galvanizing a frame? (1 Viewer)

[kiwidog]

frame

How old are you and how long do you want it to last?

A good paint job after blasting and repairing any rust damage should be good for a long time. If you restore or repair one of these trucks in most cases it won't be used like it was back when it was newly purchased. Most original owners thought of their FJ40 as just another vehicle and didn't take any special care of it or even know where the rust damage would develop.
If you are going to drive in salt laden air or winter conditions you may get a little more protection from galvanizing, however in most cases it is a feel good exercise.
The LR's are different because they have a box frame of maybe 14 gage material and do rust in some spots. If you know the spots to keep clean on a FJ40, the rear cross member and rear support for the tub and pressure wash these after use in salt laden mud you won't have too many problems.
Not many of these trucks are used as DD in bad conditions, if you plan on keeping you FJ40 for the rest of your life and using it daily in harsh conditions then go for the galvanizing if it makes you feel good about and you have the money. I certainly won't be doing that to my 1978 restoration, where i'm at the blasted stage of frame prep now.

Thanks jb

 

[cjgoode]

Clean up and prep the frame every fall before winter and it should last for ever, like they said Jeep and LR's have boxed frames that are also very thin. Even those will last for ever if you take care of them once in a while.

 

[yoda'stoy]

Galvanizing process

I saw this link posted just a short while back. The folks at Crusier solutions created this series on youtube and their website.
I found it very interesting to actually see the galvanizing process.

Restoration 1976 FJ40 - Ranch Cruiser | Video 85 - YouTube

 

[haryv]

I did it on my BJ42 frame off, probably the best thing I did and was relatively cheap at approx $.40 a pound. pain in the arse yes for you do have to retap all holes but as far as protecting your investment I beleive it was worth it. I even went overboard with it and sprayed rust bullet on top of that and then POR black chaiis on that. warping? I dont think so

R

It's been eight years since you've galvanized your frame. Any evidence of corrosion around bolt holes?

 

[kevinh]

Hey, anyone know how much it costs to galvanize a frame? Sorry for the noobie question.
Also, does anyone know a company or person that does this in Ontario, Canada?

Thank you
Be well!

Best,
Kevin H.

 

[Blastservices]

Typically it runs by the lb and they have a minimum. Your frame will not exceed it by far. Galvanizing a car or truck frame is a very Land Rover ish thing to think and do. Blast and powder it and move on.

 

[Jetlander]

I galvanized mine (it’s in my build thread). Absolutely no regrets! Rust demons be gone!

 

[kerplunk]

I can't imagine doing all the work to pull the body and suspension off the frame and then not doing this, unless it was prohibitively expensive?

 

[-MaTTi-]

Hey, anyone know how much it costs to galvanize a frame?

It was 234€ here in Finland (about USD $250) couple years ago. It depends of the weight after dipping. You have to get it sandblasted first.

 

[macdaddy59]

I just did mine 6 weeks ago from a company called AZZ in Mississippi. It costs $600. They did a superb job and have convinced me to galvanize the tub as well which is the project I am working on next.

 

[ryanwk628]

I just did mine 6 weeks ago from a company called AZZ in Mississippi. It costs $600. They did a superb job and have convinced me to galvanize the tub as well which is the project I am working on next.

Really? The galvanizer near us wont do body panels because they may warp. I have a friend who wanted to do his truck bed and fenders on an old Ford he was restoring (New England winters are worse than driving in the ocean) and they told him no way

 

[Blastservices]

Let say for example you want to do a 40 frame… the circles cut on the inside are a small window in order to blast in. Tedious but we do it. You have to remove every spec of paint in order for galv to accept the metal. If you miss spots it will stay painted through the galv process…
A 55 frame is solid and has no cut out so you can assume it’s bare metal and no paint was applied inside… (hopefully) so it will take the galv. Then once it’s covered are you leaving it raw? You can paint it but it needs abrasion to stick. And the tanks are full of slag and it’s all over your frame and looks ugly. (That’s not every galv shop,but most).
Do not galv a body panel. You will be sorry. It will warp 3/16 plate….
My business blasts water park features weekly and some are stainless and some are galv. They all leave and get powder coated for aesthetic reasons. But, the galv stuff looks bad. My opinion. The rest I wrote is fact.

 

[-MaTTi-]

But, the galv stuff looks bad. My opinion.

I painted mine frame with black epoxy afterwards. Now you can’t say it’s galvanized unless you look inside.

 

[macdaddy59]

I have seen some examples of car panels that are galvanized and no warning. Several MUD members (especially Australia) have had there tubs or cabs galvinized with amazing results. My galvinizer assured me that the tub would survive the process with no warping. I am going to have an extra set of the roof sides galvinized first and see how they come out.

 

[White Stripe]

I believe warping depends on the temperature of the dip. Porsche galvanizes bodies from the factory afaik. Internal frame rust is removed from a acid dip b4 the galvanizing.

 

[SteveH]

Getting paint to stick to galvanized metal is quite a challenge. Ford had trouble with this in the 1970s - look at the cowl on pickups of that era. There are a number of post-galv. steps to getting paint to stick. YMMV.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Here's an option to galvanizing. Not cheap. I spoke to him a couple years back and IIRC it was something like $1000 to do a frame. Even if I e-plated the frame though I would still want to prime and topcoat so you have that expense on top. On the plus side it's a very thin and uniform coating so I don't think threads, etc. are a problem afterwards.

Automotive Chemical Stripping and E-Coating - Select Motors

We use automotive chemical stripping and E-coating because it is the most thorough method of stripping a car body of rust paint and body fillers

selectmotors.net

 

[1969FJ]

Here's an option to galvanizing. Not cheap. I spoke to him a couple years back and IIRC it was something like $1000 to do a frame. Even if I e-plated the frame though I would still want to prime and topcoat so you have that expense on top. On the plus side it's a very thin and uniform coating so I don't think threads, etc. are a problem afterwards.

Automotive Chemical Stripping and E-Coating - Select Motors

We use automotive chemical stripping and E-coating because it is the most thorough method of stripping a car body of rust paint and body fillers

selectmotors.net

Thanks for posting this. I would certainly go this route than galvanizing for a vehicle . Galvanizing is a crude process for sign posts and not sheet metal parts.

 

[macdaddy59]

You treat new galvanized metal with T-wash, Then you paint it with a self etching primer than you can use a high build primer and the paint of your choice. The appeal for me is that after sandblasting all of the paint off they put it in an acid bath and prep the metal so all of the hidden rust gets cleaned and washed and then the galavinization gets into every, nook, cranny, channel, tube etc. where rust can hide and start all over again.

 

[macdaddy59]

Here is my frame before, after and then painted with chassis black epoxy.