- Thread starter
- #81
It looks a hell of a lot better
Builds 1993 80, BUILD, another "it has begun" for fjbj40! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjbj40
- Start date
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I'm stoked I finally found your thread !! Hitch looks great - so much better than the lower bolt ons !
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- #83
Certainly is brother! Thanks for the welds, makes me feel better about this project
Let’s hit the trail tomorrow
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- #84
This is pretty slow moving
But, just installed a Monroe shimmy damper
All new OEM Tokico shocks on order along with 555 TRE’s
But, just installed a Monroe shimmy damper
All new OEM Tokico shocks on order along with 555 TRE’s
- Thread starter
- #85
Oh ya, I also did the “raise the spare as high as I could” last week.
2 pieces of 2x3” angle and a plastic spacer block for the tire winch to allow the hand crank to lower and raise the tire.
2 pieces of 2x3” angle and a plastic spacer block for the tire winch to allow the hand crank to lower and raise the tire.
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- #86
I replaced the 3 rear brake hoses with new OEM, used the extended body to axle.
When I rebuilt the rear callipers last year I accidentally ran the reservoir dry. The end result was not as good brakes.
I read this post Is there a way to trigger ABS actuator to combat spongy breakes? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-a-way-to-trigger-abs-actuator-to-combat-spongy-breakes.309314/
I decided to build a break-out box to actuate the ABS pump and solenoids to see if this worked.
version 1, didn’t work as I figured it would. Mistake was I was switching the ground. So I changed it to switching the power so I had to incorporate a relay. It works!
buch of air came out the proportioning valve and was quite dirty, same with the front, dirty fluid even though it was clean fluid from last fall in there.
version 2
When I rebuilt the rear callipers last year I accidentally ran the reservoir dry. The end result was not as good brakes.
I read this post Is there a way to trigger ABS actuator to combat spongy breakes? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-a-way-to-trigger-abs-actuator-to-combat-spongy-breakes.309314/
I decided to build a break-out box to actuate the ABS pump and solenoids to see if this worked.
version 1, didn’t work as I figured it would. Mistake was I was switching the ground. So I changed it to switching the power so I had to incorporate a relay. It works!
buch of air came out the proportioning valve and was quite dirty, same with the front, dirty fluid even though it was clean fluid from last fall in there.
version 2
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- #87
Just installed the FJ Cruiser steel wheels with LT255/80/17 Falken Wildpeaks. No lift on truck
- Thread starter
- #88
One of my pet peeves about both my 4Runner and my Cruiser is the lack of lighting for power mirror control.
I know, petty
So I installed a post light from aviation and installed it with a 2pin plug into dimmer plug.
I think it is a great addition!
I know, petty
So I installed a post light from aviation and installed it with a 2pin plug into dimmer plug.
I think it is a great addition!
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- #89
Rear sliding window leak revealed itself. I revealed the rear belt mouldings when I got this truck. All was good after that.
We had a good down pour here the other day. While we were sheltering under the upper hatch my son said look at the water pouring over the speaker
!
When I got home I misted the sliders, and found one small leak on the RH side. Rear seal drain plugged, easy fix.
But when I looked closer there was water D pillar area
.
Sure enough both rear lower quarter panels were full of water!
Fawk where is it coming from? A MUD search revealed rear vents aft of the sliders.
Sure enough that was the problem, dried out foam gaskets.
Took it all apart, cleaned and reinstalled with ultra black FIPG.
Whew, another crisis averted.
We had a good down pour here the other day. While we were sheltering under the upper hatch my son said look at the water pouring over the speaker
!When I got home I misted the sliders, and found one small leak on the RH side. Rear seal drain plugged, easy fix.
But when I looked closer there was water D pillar area
.Sure enough both rear lower quarter panels were full of water!
Fawk where is it coming from? A MUD search revealed rear vents aft of the sliders.
Sure enough that was the problem, dried out foam gaskets.
Took it all apart, cleaned and reinstalled with ultra black FIPG.
Whew, another crisis averted.
- Thread starter
- #90
Did a washer bottle relocate. I have plans for the vacancy it created.
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Air craft grade bracket no doubt!
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- #92
All complete, with the exception of lengthening the washer pump motor wires.
Diagnostic port was also relocated.
Diagnostic port was also relocated.
- Thread starter
- #93
Finished, time to buy some 5052 for the next project.
- Thread starter
- #94
I’ve started on the OEM swing out tire carrier. As we know you can get a swing out and all parts except the bracing inside. If you have a donor that’s great.
I don’t so I decided to go composite to at least get the correct shape and size.
It’s been 2 days of fooling around, all day today.
I don’t so I decided to go composite to at least get the correct shape and size.
It’s been 2 days of fooling around, all day today.
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- Thread starter
- #95
Some more
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- #96
Progress
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- #97
Mounted
Impressive work man…. 
- Thread starter
- #99
Inside supports for the latch plate that goes on lower tailgate.
I could be lazy and just use nuts and bolts but I’m a big fan of OEM like quality.
So I use nutserts to accomplish the blind fasteners to make it so. I also attach the support plates with a gasket maker to hold in place vs welding or say pop rivets(
). It also stops water from causing corrosion.
Waiting for sealant to dry then I can mount latch plate.
I could be lazy and just use nuts and bolts but I’m a big fan of OEM like quality.
So I use nutserts to accomplish the blind fasteners to make it so. I also attach the support plates with a gasket maker to hold in place vs welding or say pop rivets(
). It also stops water from causing corrosion.Waiting for sealant to dry then I can mount latch plate.
- Thread starter
- #100
The top bracket for mounting the swing out is welded to the middle D pillar before the quarters get install while MR. T builds the 80.
It’s quite the task to accomplish this after the fact if it’s to be retrofitted.
The D pillar is made up of outer, middle then inner. The middle is what the bracket is welded to. The inner D pillar is where the pocket for the jump seat seatbelt attaches. Very beefy design. I will be using long bolts that goes through my bracket then through holes I drilled in the middle D pillar. Then large area washers and lock nuts will hold it in place.
Essentially similar to it being welded to the middle D pillar. Originally I planned on a expanding structural adhesive. Cost and ability to do a thorough job stopped that concept.
The second picture shows the factory hole where a bolt would go through after it attaches the swingout as it’s pretty close to the outer D pillar. The second hole it the one I drilled.
I feel 2 through bolts will be adequate.
Last pic is looking up the hole in inner D pillar where the seatbelt recoil would live.
Cheers
It’s quite the task to accomplish this after the fact if it’s to be retrofitted.
The D pillar is made up of outer, middle then inner. The middle is what the bracket is welded to. The inner D pillar is where the pocket for the jump seat seatbelt attaches. Very beefy design. I will be using long bolts that goes through my bracket then through holes I drilled in the middle D pillar. Then large area washers and lock nuts will hold it in place.
Essentially similar to it being welded to the middle D pillar. Originally I planned on a expanding structural adhesive. Cost and ability to do a thorough job stopped that concept.
The second picture shows the factory hole where a bolt would go through after it attaches the swingout as it’s pretty close to the outer D pillar. The second hole it the one I drilled.
I feel 2 through bolts will be adequate.
Last pic is looking up the hole in inner D pillar where the seatbelt recoil would live.
Cheers
