TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

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Fast forward to this weekend and I finally managed to get around to getting the solenoid swapped, after the new one showed up . My plan was:

1) Pull her starter, swap the solenoids, open beer, enjoy weekend.
2) Wake up next day and repeat, minus under truck labor.

Needless to say, my evil plan was thwarted by the starter gods. It turns out the reason I couldn't remove the lower, rear mounting bolt (that screws into the starter flange) was that some moron used an impact driver to push a cross threaded bolt into the flange. Fortunately, I got it out without breaking anything, but the flange threads are nowhere to be seen. On to plan B:

1) remove my starter (again)
2) swap my solenoid with the new one (why not, I already have it)
3) install my starter in Sarah's truck, ready for the trip to Dallas and the start of a new chapter of life
4) wait for McGeorge to ship me a new starter, so I can have a truck too
5) stick Sarah's old starter on the shelf and rebuild it at some later date

So all goes well until I try to break the JIS (Phillips) screws loose on the mounting flange to remove the solenoid. No go. Tried cutting a screwdriver slot in them; Dremel saw blade was too large. Finally had to drill them out.

Now to the moral of the story: these are one of the few fasteners I would not recommend replacing with OEM. The steel (screw) welds itself to the aluminum (mounting flange) and the screw heads are too soft to lean on, so the head strips out. I replaced them with Grade 10, black oxide coated socket head cap screws. At least I (or some lucky someone) will be able remove them next time.

I was going to pull the rotor and clean the carbon out, but the lower screws connecting the brush holder to the cap were stuck too. Not having new brushes, I elected to punt that part of the job. The rest of the job was a non-event.
 
So, many words later, I have a (remanufactured) 2.0-kW OEM starter with a sticking solenoid and stripped mounting flange on the shelf. If anyone needs a replacement to rebuild, LMK. Otherwise, it's on the lower end of the list of my rainy day projects to rebuild.
 
The next project on the list. Need to find time to tackle it all.
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Getting close to wrapping up under the hood of the 80-series. All new gaskets and seals, vacuum hose, OEM radiator hoses where I can, gates green stripe where I can’t, WP, and fan clutch.

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As I was up in the wheel well replacing the radiator hose that goes under the intake to the block, I noticed this….

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I assume that’s the PHH everyone talks about. Those don’t look like factory hose clamps. I guess someone beat me to it.
 
That is the PHH. That's some good silicone hose by the look of it, and quality constant-torque clamps.
 
Getting close to wrapping up under the hood of the 80-series. All new gaskets and seals, vacuum hose, OEM radiator hoses where I can, gates green stripe where I can’t, WP, and fan clutch.

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As I was up in the wheel well replacing the radiator hose that goes under the intake to the block, I noticed this….

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I assume that’s the PHH everyone talks about. Those don’t look like factory hose clamps. I guess someone beat me to it.
Yeah don't mess with it. It looks recently done within a few yrs.
 
@FJ Noob Great progress. The truck looked great in person. Thanks for the parts. Great, great great…..
 
I think Ive earned my "rights of passage" or for a different audience "my first blood wings" 🤪
It took me two days to remove upper plenum, all new vacuum hoses, new WRX injectors, new injector connectors, new wires, new spark plugs, and complete Landtank's up-scaled MAF for the SC.

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Ran into some hiccups alone the way, but its all back together. Cant give results yet, because Im chasing down a rough idle that started Monday.
 
“On today’s episode of Ghetto Fabulous Fabrication”…crank pulley final installation.

Not wanting to pay or wait for a specific tool hold the pulley, I found a “universal fan clutch tool” at the local Pep Boys clearance. Not being wide enough to just drill matching holes for the pulley, I used the plasma cutter to notch the edges enough to get the bolts in place yet still hold the pulley. That linked to a 1/2” drive breaker bar to reach the frame rail and boom…Bob’s your Uncle. Not gonna lie..300+ ft/lbs took a little mor “ummph” than I expected. It’s done now and I know it’s right…moving on.
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I think one more problem solved with the plasma cutter and I’ll to tell my wife “see I told you it was a good idea”….it may or may not be said out loud.

Now that I’ve got a few days without all the intermittent thunderstorms, I should be able to pick up the pace. Exhaust manifolds, heat shields, and new radiator hoses are in, old insulation on the a/c lines has been rewrapped with radiant heat shielding. Time to work my way down the exhaust system.


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For anyone who read my header install thread and noted my advice to run the o2 sensor wiring OVER the header and not under. This is what happens when it goes under. I didn't double check the routing before test driving it and had this happen. This image is after dremeling them apart and finally getting them separated.

I had new sensors on hand to install which is how I noticed the burnt connector in the first place. Did my test drive, came home and was ready to swap sensors and boom, melted.

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Ordered a new female connector and depinned the original one and swapped pins. Good as new!
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WV tags? Intrigued.
 
LOL That is correct from a geographical standpoint as @jfz80 can attest but my budgets have always been bound pretty tight! Big thanks to Jason for helping with another Landcruiser retrieval.

@Comet this was my stepdads 80 that I found and baselined for him a couple years ago. He wanted one to leave in West Virginia (where we’re from originally) so he would have it to take wheeling when he or I visited family still there. He had a 40 when he met my mom in ‘86 and would take us wheeling in it when I was a kid. He always enjoyed that and it gave me the LandCruiser bug. The fall of ‘19 he developed some fairly major health problems. He probably won’t be able to ever drive again much less wheel it. We left it there for a couple of years so family could still wheel it in the mountains. I finally decided to go get it for some TLC and a couple more mods.

The lift was @lumbee1 old Dobinson/Fox combo. Really loving it so far. The ARB came from @Ncrunner4x4 when he installed a short bus front bumper. I started a thread about this 80 when it was purchased, I need to dig it up and update it.

Not the best before and after pics but compared to my white 80 on heavies it’s noticeably taller and that’s with the black one on 285’s while the white is on 315’s.

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@fj40z Thank you. For the clarity. I vaguely remember the acquisition a while back. Sorry to hear about the health problems, that sucks. @lumbee1 lift looks good on the truck.
 
Finally got all the important parts of the front end installed. New radiator, heater control valve, a/c condenser, @LandCruiserPhil aux fan kit, PS battery box, hood release cable, and every inch of radiator hose and vacuum line under the hood. This is going slow with all the rust remediation and some fabrication of new small pieces that got broken or rusted beyond saving. On a side note...if you break the special sleeved bolts that pass through the rubber upper radiator isolator, you can cut down a brake caliper bolt sleeve from a early 2000s F350 and it fits perfectly with an M10 bolt passed through it.

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It seems the builder of our new house (1980) decided that receptacles were a fine substitute for junction boxes. I just rewired and replaced the fifth receptacle that had over 9 wires attached directly. Ugh. And the crawl space, where I could most easily mount a junction box, is too tall to kneel and too low to stand up. My back is hating me. BUT, barring a drywall repair for a new receptacle box I’m now done with the first of two bedroom remodels.
 
Sheila has had a bath and is getting ready to head home.

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Her dash was the typical cracked mess. I wrap the cap in fiberglass cloth and finish with texture. Some new SpeedHut gauges don't hurt :)

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