I have OME 2865 springs in the rear, i think thats 1.5" lift, bumped the front up about an 1", i just cranked the stock TB's, alignment is within spec with my OEM front control arms (rebuilt)
rear upper and lower control arms (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mxndrnks
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I have OME 2865 springs in the rear, i think thats 1.5" lift, bumped the front up about an 1", i just cranked the stock TB's, alignment is within spec with my OEM front control arms (rebuilt)
So when would it make sense to replace the rear control arms out? Visually inspecting mine and I can seen cracks in the rubber on both upper and lower but no separation of the rubber from the mount.
It's on the to-do list either way, I guess I'm just wondering if its worth putting off for a while or better to just get it done.
It's on the to-do list either way, I guess I'm just wondering if its worth putting off for a while or better to just get it done.
post a pic... no big deal to put it off unless they're super torn.
While I had my 99 (182k miles) on a lift to get my swaybar bushings swapped out, the shop had me look at the control arm bushings that were visibly cracking and worn out. Once we had them off the car to replace them with Trail Tailor upper and lowers, it was apparent that they were well past their expiration date.
If you're getting the common driveline acceleration "thunk" replacing the rear control arms are going to be part of the solution to solve it. There was a noticeable difference in my truck once I had it done and I can tell that the thunk its now isolated to the front of the truck, likely the front differential bushings and maybe the CV hubs/flanges.
I ended up running SPC rear lowers (for simplicity of solid, single piece, and cost), with Metal Tech adjustable uppers, in case I do need to adjust anything. Also SuperPro poly bushings in the stock Panhard. Felt great after, much more solid and reduced a lot of the driveline clunk I had. (Front diff bushes and driveshaft grease helped almost eliminate clunk completely).
Anyway, during install, I changed one bar at a time, and noticed it helped to use a heavy ratchet strap, but one side needed pulling to keep the holes aligned, while the other side needed pushing to keep them aligned. But overall pretty easy job.
I think it’ll be a good idea to recheck torque specs after... and maybe run thread lock, and dab of paint to check if the nuts or bolts moved. Washboard trails will eventually catch up to the truck...
Anyway, during install, I changed one bar at a time, and noticed it helped to use a heavy ratchet strap, but one side needed pulling to keep the holes aligned, while the other side needed pushing to keep them aligned. But overall pretty easy job.
I think it’ll be a good idea to recheck torque specs after... and maybe run thread lock, and dab of paint to check if the nuts or bolts moved. Washboard trails will eventually catch up to the truck...
Looks like Partsouq is the best cost option if repleacing with OEM but they are pretty spendy and they are currently out of stock of the rear arm. Below are two pictures. I've seen worse, not sure if it's worth stressing over.
Doesn't look too bad, obviously you'll notice it handles and rides better with new ones but you can definitely wait on replacement.
Thanks for the advice, any test that can be done with vehicle on the ground? Big ol' pry bar and check for play?
product number for the panhard bar bushes?
spf2464k | Rear Panhard Rod Bushing | Lexus LX470 1998-2007
Rear panhard rod bushing for 1998-2007 Lexus LX470. SuperPro panhard rod bushings are made from premium polyurethane and have lifetime warranty. In stock now! Ships now! spf2464k
www.suspension.com
Yeah you can stick a pry bar in there and check side to side movement.
Mine look worse... it's one of those things I put off for a couple years since buying the truck but will probably do soon.
Yeah, that makes sense. My rig is going into the shop tomorrow for new coils and shocks, it would be a good time to do it but my piggy bank can't handle it right now. Thinking maybe just swap them out on my own in the summer time.
The procedure seems easy enough with the exception of removing the bolts which may contact a shock / coil.
Isn't the bushing contained in a steel shell, like the lower control arms?spf2464k | Rear Panhard Rod Bushing | Lexus LX470 1998-2007
Rear panhard rod bushing for 1998-2007 Lexus LX470. SuperPro panhard rod bushings are made from premium polyurethane and have lifetime warranty. In stock now! Ships now! spf2464k
Red Beard
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I’ve read through this whole thread but can’t find anyone with a similar issue. I’ve bolted on the axle side the new rear lower control arm on the passenger side, but the front side isn’t even close to lining up to the hole. Any tips? I’ve tried jacking up both sides. Tires are on now but still not even close to matching up. Anyone have a similar issue? It’s probably off by an 1.25 inches.
Rachet strap
Red Beard
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I did put a ratchet strap but maybe I need to get a more heavy duty one (it’s a small target one). I’ll give that a try and report back!
Red Beard
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A bigger ratchet strap did the trick. Wheels on, strap carefully placed around rear axle, and attached to the frame up front. Make sure to not crush any brake lines with the strap over the axle. A couple good clicks on the ratchet strap and that control arm lined right up. I think on the passenger side I had to jack it up a tiny bit to get it perfect. No hammering needed. On the driver side, all I needed was the strap and it came out easily. One side at a time.
When I pulled these off they didn't seem like they were really that worn. But after driving with the new ones, its very apparent they were. Pretty sure these were factory arms.
Lateral control arm came off easily, no jacking or ratcheting needed.
HUGE improvement over bumps and handling after replacing the arms and swaybar bushings!
Upper control arms will get replaced maybe next weekend.
When I pulled these off they didn't seem like they were really that worn. But after driving with the new ones, its very apparent they were. Pretty sure these were factory arms.
Lateral control arm came off easily, no jacking or ratcheting needed.
HUGE improvement over bumps and handling after replacing the arms and swaybar bushings!
Upper control arms will get replaced maybe next weekend.
hoser
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Your old arms look unbent and good candidates for sleeving. Surely somebody would want them.
Red Beard
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Good point. I can put them up on classifieds. I initially thought I'd saw one edge off for a breaker bar, but thats a much better use for them.
