Overheating (1 Viewer)

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Jul 16, 2021
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Boise
Hey there,

I wanted to get your thoughts. 100 series has been having overheating issues. Temp starts to creep up but immediately goes down when the heat is turned on. The AC also works really well.

Timing Belt and the water pump have been replaced. I am fairly certain the t-stat was done at that time as well. I just ordered a fan clutch thinking that was likely the problem. I decided to take a look at the heater tees and noticed what looks like coolant in that area.

Is this the root cause of the overheating problem? Also how do you go about fixing this?

Any thoughts or input greatly appreciated.

Thanks,


PXL_20210716_203833653.MP.jpg
 
Well you certainly have a leak on one of your coolant hoses. That needs to be fixed. How is your coolant levels in your radiator when the system is cool and how does the level look in the reservoir?

How are you monitoring coolant system temps, gauge on the dash?
 
The reservoir level has been going down slowly, same with radiator. Using the gauge on the dash.
 
The reservoir level has been going down slowly, same with radiator. Using the gauge on the dash.
Gauge on dash and fluid in res are unreliable. I agree with the above - you’re losing fluid at that heater hose for the rear heater and probably sucking in air when the truck cools down. All of your heater hoses look crappy anyways - replace them all.
 
Fix all external leaks first like the heater Ts. Once that is done observe for coolant levels on your radiator and reservoir. Hopefully that fixes it, if not, look into the possibility that radiator may be clogged. If the coolant levels continue to deplete, not to scare you or anything (potential internal leak) -this could be a head gasket leak (coolant is being burned at the combustion chamber/s of the engine).
 
Get rid of that worm drive clamp and hose. New OEM parts to replace.

At least one of the other worm drive clamps looks overtightened to me as well.
 
Get rid of that worm drive clamp and hose. New OEM parts to replace.

At least one of the other worm drive clamps looks overtightened to me as well.
Although I agree completely, it may be a consequence of the metal (brass?) Ts…
 
Although I agree completely, it may be a consequence of the metal (brass?) Ts…

I used the metal Ts on mine and can confirm they require worm gear clamps. The output on them is smaller diameter than OE, but not by much. I used Norma hose clamps and ended up going to slightly smaller diameter heater hoses.
 

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