me think that.
More oil pressure could mean easier suction (I would think suction is through a coarse filter in the sump which you have not changed) or more resistance on the discharge side (which could be the 5W-30, which is fine for this engine in many countries now or the filter mod). Did you figure out this is ok to keep the oil flow timely and in enough quantity to the valves and various bearings in your engine, especially upon startup?

Also be interested to see those claims on extended engine life due to addition of dual oil filters placed remote from the engine. The one I am aware of is on heavy duty industrial diesel engines taking care of sooth from low quality diesel, moving the needle in running hours from conservative to a little less conservative. Does not seem relevant to the gasoline 3UR-FE build to fine tolerances with particle filtering being a low priority for most of its run life. The oil lubrication properties and cleaning ability do not get extended by finer filtering.

In any case, without knowing (much) more details of the 3UR-FE lubrication system I would not make the filter mod and definitely do not think the filters will make your oil last any longer.
 
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Particulate contaminants aren’t at all the only concern for oil change interval. Fuel dilution, combustion product contamination (TBN etc), viscosity break down from shear..

The 3UR is easy on oil like many Toyotas but without confirmation via used oil analysis there is NO WAY I’d be going well over twice the baseline interval and five times the severe duty schedule. Five times! And the factory interval is already based on synthetic so it’s not like the usual “switch to synthetic and increase the OCI” strategy.

So I don’t see the harm of a bypass filter, but this setup adds considerable points of failure to the lubrication system. Didn’t amsoil make a spin on filter replacement for the 2UZ that vastly increased filtration efficiency? I remember a write up where someone documented it dramatically cleaning up brand new oil.

Edit: oops. Tried to dig up the above and came across an amsoil TSB advising not to use the 25k drain interval due to sludge formation clogging the filter and triggering a low oil pressure light. Their TSB is linked in the thread. Not sure whether things have changed since then.. it was a while ago.
 
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All interesting points to consider. Easy enough to do oil analysis and see whats what.
 
Not sure why you would think it wouldn't have enough pressure. I acutally have a bit more pressure now, I assume it is moving to 5W-30 from 0W-20, but I'd be curious why this would concern you.

Literally billions and billions of miles, on millions and millions of vehicles put on these systems and documenting extended engine life and oil changes makes me think that.
If it’s so good, why doesn’t Toyota make it a factory install?
 
If it’s so good, why doesn’t Toyota make it a factory install?
Most likely cost on a couple of levels. Most people don't own or drive their vehicles that long and at some point I am sure Toyota wants you to buy another car.

Question: Why so many haters? I was simply posting something I did and there seem to be lots of snarky and condescending comments. Not sure what that is about.
 
Most likely cost on a couple of levels. Most people don't own or drive their vehicles that long and at some point I am sure Toyota wants you to buy another car.

Question: Why so many haters? I was simply posting something I did and everyone seems to be snarky and condescending.
I was around for the big amsoil craze in the early 2000’s. I thought about doing an oil bypass on my f250 back in 2008. It’s a common mod on diesels. First I’ve seen on a lc.
I guess I question why you would do it on a truck where the engine is super easy on oil… no hate, just curious.
 
I was around for the big amsoil craze in the early 2000’s. I thought about doing an oil bypass on my f250 back in 2008. It’s a common mod on diesels. First I’ve seen on a lc.
I guess I question why you would do it on a truck where the engine is super easy on oil… no hate, just curious.
Engine may be super easy on oil but doing oil changes on it is literally the worst thing ever.
 
Particulate contaminants aren’t at all the only concern for oil change interval. Fuel dilution, combustion product contamination (TBN etc), viscosity break down from shear..

The 3UR is easy on oil like many Toyotas but without confirmation via used oil analysis there is NO WAY I’d be going well over twice the baseline interval and five times the severe duty schedule. Five times! And the factory interval is already based on synthetic so it’s not like the usual “switch to synthetic and increase the OCI” strategy.

So I don’t see the harm of a bypass filter, but this setup adds considerable points of failure to the lubrication system. Didn’t amsoil make a spin on filter replacement for the 2UZ that vastly increased filtration efficiency? I remember a write up where someone documented it dramatically cleaning up brand new oil.

Edit: oops. Tried to dig up the above and came across an amsoil TSB advising not to use the 25k drain interval due to sludge formation clogging the filter and triggering a low oil pressure light. Their TSB is linked in the thread. Not sure whether things have changed since then.. it was a while ago.
So I have seen every 5K miles and I have also seen 5K for conventional and 7500 - 10K for synthetic

A very quick google search = (2022 Lexus LX 570 Oil Change - https://www.nalleylexusroswell.com/2022-lexus-lx-570-oil-change.htm)

5K synth oil change on a engine that is "easy on oil" seems odd to me.
 
So I have seen every 5K miles and I have also seen 5K for conventional and 7500 - 10K for synthetic

A very quick google search = (2022 Lexus LX 570 Oil Change - https://www.nalleylexusroswell.com/2022-lexus-lx-570-oil-change.htm)

5K synth oil change on a engine that is "easy on oil" seems odd to me.
It depends on how hard it was worked, as the entire concept of a separate severe duty schedule implies. Some people spend many of those 5k miles at higher RPMs producing a lot more heat and power dragging travel trailers all over the country, for instance. This physically breaks down the oil quicker per mile through shear as well as contaminates it faster.

In my case I noticed a repeatable increase in oil consumption when I went past 7500 on synthetic. Even without UOA that is enough evidence for me that I should run the oil that amount or less. My engine does have 170k miles on it though.

Many people here stick to 5k to keep the math easy, and avoid having to use “extended performance” formulations which may sacrifice certain qualities (or push toward an upper edge of a viscosity bracket) up front to get more length out of a change.

Personally I’d rather just run a high quality synthetic without any marketing wizardry and dump it a little earlier.

Anyone trying to save money on oil with one of these vehicles should be looking at what they spend on fuel to drive it.
 
Most likely cost on a couple of levels. Most people don't own or drive their vehicles that long and at some point I am sure Toyota wants you to buy another car.

Question: Why so many haters? I was simply posting something I did and there seem to be lots of snarky and condescending comments. Not sure what that is about.
I thought the pushback was strange too. This was something I've never seen before and thought it was very interesting. Over the top? HELL YEAH but we drive the most bad-ass SUV on the planet! Now as to whether what you did is better, more prone to failure or will produce results that will make a huge difference I truly do not know. But I have done things from what I have learned on this forum that I would have considered over-the-top previously. So as they have said on TV: "boldly go where no man has gone before".
 
If it’s so good, why doesn’t Toyota make it a factory install?
Toyota actually does on at least one engine.. the 1KZ-TE has a special spin-on filter with a bypass and regular full-flow element built into one housing. That is a diesel, however. The 1HZ is closely related so it may have a similar filter setup, I just don't know much about it.

I thought the pushback was strange too. This was something I've never seen before and thought it was very interesting. Over the top? HELL YEAH but we drive the most bad-ass SUV on the planet! Now as to whether what you did is better, more prone to failure or will produce results that will make a huge difference I truly do not know. But I have done things from what I have learned on this forum that I would have considered over-the-top previously. So as they have said on TV: "boldly go where no man has gone before".
I suspect what got some people's attention was implying that this would help achieve a 25k OCI, and pointing out why that might not be the best idea for future readers seemed responsible.

...and at some point I am sure Toyota wants you to buy another car.
If engines wearing out before they have to compared to the competition is how they go about achieving this they are doing a poor job.

By the way, the famous million mile tundras and tacomas that I've read about had stock lubrication systems.
 
I’m going to a 10k oci next change. Using m1 extended performance.

I do the same, and was recommended for me to do so by my last blackstone sample.

Pretty neat setup, and I don't get all the pushback. Is it "necessary"....probably not, but if it gives you a sense of comfort go for it! I dig it, good work and thanks for sharing.
 
I suspect what got some people's attention was implying that this would help achieve a 25k OCI, and pointing out why that might not be the best idea for future readers seemed responsible.
Yeaaaaahhhhh. That seemed a bit much. But maybe not for particulate matter? There's the issue of oil becoming acidic and contaminated with other elements. I would buy 25K per filter change or 2 oil changes per filter change. I say this because of experience many moons ago with big air compressors driven by big diesel engines at a fabrication plant where I first worked. There I spoke to the "oiler" guy who was in charge of all lubrication at the place. I had discussions with him about lubrication as I was a newly minted chemical engineer so I was curious about everything. The setup on that engine-compressor set looked a lot like the OP's. In fact, you could bypass the oil filter and change it even while the thing was running. I once even saw him dump fresh oil into it while draining oil out of it without shutting it down! I don't know if the engines came with this bypass piping or were modified by the company.
 
I suspect what got some people's attention was implying that this would help achieve a 25k OCI, and pointing out why that might not be the best idea for future readers seemed responsible.
I see your point but the literal second thing I said was a "disclaimer" stating it was "probably not for everyone". I added a second disclaimer, just for fun. Maybe it will lighten people up a bit?

Despite our current state of affairs in the world, I still think it is possible to educate readers and disagree, even strongly disagree without being snarky or condecending. Maybe my expectations need to be adjusted.
 
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Yeaaaaahhhhh. That seemed a bit much. But maybe not for particulate matter? There's the issue of oil becoming acidic and contaminated with other elements. I would buy 25K per filter change or 2 oil changes per filter change. I say this because of experience many moons ago with big air compressors driven by big diesel engines at a fabrication plant where I first worked. There I spoke to the "oiler" guy who was in charge of all lubrication at the place. I had discussions with him about lubrication as I was a newly minted chemical engineer so I was curious about everything. The setup on that engine-compressor set looked a lot like the OP's. In fact, you could bypass the oil filter and change it even while the thing was running. I once even saw him dump fresh oil into it while draining oil out of it without shutting it down! I don't know if the engines came with this bypass piping or were modified by the company.
Many industrial and over the road Diesel engines have bypass systems like that. They are very common on engines that run such high hour counts.. most passenger cars won’t achieve anywhere near that many hours but the issue usually isn’t related to particulates in the oil. It is due to the use case, with so many effectively unlubricated cold starts in relation to hours. OTR trucks doing a million miles at half their rated horsepower spend vastly more of their hours at full oil pressure and water/oil temp.
 

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