1HDFT & 1HDFTE observations-discussion (2 Viewers)

[gifu]

great thread. I've been dabbling with the 1H(x) engines for a bit.
I live in the People's Republic of Kalifornia...
Been driving a 1HDFT/H150 converted 80 for 15 years... and a couple 7X with 1HZ+t.
and have now done 4 conversions into 80 series using 1HDFT, 1HDT, 1HZ+t. Working on a couple more at the moment including a full rebuild on 1HDT, 1HDFT, 1HZ (going into 80, 78, 40)
problems and observations I've encountered:
1) BEB's on HZ, HDT, HDFT are hit or miss. Worth doing. I've found beat up ones one a couple FT so I don't think they are immune. I've found perfect ones on early 1HZ. so... who knows?
2) Front balancer... they deteriorate and fall out of balance. My personal FT developed a wobble that ate the nose of the crank.
3) ACSD are a known time-bomb... I prefer to delete them. There is a oil cooler cover that does NOT have the ACSD water port if you want to get fancy.
4) Injectors don't like water We all know that... I spend winters in Baja and my freshly rebuilt injectors were trashed by a bad batch of fuel. I now prefer the stock Toyota fuel filter head because it has an easy-to-wire "water in fuel" alert. (i wire it to the check engine light)
5) block wear - I had one high mileage block that was a seized engine (BEB spun) and the machine shop said block was near perfect. I had another lower mileage motor that "looked" fine (cross hatching, etc) but at the top of the stroke, there was such a "step" as the machinist called it, that the engine had terrible blow by (would literally blow the seals out).
6) valves - the 24-valve that was seized also had cracked valves. all of them. unsure what the cause was... seems very odd.
7) a little bit of advanced static timing goes a long way to reduce EGT
8) whomever designed the EGR should be taken out back and flogged

 

[SNLC]

I have found on all Toyota inline six engines they like to burn the exhaust valves. Definitely worse on the aluminum heads but still seems to be common on all in-line sixes.

Cheers

 

[TonyP]

great thread. I've been dabbling with the 1H(x) engines for a bit.
I live in the People's Republic of Kalifornia...
Been driving a 1HDFT/H150 converted 80 for 15 years... and a couple 7X with 1HZ+t.
and have now done 4 conversions into 80 series using 1HDFT, 1HDT, 1HZ+t. Working on a couple more at the moment including a full rebuild on 1HDT, 1HDFT, 1HZ (going into 80, 78, 40)
problems and observations I've encountered:
1) BEB's on HZ, HDT, HDFT are hit or miss. Worth doing. I've found beat up ones one a couple FT so I don't think they are immune. I've found perfect ones on early 1HZ. so... who knows?
2) Front balancer... they deteriorate and fall out of balance. My personal FT developed a wobble that ate the nose of the crank.
3) ACSD are a known time-bomb... I prefer to delete them. There is a oil cooler cover that does NOT have the ACSD water port if you want to get fancy.
4) Injectors don't like water We all know that... I spend winters in Baja and my freshly rebuilt injectors were trashed by a bad batch of fuel. I now prefer the stock Toyota fuel filter head because it has an easy-to-wire "water in fuel" alert. (i wire it to the check engine light)
5) block wear - I had one high mileage block that was a seized engine (BEB spun) and the machine shop said block was near perfect. I had another lower mileage motor that "looked" fine (cross hatching, etc) but at the top of the stroke, there was such a "step" as the machinist called it, that the engine had terrible blow by (would literally blow the seals out).
6) valves - the 24-valve that was seized also had cracked valves. all of them. unsure what the cause was... seems very odd.
7) a little bit of advanced static timing goes a long way to reduce EGT
8) whomever designed the EGR should be taken out back and flogged

Good info were you running a single, non-OEM, filter prior to the injector issue?


An oem primary filter and an aftermarket secondary seems to be the way to go, just to be safe. Especially considering the cost of an IP and a set of injectors.

 

[SNLC]

For any of you playing with the 1HDFT/FTE there are a number of differences I have come across which are important if buying parts or doing upgrades.

The HDJ100/101 that had the heavy EGR gear has some important differences. Not only are all the timing case gears cut the opposite direction (also meaning specific vac & p/s pumps) as your standard 1HDFT/FTE the intake and exhaust manifolds are different too. The EGR equipped FTE’s have an intake shutter (junk). This means the intake manifold is very specific to an EGR FTE since the shutter acts as a spacer. This makes for specific injection pump hard lines as well.

The exhaust manifold also has a completely different flange on the EGR FTE. Which in turn means the turbo has a different flange as well. You are not going to be interchanging these parts from an FT or non-EGR FTE and even say a GTurbo without all the correct parts suited to either EGR equipped or not. In my opinion the EGR stuff is not the best so these parts you will need to source from an FT or a non-EGR FTE.

FTE EGR exhaust manifold to turbo flange.

HDJ79 non-EGR FTE flange which is the same as an FT as well as most your aftermarket turbos like a Gturbo.

There is lot’s of other small differences as well such as the turbo flange on the EGR FTE only uses two studs with two bolts while all the rest use four studs. The exhaust dump and turbo support bracket is also completely different on the EGR FTE and much more restrictive.

Cheers

 

[Moridinbg]

Yeah, when looking at FTE part diagrams something like 50% of the parts have two options - WITH and WITHOUT EGR cooler (is there a non-cooled EGR?).
And differences go much deeper. The pistons are very different between egr/non-egr, injectors, injection pump are different part numbers too.

 

[Indestructible 47]

Yeah, when looking at FTE part diagrams something like 50% of the parts have two options - WITH and WITHOUT EGR cooler (is there a non-cooled EGR?).
And differences go much deeper. The pistons are very different between egr/non-egr, injectors, injection pump are different part numbers too.

As far as the EGR goes, I had a HDJ79 (1hd-fte stock) and that had EGR but no EGR cooler. Think the cooler may have come with the HDJ100 which was factory intercooled. Not sure that many FTEs would be had without EGR stock.

 

[TonyP]

Turns out there are a lot of differences between FTEs depending on their country of origin, year of the vehicle and the model it came out of.

 

[Moridinbg]

The big differences are 79 vs 100 and to a bigger extent, Europe vs rest of the world. European ones post-2003 have a Garret VNT turbo, intake swirl flaps and water cooled EGR. As mentioned the cooled EGR changes many part numbers.
What I found curious, while overhauling my engine, is that the cooled EGR pistons that I have are the same as the 79 pistons.

 

[swamprunner]

Have you torn apart an FT or FTE without EGR? Would be cool to see some comparison photos of the intake and heads from non egr vs egr with around the same milage.

Thankfully my 1995 JDM HDJ 81 that just arrived didn't come with egr.

 

[Gengis]

Most people don't maintain the fuel system like they should. IMHO injectors should be looked at every 100,000 km and the pump at 300,000. A lot of times it won't seem to have anything wrong but from my experience you're leaving efficiency on the table by neglecting this. (Specifically mechanical engines rather than EFI) Seems the first part of the pump to wear is the advance mechanism, so as the RPMs increase the timing doesn't increase proportionally. This puts EGT through the roof and makes it very lazy.

A little off topic, but this may be relevent to all, and the thread!
Could this advance mechanism be so worn that one cannot set the advance using the stipulated method. I have worked on two rotary pump engines where, try as i might, i could not set the advance, and resorted to using the marks on the housing and the seat of my pants. Also, if the re-builders could not be bothered to check this, would they check the fuel pump ( Thats the IP's internal lift pump). I am convinced that thises two aspects do not get checked by the more s***ty IP builders.
Thoughts please.
G

 

[WiscoPat]

Excellent thread - I recently purchased a '95 HDJ81 with 125,000KM on a 1HD-FT and have been pouring over information to learn more about it.

Thank you all for sharing your experience with these engines, it's extremely helpful especially for those of us (like me) with little to no prior experience.

 

[wedgetail]

Interesting thread, I missed it when it was “current”. I’ve fiddled about with FTEs and 1HZs quite a bit, they’re both a common engine here. I’ll chime in with a few statements… Australia never got water cooled EGR, HDJ79s had no intercooler. Gturbo - probably the or one of the leading aftermarket turbo manufacturers for Japanese diesels - put this in their brochure “the 1HD-FTE is arguably the best diesel fitted to a passenger 4wd”.

My FTE has 490k km on it, at 395k when I was changing the sump to put it into the 105 I looked at a big end. The crank would have passed as brand new, the shell had barely any perceptible wear. I know this motor is still on its original fuel system and internals. Still gets 12 l/100km while pulling like a train with 3T empty on 285s.

I don’t know of any FTEs with less than 200k, most over 400k now. A lot with 700k + km. I know a few people that work on FTEs almost exclusively, and a lot of people with them. The opinion is unanimous that you cannot beat factory untouched for reliability and power potential. “Rebuilding” them because they have high kms on them is a big mistake, it’s almost always a backwards step. Obviously, if there’s a problem it needs fixing though. There are no internal parts better than factory - including pistons. The majority of compression issues are bent rods due to timing belt issues or water crossings. Almost all failures are linked to aftermarket parts or poor workmanship (eg bad valve adjustment). I have found the valves do need adjusting though - I do them at 50 or 60k and they are always a bit out (not as bad as 1HZ), and that’s not just my engine. I generally notice a fuel improvement afterwards.

If anything, FTE is more reliable than FT. Not that there’s much in it, but it’s an incorrect assumption that the EFI makes it less reliable. The basic ECU and electronics on it are so bullet proof they give less problem than the pump on the FT which needs rebuilding before the FTE has issues.

The FTE has improved head (mostly coolant flow), valves and pistons over the FT.

 

[Longrange]

Thank you all for the information. As a new FTE owner. This thread is a wealth of invaluable information.

 

[bottombracket]

I did not know that late FTEs had VNT turbos.

There are a LOT more differences in FTEs than I previously understood. It’s a steeper learning curve than I thought!

 

[Workhorse]

I believe that the VNTs were available in post update (03-07) Europe delivery only as mentioned earlier in this thread. Graeme of Gturbo also mentioned this in Eric’s @eleblanc and his FTE conversion in 2011.

 

[bug616]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/1hd-fte-engine-pdf.425592/

 

[Moridinbg]

VNT off for refurbishment from my FTE

VNT nozzle

It is a Garret GTA2359V. Normally boosts to ~0.85 bar with peaks around 1.0 bar. Does 0.5 bar around 1500 RPM. I have a 3" exhaust, but stock shouldn't be much different.
Same model number is used in the Mercedes 320 CDI engines, but the actual turbo is different, especially the VNT part.
The nozzles are a wear item at 300-400 000km and replacements suitable for the Cruiser are getting extremely hard to source.
I think the single turbo VDJ79 uses a very similar turbo.

 

[TonyP]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/1hd-fte-engine-pdf.425592/

Good info in here.
Keep in mind this appears to be for the HDJ100's FTE. The HDJ79's FTE is very slightly different. But I only skimmed through the pdf.

 

[wedgetail]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/1hd-fte-engine-pdf.425592/

Thanks, been looking for that everywhere after reading it a while ago.

So the VNT puts out similar peak boost but spools earlier when stock. Stock tune but a few hardware improvements mine boosts about 7-8 psi (0.5bar) at 1500.

A couple of other trivias - all auto (Aussie spec) HDJ100 ECUs had native cruise, manual got it after 2002. It’s internal to the ecu so can’t be added. All Aussie HDJ100s had immobilisers which can only be deleted with in depth desoldering that only three that I know of can do. Japan spec 100s don’t have one, neither do HDJ79s. I’d guess euros all do.

 

[nickolai]

Hypothetical question.

Say you had a 1HDT that was a good runner, with a rebuilt pump and good stuff like that,but was pretty tired and a 1HDFTE 'long block' (basically less some ancilaries and loom/computer), could you swap the timing case and pump off the 1HDT onto the 1HDFTE to achieve a mechanical injection set up since the pump mounts are different?

(Get that it’s an inferior set up to full electronic)

Cheers