OEM Propeller shaft Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Jun 15, 2021
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san diego
Hi,
I just got a 2005 LC and the front shaft is aftermarket so I’m replacing with an oem shaft.

I just received the new assembly and was wondering if anyone knows if it comes greased? It looks like there’s a little around the slip yoke but hard to tell.

Also, I know if reinstalling the same shaft I remove I need to mark the differential and shaft but do I need to worry about that alignment on whole new assembly?

thanks
 
Be sure to wire wheel the rust or buildup on the flanges if installing new yokes ( and or new prop shaft with new yokes). If removing and reinstalling same prop shaft and yokes, paint mark old yoke position on flange so you get it back in same position. This will minimize introducing new vibes.
 
The new OEM rear driveshaft I installed a few years ago came lightly greased. I added more.
 
Hi,
I just got a 2005 LC and the front shaft is aftermarket so I’m replacing with an oem shaft.

I just received the new assembly and was wondering if anyone knows if it comes greased? It looks like there’s a little around the slip yoke but hard to tell.

Also, I know if reinstalling the same shaft I remove I need to mark the differential and shaft but do I need to worry about that alignment on whole new assembly?

thanks

So did you have any vibration when installing the new OEM one? I too was wondering what you do when you are putting a new one on and can’t put a match mark on it. And did you grease the slip yoke/u joints? If so how much grease did it take?
 
The new shaft is balanced and isn't dependent on previous marking in my experience. If you pull the shaft itself apart at the slip yolk you just want to make sure it goes back as it was, and the phasing is correct.
 
So did you have any vibration when installing the new OEM one? I too was wondering what you do when you are putting a new one on and can’t put a match mark on it. And did you grease the slip yoke/u joints? If so how much grease did it take?
No I didn’t have any vibration with the new OEM shaft and like @AlpineAccess said the alignment marks are only when disassembling the shaft itself.
I could see a little grease around the slip yoke seal when I got it, so I didn’t add any. I’ll probably grease on a shorter interval the first time around to be sure
 
Thanks. I really need to pull my rear prop shaft off to see if it fixes my vibration issue (pretty sure it's the U-joints).
 
Be sure to wire wheel the rust or buildup on the flanges if installing new yokes ( and or new prop shaft with new yokes). If removing and reinstalling same prop shaft and yokes, paint mark old yoke position on flange so you get it back in same position. This will minimize introducing new vibes.

So I finally got around to pull the rear prop shaft and took it to a shop to get new u-joints installed. While the driveshaft was in the shop I drove it around a bit and the vibrations are gone! So that's a plus.

What's concerning is while I did mark the flanges to the diff/transfer case the marks came off in the shop. Am I just going to have to play a guessing game now? The marks are still there on the tcase/diff and I know those marks were point down. Or does it even matter? I just really don't want to have to pull the shaft again because I put it on wrong. :doh:
 
There's a minute difference in shape flange yoke (bi-symmetrical) and you should be able to see it kinda etched in the diff/transfer flanges when you line it up. So, that would at least put you at 50% chance! lol. For your year, be sure to install the slip joint towards the differential. Does it really matter? Probably not but that is how it came and it makes better sense to me... the slip joint has more clearance and is harder to damage than the tube part of the driveshaft.

Edit: when getting new U-joints installed, I'd also have them run it on the balancer before you install.
 
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There's a minute difference in shape flange yoke (bi-symmetrical) and you should be able to see it kinda etched in the diff/transfer flanges when you line it up. For your year, be sure to install the slip joint towards the differential. Does it really matter? Probably not but that is how it came and it makes better sense to me... the slip joint has more clearance and is harder to damage than the tube part of the driveshaft.
Really annoyed with myself for not making better match marks, but I can see the difference in shape. Fingers crossed the assembly goes smooth tomorrow! Really wish I had a lift sometimes all the time! Don't know why it's needed but here's a pic of the FSM for the rear prop shaft if anyone needs it.

image.jpg
 
Matching it up to previous marks is not important as you are having the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced. You just want to make sure the joints are in phase.
 
Matching it up to previous marks is not important as you are having the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced. You just want to make sure the joints are in phase.

I didn't have the driveshaft rebuilt though? I just put new joints on.
 
I didn't have the driveshaft rebuilt though? I just put new joints on.

If it was balanced (or just spun to confirm balance) after u-joints were done; and there was no damage to the driveshaft requiring other work to be done, you're good.

A rebuild is u-joints, slip yolk seal, balancing, and repairs as needed. Maybe some paint.
 
Alpine-

Driveshaft balanced is def important but won’t mitigate improperly installed spiders, non-Toyota spiders, worn yokes or poor mating surface of yokes and flanges.

Yokes can get damaged from an inexperienced spider install, correct thickness shims should be measured & selected for worn yoke and new spider- usually old shim(snap ring) get reused(cause they don’t order them) And only use Toyota spiders.

Yokes not matched up in original mounting position on the flange can make a difference- even dirt & rust scale affects it. it’s subtle but can contribute to driveline vibes.

All that together= transmits vibes at speed

On a trail rig, it’s not a big deal but on a highway driver it noticeably stands out.

IMO depending on the miles it may make better sense to buy a new propshaft.


There's a minute difference in shape flange yoke (bi-symmetrical) and you should be able to see it kinda etched in the diff/transfer flanges when you line it up. So, that would at least put you at 50% chance! lol. For your year, be sure to install the slip joint towards the differential. Does it really matter? Probably not but that is how it came and it makes better sense to me... the slip joint has more clearance and is harder to damage than the tube part of the driveshaft.

Edit: when getting new U-joints installed, I'd also have them run it on the balancer before you install.
Hoser-

I go back & forth with the logic on which end to mount the slip joint- pointing at diff or TC. Ive run my 05 in both orientations and see pros and cons with both. I like your theory behind pointing to the diff to give a tad more obstacle clearance- on the other hand it exposes slip yoke to more mud-water-dust & debris.
 
Alpine-

Driveshaft balanced is def important but won’t mitigate improperly installed spiders, non-Toyota spiders, worn yokes or poor mating surface of yokes and flanges.

Yokes can get damaged from an inexperienced spider install, correct thickness shims should be measured & selected for worn yoke and new spider- usually old shim(snap ring) get reused(cause they don’t order them) And only use Toyota spiders.

Yokes not matched up in original mounting position on the flange can make a difference- even dirt & rust scale affects it. it’s subtle but can contribute to driveline vibes.

All that together= transmits vibes at speed

On a trail rig, it’s not a big deal but on a highway driver it noticeably stands out.

IMO depending on the miles it may make better sense to buy a new propshaft.



Hoser-

I go back & forth with the logic on which end to mount the slip joint- pointing at diff or TC. Ive run my 05 in both orientations and see pros and cons with both. I like your theory behind pointing to the diff to give a tad more obstacle clearance- on the other hand it exposes slip yoke to more mud-water-dust & debris.
I don't disagree, I just dropped in the "repairs as needed" to cover worn slip yolk or damage elsewhere on it. If it balances properly, the joints are in phase and the flanges are clean I don't see an issue.

I am 100% onboard with just replacing the shaft though. That's the way to go as labor and parts on these and you're most of the way to a new driveshaft.
 
got the shaft put back in and went for a drive and no issues for now. Tcase side I don’t know if I got it put back the same but diff side I know it’s not on the same. I guess we’ll see how it holds up? Ujoints are aftermarket from cruiserteq.

In retrospect I wish I had just gotten an all new shaft but this cost $160 for parts and labor.

In other news, when I was rotating the shaft to get to the different bolts the rear diff makes a slight squeal when turning. Didn’t do that before. Kinda sounds like brakes dragging or something? But it SOUNDS like it’s coming from the diff
 
got the shaft put back in and went for a drive and no issues for now. Tcase side I don’t know if I got it put back the same but diff side I know it’s not on the same. I guess we’ll see how it holds up? Ujoints are aftermarket from cruiserteq.

In retrospect I wish I had just gotten an all new shaft but this cost $160 for parts and labor.

In other news, when I was rotating the shaft to get to the different bolts the rear diff makes a slight squeal when turning. Didn’t do that before. Kinda sounds like brakes dragging or something? But it SOUNDS like it’s coming from the diff
Is there any whirring noise coming from the rear end while driving?
 
Is there any whirring noise coming from the rear end while driving?
None that I've noticed, but it's also been pouring rain and hard to hear. The squeal is just one time little squeal right when I start moving (sometimes, not all the time) and then stops. I need to change the diff fluid anyway so maybe that will help. I read another post on here with similar symptoms and the consensus was that the LSD can make some noise when turning?
 

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