New to the FJ60 world, come share my pain (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You really should only need a small (18 or 16 gauge) wire to eliminate any voltage potential between the body and the radiator. When I worked on the 135s we had bonding straps on each landing gear door and flap that were just enough to keep any static from air movement/friction from generating corrosion from electrolysis. Same with any other aircraft in the fleet. A relatively stationary item in a ground vehicle really needs very little since it doesn't see the static buildup that an aircraft does.
My recommendation is a full flush (I like the method Joey used with the vinegar and will be doing that with my 3FE as well as soon as I can), and like I was just discussing with him, if you get a new radiator electrically bonding it with a small wire to the body.
Plan to have it anodized as well. Just like the Jedi Master did...
You gonna post up when you do?
That's my plan. I can never shut up about what I'm doing or plan on doing with my 62. It really won't be much different from Joey's method though, as long as I can afford the downtime to get it done. It might involve a week off or a rental car so my truck can sit. At the same time there will also be a new water pump, several hoses replaced, the hard lines to the rear heater will be powder coated for protection and I'll be replacing ALL those damned worm gear clamps with good OEM spring clamps from the effervescent @ToyotaMatt. My radiator is a CSF that's only a couple years old so unless there's some catastrophe in the meantime I won't be replacing it.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #587
Only because I don’t have the correct equipment, knowledge and time, I decided to have a highly recommended local guy do a full detail on the truck. He has it for three days and goes thru everything. I’m dying to see how it comes out.
He sent me one pic. He removed the side mirror so that he could detail the paint under the mirror. I’m really likely this guy
Turns out my truck isn’t eggshell yellow, it’s actually white. Hmm, who knew?
He sent me one pic. He removed the side mirror so that he could detail the paint under the mirror. I’m really likely this guy
Turns out my truck isn’t eggshell yellow, it’s actually white. Hmm, who knew?
It's like those videos of dudes restoring game consoles and getting rid of all the yellowing in the plastic!Only because I don’t have the correct equipment, knowledge and time, I decided to have a highly recommended local guy do a full detail on the truck. He has it for three days and goes thru everything. I’m dying to see how it comes out.
He sent me one pic. He removed the side mirror so that he could detail the paint under the mirror. I’m really likely this guy
Turns out my truck isn’t eggshell yellow, it’s actually white. Hmm, who knew?
View attachment 2810220
Genius.Oh I think I forgot this. I changed out the block drain. The original one doesn’t have a little spout to attach a hose to. Or at least I’ve never ever seen one that had a sour attached.
Before and after
View attachment 2810237
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #591
Finally got around to doing the antenna on the 60. Originally I just ordered the standard universal one from FJ Company but once it arrived I just knew it wasn't what I was going to use. Ordered the FJ62 part from Toyota and it was perfectly fine. Not sure why I didn't go that direction from the get go.
The install issue was only that I hadn't had a working antenna on my 60 for so long, and none of the customer 60s had a working antenna, that we were trying to install it pointing straight up. This was incorrect. It sweeps to the back and didn't notice until the HJ61 showed up for service with a fully functional antenna. Then it was the aha moment.
The install issue was only that I hadn't had a working antenna on my 60 for so long, and none of the customer 60s had a working antenna, that we were trying to install it pointing straight up. This was incorrect. It sweeps to the back and didn't notice until the HJ61 showed up for service with a fully functional antenna. Then it was the aha moment.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #595
The plan is still to let the 60 go. But one of the things that bugged me about the truck is the carburetor. Since I’ve been driving it for so many years I just “know” how to baby the throttle/choke as needed to drive. This learned behavior doesn’t translate well to the new owner 
The carb was removed late Dec and shipped to JimC first week on Jan. Well it showed up at my door yesterday so that means we can finally get this bad boy running beautifully again.
I had sent him two carbs so that between them he could make one perfect one. Turns out it was the right call.
The carb was removed late Dec and shipped to JimC first week on Jan. Well it showed up at my door yesterday so that means we can finally get this bad boy running beautifully again.
I had sent him two carbs so that between them he could make one perfect one. Turns out it was the right call.
Last edited:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #596
Another thing that bugged me that I didn’t want the eventual new owner to deal with was my front diff was leaking little globs on the floor. Took apart the knuckles and driveshaft and then pulled the front diff. Gear oil was thankfully devoid of shiny metal bits. The ring gear and pinion couldn’t have been in better condition but of course being manual hubs keeps the wear down.
Cleaned out the entire axle housing and sanded down the mating face and checked for any warping or axle bending. No issues. New gasket and everything went right back together.
Cleaned out the entire axle housing and sanded down the mating face and checked for any warping or axle bending. No issues. New gasket and everything went right back together.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #597
Time to do the hubs. After degreasing they were vapor honed. Before painting both the dial and the surround a Qtip dipped into red grease was used on the lettering and the arrows.
Black for the surround and a gold/copper that was as close as I could find to match the original. After paint dried a clean Qtip was used to rub off the paint where the grease was applied for the letters.
IMHO this is a much better way to get the letters to stand out.
Black for the surround and a gold/copper that was as close as I could find to match the original. After paint dried a clean Qtip was used to rub off the paint where the grease was applied for the letters.
IMHO this is a much better way to get the letters to stand out.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #598
Got and installed the carb from JimC at TLC in Ohio. Man this truck has never ever driven so freaking nice. Ooooh man!
Toyota Land Cruiser specialty parts
TLC Performance. A Toyota Land Cruiser specialist shop, service, repairs, restoration and parts sales for classic FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, and FJ60 Land Cruisers
tlcperformance.com
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #599
Special thanks to @tom_shunpiker for sending me a rubber distributor cover that I was always missing. It cleaned up perfectly. Engine feels more complete.
Also thanks to CityRacer LLC for having the replacement air intake hose. I thought I’d never see an OEM replacement again.
Still can’t get over how nice the JimC carb rebuild is. Man, so nice.
Also thanks to CityRacer LLC for having the replacement air intake hose. I thought I’d never see an OEM replacement again.
Still can’t get over how nice the JimC carb rebuild is. Man, so nice.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #600
Time for the 60 to get some dent removal love. It’s freaking amazing how many little dents he’s removed. Some I didn’t notice because if my s***ty eyesight. He wanted to drill some access holes…hard pass. But he has worked his sorcery and it’s looking so bad ass. I think the value just popped up a grand or two
