Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build (2 Viewers)

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Unless with your mods you're using a later loom after the point at which Mr Toyota swapped to negative switching, in which case whoever helped you with any wiring modifications may not have got everything quite right ;) eg, from memory, a friends FJ73 was negative switched and we found out the hard way 🥴
WARNING: POST MIDNIGHT RAMBLINGS OF A SEMI-EDUCATED FOOL:

Sample of Toyota negative switching from the mid to late 1980's attached. If the add on loom is using the factory switch/stalk to trigger the ground for the relay, it could be hindering the current path to the high beam indicator which from factory is somewhat counter-intuitively fed through the low beam headlight element (NB, i think this diagram might've been USA spec so LH/RH may be switched depending on which side the loom ran)

This diagram is a bit counter-intuitive, in that it appears the high beam indicator is in fact connected to the low beam through the low beam element! When low beam is on, that side of the low beam element is grounded, so the low beam headlight element is on but the high beam indicator has 0 potential and does not glow. When high beam is engaged, both side of the the low beam element is now ~12V as the ground path is removed, which results in ~12v at the wire to the high beam indicator!

What's difficult to wrap your head around is this: if the add on loom has a relay coil negatively switched in place of the original headlight element, you would expect the high beam indicator to function as intended, as the coil of the relay would function similarly to the headlight element :meh:

... unless the coil of the relay has a much higher resistance than the headlight element, which makes total sense as the relay draws much less power!

If this rambling is correct, you'll find that the voltage drop across the relay coil and high beam indicator is analogous to resistors in series; the voltage drop is directly proportional to the resistance; the globe is only getting a fraction of the potential so will either glow very dimly or not at all. This could be easily confirmed with a multimeter; you'll find only a small voltage is present at the high beam indicator globe (installed), and nothing when headlights are off. You may even find that if you inspect in complete darkness the high beam indicator is glowing very faintly.

If this is the case, the solution would be to re-wire the high beam indicator; find where it T's into the old wiring, disconnect it and reconnect it to the high beam wire on the headlight plug on the new loom (assuming it is now positively switched by the new relay).


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I'm either a genius when I've had a bottle of wine at 1am, or you just read a whole lot of rambling 🐂:poop:


:cheers:
what you said is my understanding too. theres a headlight troubleshooting guide in the 60 section that helped me wrap my head around whats going on and matches what youve said. im done with the loom so its something for a later date. hopefully the headlights will perform adequately with the wiring in the stock bj73 loom.
 
loom wrapped and installed. tested my additions to find a critical accessory has no 12v or ground and discovered this after 12am last night. so went to bed exhausted to follow up today.

the extra stuff in the loom means its a squeeze to bolt in the fuse box. so while disappointing jts not entirely unexpected. hopefully only a small part of thw loom needs be unwrapped to find and fix the problem.


i wanted to install the dash too now that the wiring is done but realized if i do that ill loose access to the top door hinge bolt recess. i could install them now but they are still likely to need adjusting once the doors are installed.. so thats my next job.

i testes the clutch breifly too.. so i guess that means i got my first drive in.. im going to clean up the shed so i can reverse the pig out and have more room to work on the doors..
 
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spent a good part of today trying to improve my clutch. when i drove it out of the shed the first time it would engage right at the bottom of the stroke.. after lots of troubleshoting, bleeding and calls for help i swapped in the clevis from an 80 clutch to give more throw to the push rod. the clutch now engages about halfway through the pedal stroke. i thought id venture down to the gate but on my return the engine died. i suspect fuel related.. i then got a start on what i had planned for today with more rust repairs.. which im hoping to finish tonight
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finished the fender repairs and mods today.. then threw it on the pig loosely to keep it out of the way.

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and threw the snorkle on too
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also took it for another spin down the driveway.. no stalling this time and even made it up in 2nd gear high range. aiming to drive it a bit more every day to gain confidence in it and surface any issues early.
 
Bob will be happy!
hope so. ive made a start on the other side too but have to come in and child first... ill be out in the shed again tonight
 
Trying to wiring up my internally regulated altenator and its got a 3 wire plug (type 4) like that below:
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I've given it a sense wire and an ignition source at the old plug by using these jumpers at the old external regulator plug. (tested both sense and ign voltages at the alternator)

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however I'm missing the charge light/idiot light wire... the previous plug (for an external regulated alt) had a ground rather than a charge light wire...

Anyway. fired up the pig and saw voltage increase at the battery from 12.4v and after some revs it climbed all the way up to 14.0v back at idle it saw about 13.6v.. so it looks like its working fine and doesnt need the charge light maybe?
 
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