Dozer gets her hair did (somewhat of a build thread) (1 Viewer)

[mtweller]

Hitting a brick wall.... don't know about you guys, but seems every project goest through this stage. Frustration level is at about a 9.

- Front driveshaft frozen.
Slip joint won't budge. I've tried heat (MAP gas, glowing red), dry ice freeze, vibration with air hammer, every penetrant known to man. Looking like driveshaft work is going to be required and that wasn't considered in the budget. Not sure if I can salvage the parts and maybe Triangle can repair what I've got. Saving grace is that this would have likely resulted in t-case damage had it not been noticed, and I've got a couple Gs in this case. Silver lining?

- Twin sticks
Major mods now required due to moving the driveline 1.125" towards passenger side (Mark's 4wd kit requirement). I think I have a plan, but it's probably 8-10 hours of extra work. Fingers crossed on this one.

- Exhaust
Looks like the manifolds I purchased won't work for me. I've stared for hours now and don't see a path for the p.s. tube to cross over or exit to the rear. This is different from the 60 guys because I have bellhousing to frame mounts that block that path. Looking at some center dump mani's / headers now:

This will allow me to run the p.s. under the front side of the oil pan and then either 2 tubes to the muffler or y-pipe up front on the d.s.

Not a HUGE problem, but hoping Summit will accept my return of my current manifolds that have been installed, but not run.

- Engine mounts
Using Welder Series as recommended by Stan. Really like them, but I just made a boneheaded mistake and only measured twice and cut once. Apparently, I need to measure AT LEAST 3 times. Replacement part on the way.


Deep breath, step back, and move on.

Ramon

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I've seen a number of 40 guys run ls conversions with just the motor mounts on the engine block, and a transmission mount. Since you have an h55, you could easily do that.

It's not like you're losing out on anything. 60s have the same drivetrain as a stock 40 but with no bellhousing to frame mount. Might be an easy fix for your exhaust problem.

 

[mtweller]

I've seen a number of 40 guys run ls conversions with just the motor mounts on the engine block, and a transmission mount. Since you have an h55, you could easily do that.

It's not like you're losing out on anything. 60s have the same drivetrain as a stock 40 but with no bellhousing to frame mount. Might be an easy fix for your exhaust problem.

It was a consideration, but The PS is really cramped. I have some '98 Vette manifolds on the way which are basically center dump. Seems most 40 guys run around the sump. I think I'll be able to return these other manifolds, since they've never been run. Otherwise, I'll take a hit and sell them on the secondary.



The c5 vette manis are stamped stainless so the plan is to modify them as needed to run around the front of the sump and then either 2 pipes down the driver side to the muffler, or more likely a 2-1 collector near the engine and 3" pipe from there to the exit.

How're your TIG skills these days?

Ramon

 

[lt1fire]

Just drive it with open headers.........

 

[mwalls54]

I run a 60 bell housing in my 40 now. I use a my toybox as the rear mount instead of the old 40 style bell housing motor mount. I just redid my twin sticks with a orion upgrade. I used heim joints and threaded rod from the local hardware store. I think I have $50 in it now.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It was a consideration, but The PS is really cramped. I have some '98 Vette manifolds on the way which are basically center dump. Seems most 40 guys run around the sump. I think I'll be able to return these other manifolds, since they've never been run. Otherwise, I'll take a hit and sell them on the secondary.



The c5 vette manis are stamped stainless so the plan is to modify them as needed to run around the front of the sump and then either 2 pipes down the driver side to the muffler, or more likely a 2-1 collector near the engine and 3" pipe from there to the exit.

View attachment 2633278

How're your TIG skills these days?

Ramon

Still not great, but I certainly can tig stainless.

 

[mtweller]

I run a 60 bell housing in my 40 now. I use a my toybox as the rear mount instead of the old 40 style bell housing motor mount. I just redid my twin sticks with a orion upgrade. I used heim joints and threaded rod from the local hardware store. I think I have $50 in it now.

My problem is now the location of the pivot point (that screws into the trans) in relation to the tub. If left as is, the outside stick for the front engagement, hits the tub where it should come up through the hole in the trans tunnel. I'm working on a little mod there on the steel blocks that act as the levers so that the sticks shift towards the d.s. and come through the tunnel in the right spot. I'll try and get some pics because I know it's not easy to follow by description only. Pretty sure I have that licked concept-wise, just need a little fabwork.

 

[mtweller]

I've not been updating, but decent progress has been made:

Engine mounts fully installed, painted, supporting the motor for some time now while continuing the swap.

Exhaust is 90% done. I wound up modifying C5 Vette manifolds that are tight to the block and made them "center dump". Pass side routes under the oil pan just in front of the sump and merges with the driver side down pipe with a 2x2.5" to 3" v-band collector. V-band clamps were utilized for both manifolds:

MIG Welding stainless without the "right" gas has really humbled me. While I started to get the hang of things as I got more practice, I'm anything but proud of the aesthetics. Good enough for Dozer, and functional, so I just keep on moving!

Downpipe with 2x2.5" to 3" collector.

From this collector, I ran a single 3" tube down the driver side about 4" from the frame, and above the skid plate. I'm running a straight-through MagnaFlow muffler which exits just under the rear crossmember via a turndown a few inches inside the shackle mount.

Fuel:
Opted for an in-tank Holley retrofit pump. I went with a 12-137, which supports 450LPH - that's a ton more than I'll "need" but it also allows me to run e85 which has an increased fuel flow requirement (~30%). I used -6 an braided nylon hose for fuel delivery, which aslo supports e85, so if I decide to run flex fuel in the future I'll just need to add a sensor and upsize my injectors, and a bit of additional tuning in the Holley Terminator X controller.

For fuel pressure, I'm running a "Vette fuel filter/regulator". This filter has a built-in 58psi regulator and a return port, which routes back to the Holley pump return port.
Pretty elegant solution that allows for a really short return line, and simplifies the plumbing a bit.

Skid plate:
I was really surprised and super stoked to find out my trick, custom skid plate is going to work just fine with the drivetrain mods. I was certain this wouldn't be the case, because the everything shifted 1.5" towards the passenger side. The other thing that had me convinced it would not work was the change in height of the trans and txfer case. This was due to replacing the WORN OUT mounts at the bellhousing.

43 year old mount on the left, new on the right. This raised the trans and transfer height, at these mounts, by about 1/2". This actually helped with skid plate clearance, instead of hurting it. It does make the top of the txfer case reallllllly tight to the tub. But it still fits.

Cooling:
I have been really going back and forth on what radiator to run, as well as fans. I knew I wanted a new aluminum radiator and after much debate, settled on a 22W x 19H crossflow, dual pass Griffin with 1.25" tubes. Should be plenty for my stock LQ9. But me being a bit nerdy and giddy with technology, I knew I wanted a brushless fan. I was a bit bummed because Spal 500W brushless fans seemed to be on backorder for quite some time now. 300W versions were available, but the cost difference was pretty negligilbe and the 500W fan moves a good bit more air. Well, I got lucky when I called Wizard Cooling (one of the few NA Spal brushless retailers) to order the 300W fan, I inquired once again and found out they had a couple of 500W fans in stock, in the size I needed. So I gripped my wallet tightly and placed the order.

This fan is so cool. Since it's brushless, it does a soft start which prevents the huge in-rush current seen on conventional electric fans. Also, it is variable speed so it can run at lower speeds, or completely off, in accordance with the cooling requirements. Since it is PWM controlled, I am able to control the fan with the Holley ECU. This allows me to command a duty cycle based on a 2-axis table, for any two variable I want. Obviously, coolant temperature will be the main variable, but I can also add controls based on the AC line pressure (when I add AC in the future) or MPH if I want. I find this way too cool

Twin stick issues:
With the changes to the trans / txfr relocation came issues with my twin sticks for the transfre case. The shifters barely cleared the tub at the tunnel opening before, and now it was simply not going to work. I did a bit of hacking that allowed me to keep the pivot locations the same (in relation to its mount on the transmission) but move the shifters over to clear the tub. It's not pretty, but again, is functional.

To be continued, hit the 5 attachment limit and I really need to get back to work

 

[mtweller]

This weekend I got the exhaust hanger installed (boring, no pic). I also had to add some SS glue to some spots I'd missed on the downtube welds to get them sealed up. So, I'm moving exhaust to 98% done. Once I have cooling in place I can run it long enough to do a thorough leak check.

Got my radiator in and a really good start on the fan shroud. I'm learning a bit of metallurgy, well more of a "what not to do", with this project. The shroud kit is aluminum and had to be cut to size. I found out traditional cutoff wheels don't work all that well and I had a huge mistake with my scroll saw trying to cut a straight line. Even with a fence in place, cutting the flat face of the shroud, the saw kept working left own its own accord. So, while my shroud is functional, it's not going to SEMA anytime soon. You can see the hack job in the lower edge. Still works, and this will be down low in the engine bay, so I'm going to have to make my brain let it go.

Next steps are to widen the radiator support and figure out mounting and front to rear placement in the rig. I want to leave a big enough gap for PS cooler and an AC condenser (in the future) between the rad and grill. The PS cooler itself is really thin, but already was a tight fit with the OE setup.

I also am going to have to do a steering linkage mod since the manifold bashing didn't provide enough clearance for the steering link from the column to the box. So I'm going to have to add another ujoint and a support bearing. Parts for that will be here Friday. I'm off work on the 17th and 18th so I hope to really have the majoring of the swap buttoned up by the end of that weekend. With a lot of luck, I may be driving around the block by July!!

R

 

[mwalls54]

Looking good. I have put a metal cutting blade in my circular saw and it goes pretty smooth on aluminum. Also used jig saws for smaller stuff.

 

[mtweller]

Looking good. I have put a metal cutting blade in my circular saw and it goes pretty smooth on aluminum. Also used jig saws for smaller stuff.

I wound up purchasing a blade for my mitre saw to cut the angle pieces and it worked really well. I may go back and purchase another top panel and cut it with a circular saw, but that's another $150 bucks or so I'm choosing to not spend at the moment. Lesson learned, for sure. My jig saw debacle was likely user error, but I won't be attempting that on anything but scrap in the near future.

 

[mwalls54]

yeah i would wait until metal prices drop or just cover it with a trim piece.

 

[mtweller]

Radiator, fan and shroud are done. Running on water right now to confirm no leaks and for easy drain. I fabbed brackets to hold it into the modified factory radiator frame / support. Quite a challenge to find hoses, but after about 2+ hours browsing multiple parts houses, I found formed hoses I'm able to cut down. Makes me feel better about future serviceability.

So far, no leaks (oil, water, exhaust). Fan works as expected and it idled at 195ish commanding about 20% fan speed, and it was about 90 in my garage. I think cooling is going to be plenty adequate,

Just getting started on battery tray. Left to do list:

Wiring install
Air intake plumbing
Finish trans tunnel mods
Some slight mods to the skid and crossmember
Install tubing disconnects for seat cradle.
Finish gas pedal mods
Oil catch can install
Coolant expansion tank
Finish battery tray
Steering linkage mods
Pull motor last time to install spud shaft, adapter/bellhousing splash guards
Power steering plumbing (PSC hose kit comes tomorrow - thanks for the assist there JC @GLTHFJ60 )

Shooting to get this done before the end of July.

She sounds pretty sweet, I must say. I'm, itching to drive it!

 

[mtweller]

Battery tray has turned out to be a lot more fab work than I'd hoped. All done but some finish grinding, paint, capping that square tube and fasteners to the frame (partially done there).

It looks a lot simpler than it is, I had to make it so I can remove it around the fender and passenger exhaust. I chopped up the factory battery tray and used the frame "legs", but having to drill new frame holes for some of the fasteners since the motor mounts and other bits are in the way of the factory location and to move it about 6" towards the firewall. Obviously, the battery sits several inches higher and outward than the stock location. I also had to relocate the ARB compressor to the driver side fender to make some room. V8 problems.

 

[S4Cruiser]

That does seem like a lot of work...game of inches under the hood. Did you consider relocating to inside the cab somewhere? I ask for future thoughts/plans.

 

[mtweller]

I have a hard time giving up even a square inch of interior space on a 40. My last HC trip showed just how little cargo is possible. So, short answer, no.

That does seem like a lot of work...game of inches under the hood. Did you consider relocating to inside the cab somewhere? I ask for future thoughts/plans.

 

[mtweller]

Bit more progress - air intake is done. I used a very tight radius silicone elbow/boot and fabbed the pipe from a 4" mandrel U-Bend pipe. Painted to match the engine:

Also have the wiring about 75% done. Got the harness routed through the firewall and to the ECU in the glovebox. Took the time to do a little culling and reworking a few sloppy things and will continue that through the dash. Pretty sure I want to move my locker switches from the panel where the are now, that replaced the ashtray cut out, down to where the radio was. I'm ditching the radio and will just add a bluetooth connection and small amp. Main reason it that will put them in easier reach when in precarious spots on the trails. I've found it difficult at times when I'm cinched down in the 4-point harness to reach their current location.

Adding an extra u-joint to the steering linkage now, to give more clearance on the exhaust manifold.

The collapsable double d shaft in the front will be supported by a bearing connected to the frame:

This support bearing is weldable, but I am going to make a simple bracket so it mounts to the frame, instead of welding directly to the frame, to allow easier disassembly for maintenance like removing the driver side exhaust manifold.

Next, I'll drain the water, pull the motor to give better access to finish the wiring and weld up the steering linkage.

Ramon

 

[mtweller]

Getting closer.

All underhood wiring is done. Have maybe another hour's worth of in-cab electrical.
Steering linkage is completely done and worked out nice.
Battery tray completed and installed.
Engine came back out for spud shaft install, and for better access for wiring and steering mods. Back in now.

On to the trans tunnel, skid plate, and crossmember mods. Still have the gas pedal to mod up, but that will come nearly last once the seats are back in for placement.

Optimistic to have it back on the road before 8/1.

 

[little_joe]

@mtweller was that you I saw heading south on US1 today at 11AM, think maybe you were getting ready to exit at 55? I was heading northbound. If so, congrats for getting Dozer back on the road and hope that V8 is everything you hoped for!

 

[mtweller]

@mtweller was that you I saw heading south on US1 today at 11AM, think maybe you were getting ready to exit at 55? I was heading northbound. If so, congrats for getting Dozer back on the road and hope that V8 is everything you hoped for!

Indeed! She lives!!!!! Working out a few bugs, but thanks! This is definitely going to scratch my "hotrod" itch I have on top of Land Cruiser addiction.