FJ62 Speaker Replacement (1 Viewer)

[The White FJ62]

I finally decided that it was time to replace the factory speakers in my 1990 all original FJ62. I spent a couple of weeks throwing around different ideas, but in the end I wanted to maintain the factory look, but with modern speakers. Here is a step by step post on the route I went:

Speaker used:

Rear = Kicker 47KSC6504 KS Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC65/Kicker-47KSC6504.html
Front = Kicker 47KSC504 KS Series 5-1/4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC50/Kicker-47KSC504.html

I decided to tackle the front speakers first:

Pull the factory speaker cover and grill by removing the 4 screws and then prying the grill off with a trim tool:

Remove the three screws to remove the factory speaker:

Trim the 4 tabs off of the 6-1/2" speaker so the speaker grill will cover the speaker:

 

[The White FJ62]

Connect the factory wiring on to the new speaker, and install using the top screw hole into the factory hole in the location. Use included screws to attach the speaker through the plastic panel and replace the speaker grill and speaker cover:

 

[The White FJ62]

Remove front door panel (plenty of instructions on how to this already available) and remove the front speaker:

Use the new speaker to mark and drill two 3/8" holes. Move two of the yellow nylon nuts into the new holes:

add the included wiring harness to maintain the factory plug wire and connection to the speaker. Install the speaker using the old factory speaker screws. Lastly, I added some clear silicone around the speaker to fill in the hole and to protect the inner door panel from the elements.

Total time = 2 hours and the sound quality was significantly improved.

 

[hogansgyros]

Nice work. I did something similar in my FJ62. I used the speaker adapters from @TheNeek which work fantastic!

 

[hassassin24]

Have you had any issues with window and the front speaker as other threads have mentioned?

 

[The White FJ62]

Have you had any issues with window and the front speaker as other threads have mentioned?

Zero problems. Order the same speaker as I did or at least be aware that you need a speaker with a 1.75” depth to clear

 

[hassassin24]

Zero problems. Order the same speaker as I did or at least be aware that you need a speaker with a 1.75” depth to clear

Did the rears this weekend and they fit perfectly after the dremel. Immediate sound boost, hope to do fronts shortly. Looks like previous owner who did fronts didn't even secure them to the door frame so could get weird.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

just did this to mine with same kickers. fortunately, previous own butchered the screw hole and punched 4 holes. they have the new hs10 kicker micro sub that slips right under the seat. added the kta450/ilx650 piggyback amp for door. deadened as much as I could in doors. the best surprise was wrapping the rear speakers bracket with density butyl. just ran strips of it on all 3 vertical supports that panels attach to, see marked pic. that killed every single speaker vibration I had. I got temporary solution to the front speakers with the foam cups and back cut out. I’m still tuning but having trouble getting away from sounding like I’m in a school bus with canny sound, I’ve got felt liner and cloth seats but think all that glass will be hard to ever stop it completely. he’s right on depth but measure it out and will not find a shallower speak than 1.75, but only need .25 spacer of any kind and its perfect. I included the clearance to glass with this arrangement.

 

[Spook50]

Good job on keeping a stock appearance. Once the carpet and system wiring are done, I'll be building a new system from the ground up, and really wish I could find OEM-looking guards that would fit over the 6x9 speakers I'll be putting in the cargo panels. Been looking for a while, but no luck at all.

 

[HMP]

Zero problems. Order the same speaker as I did or at least be aware that you need a speaker with a 1.75” depth to clear

Is there a list on here anywhere with what speakers have that depth?

 

[The White FJ62]

Is there a list on here anywhere with what speakers have that depth?

There won't be a list here as part numbers change so often in the car audio world. You can filter the search by depth (this is what I did on Crutchfield) and it will show you what will work.

 

[HMP]

I just put these in last night
Windows roll down fine now, no magnet hitting the back. The polk speakers that were in were old and the drivers side had cuts/cracks in the foam of the diaphragm. So instead of spending 30 on a 3d printed spacer (which I have my own 3d printer, too), or just putting some nylon spacers behind for cheap - I just changed out the speakers. Easy stuff and sounds better

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

I just put these in last night
Windows roll down fine now, no magnet hitting the back. The polk speakers that were in were old and the drivers side had cuts/cracks in the foam of the diaphragm. So instead of spending 30 on a 3d printed spacer (which I have my own 3d printer, too), or just putting some nylon spacers behind for cheap - I just changed out the speakers. Easy stuff and sounds better

HMP, apologies for not responding to you. Technology is hard to keep up with at times. What stereo do you have driving these?

I have an alpine and I put a 400wt amp split to the 4 and that really stepped up the game. Only thing I did other than the spacer in door was make a little hat to sit on top of speaker. Water can come down on top of speaker. That’s why mine was trashed, which leads me to needing 2 front inner seals.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Oh and I probably did this wrong but I spent 3 days getting old Butyl sealant off the damn door. That stuff is my Kryptonite. Went back in with new but a neutral color, used a heavy mil clear shower curtain to replace the seal. Here’s before and after

 

[banieldowen]

I just put these in last night
Windows roll down fine now, no magnet hitting the back. The polk speakers that were in were old and the drivers side had cuts/cracks in the foam of the diaphragm. So instead of spending 30 on a 3d printed spacer (which I have my own 3d printer, too), or just putting some nylon spacers behind for cheap - I just changed out the speakers. Easy stuff and sounds better

Thank you. Just ordered these for my 62

 

[HMP]

Right now there's a JVC (I think) headunit installed, though I'll be replacing that with something a bit more modern. And with a volume knob.

 

[Skniper]

Oh and I probably did this wrong but I spent 3 days getting old Butyl sealant off the damn door. That stuff is my Kryptonite. Went back in with new but a neutral color, used a heavy mil clear shower curtain to replace the seal. Here’s before and after

View attachment 3090962

View attachment 3090964

A good alternative to the black sticky butyl (hated that stuff) on the inner door vapor barriers is 3M heavy duty double sided mounting tape. I switched my doors to this years ago, it's still a breeze to open the vapor barrier to service the door and restick it. No muss no fuss.

 

[HMP]

How do yall get the butyl off? Whats the easiest way to do so?

 

[Skniper]

How do yall get the butyl off? Whats the easiest way to do so?

Use the butyl itself to stick and rip of the bulk of it off. Get a can of All purpose adhesive remover, 3M…stuff is great.

 

[Spook50]

I just put these in last night
Windows roll down fine now, no magnet hitting the back. The polk speakers that were in were old and the drivers side had cuts/cracks in the foam of the diaphragm. So instead of spending 30 on a 3d printed spacer (which I have my own 3d printer, too), or just putting some nylon spacers behind for cheap - I just changed out the speakers. Easy stuff and sounds better

These are the same series I'll be getting for my 62 when I reach the point of doing a new system. The 6.5" are shallow enough that with a small bezel they can still work in the doors (I'll be adding speakers to the rear passenger doors too), and I'll be using 6x9" units in the cargo area. I'm building new cargo trim panels so I can easily figure out exactly where I want to locate the speakers (and other accessories I'll be integrating).