What are you working on? (3 Viewers)

[RWBeringer4x4]

The clustertruck has been relegated to the driveway so ye olde daily can get some much needed and long delayed love for its 150,000mi birthday. For those unfamiliar, since it’s not a Toyota, 150,000 mi is a lot.

Basically, the AC pooched in this thing about 2 years ago, it has a hit or miss MAF sensor, leaking power steering lines, a fried serpentine belt tensioner, and a few other gremlins. But 60% of the time it works, every time.

Things started out as you’d expect - with the removal of a mouse house that was living under my engine cover. The inhabitant met an gruesome end on my driveway last year when he tried to evacuate out the wheel well as I backed out of the driveway.

I assumed the compressor had seized up, since the clutch wouldn’t engage when I turned the AC on - turns out I probably could have saved myself a $400 compressor with a bit more diagnosis (yes, that’s both sides of the switch wire sitting on the ground...

From there, I had to pull the condenser - which involved pulling the air box, fan, shroud, radiator, and 6000 miscellaneous plastic shields. That said, I think I got my money’s worth out of this one:

That bottom row was hanging out of the bottom of the car...

since basically the whole AC system is being purged, figured now was as good a time as any to also replace the TXV for the AC system. Shout out and a special thank you to Ford/Mazda for putting it behind the glove box, just left of the fuse panel, completely obscured from view and wrapped in impossible to remove adhesive poly foam. Finding the bolt and two Allen screws upside down and blind was enlightening. Getting to the O-rings I need to replace back there, I’m sure, will be a rewarding and uplifting experience too...

long story short - I miss my 40, I hate hate hate plastic, and the 50,000 tiny cuts it creates, and I am very much not used to snap together cars. Turns out sometimes “just pull harder” is actually the right call...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well the next project for the 40 just manifested itself not 5 minutes ago. Driving back from the bank about 10mi from home, my brake rotor let go...(not kidding) limped it home driving a 3 pedal truck with one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Threw a new bolt in it to find the knuckle threads had totally stripped... the new bolt won’t tighten.

So - basically worst case scenario, now I need to find a DS 60 series knuckle (again) and pull the whole outer axle.

it would actually be a pretty easy spot to helicoil but I’m not sure I should trust that to a bolt that holds my brake caliper on...

thoughts from the peanut gallery?

 

[brian]

The rotor failed and wiped the caliper off the knuckle?

 

[VA.CRUISER]

Well the next project for the 40 just manifested itself not 5 minutes ago. Driving back from the bank about 10mi from home, my brake rotor let go...(not kidding) limped it home driving a 3 pedal truck with one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Threw a new bolt in it to find the knuckle threads had totally stripped... the new bolt won’t tighten.

So - basically worst case scenario, now I need to find a DS 60 series knuckle (again) and pull the whole outer axle.

it would actually be a pretty easy spot to helicoil but I’m not sure I should trust that to a bolt that holds my brake caliper on...

thoughts from the peanut gallery?

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Isn’t there enough room to use a bolt with a nut ? That’s what you do doing some brake upgrades on other Toyota’s

 

[shmukster]

Good luck finding another knuckle!!! Personally I would be OK with a helicoil repair done correctly. I might even have a HC kit here in that size I believe it's 12MM not sure what the pitch is offhand. Let me know what you plan to do in the meantime I'll look to see if I have a 12MM kit. Helicoil repairs are best in applications where the joint isn't gonna be constantly taken apart and reassembled. But- in those cases a light application of never-seiz goes a long way to prolong the integrity of that repair. Of course using a solid thread insert is the best way to go but I don't think there's enough meat in the ears of a knuckle to go that route. In any event keep me/us posted!!!!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Good luck finding another knuckle!!! Personally I would be OK with a helicoil repair done correctly. I might even have a HC kit here in that size I believe it's 12MM not sure what the pitch is offhand. Let me know what you plan to do in the meantime I'll look to see if I have a 12MM kit. Helicoil repairs are best in applications where the joint isn't gonna be constantly taken apart and reassembled. But- in those cases a light application of never-seiz goes a long way to prolong the integrity of that repair. Of course using a solid thread insert is the best way to go but I don't think there's enough meat in the ears of a knuckle to go that route. In any event keep me/us posted!!!!

Gary,

thanks for the offer, as always! May take you up on it, just need to do some digging as to 1. Any other structural damage to the knuckle 2. The style of threaded insert best suitable for this application - one where, unfortunately, the bolt is torqued pretty heavily and removed on a somewhat regular interval - I’ve used “EZ Lok” inserts in the past on a few things but they didn’t lock into place super positiviely (ie: I don’t trust them here). I’ve never used helicoils - but I was reading up on Timeserts last night - they seem like a decent option too (though, pricey). I may be able to borrow an installation kit for the timesert which would make it much more approachable price wise. Any experience with them? They seem like they’d be pretty sturdy in this application (since the caliper will need to come off every time I do a brake job).

but I really don’t have too much experience with either option.

Isn’t there enough room to use a bolt with a nut ? That’s what you do doing some brake upgrades on other Toyota’s

as far as I can tell no, the thought did cross mind though. The bolt head or nut would conflict with the rotor. I’d have to get creative, like countersinking the knuckle to recess a bolt head but I’d be real leery of the amount of “meat” leftover.

The rotor failed and wiped the caliper off the knuckle?

@brian as far as I can tell, no - the rotor seems to be where it should be though there is some damage around the outside edge. It seems like the upper caliper bolt just backed itself out and took the threads with it - not clear on why that would happen but if you look in the 60 series forum there’s at least one thread on several instances of the threads in the knuckle just giving up - it’s a 90ft lb application so maybe over time they just wear out?

I suspect the rotor damage around the rim happened after the caliper walked itself out and was hanging canted by the lower bolt. I expect I’ll find matching damage on bottom side of the caliper, or the caliper pin, where the rotor was trying to saw through it.

 

[shmukster]

Looks like those threads are 12x1.25. I don't have a helicoil set for that size. Sorry!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Looks like those threads are 12x1.25. I don't have a helicoil set for that size. Sorry!

no problem Gary thank you for checking!

 

[94krawler]

That's a fairly common size for caliper bolts on imports, and it's fairly problematic with it's fine thread. I've done numerous knuckles over the years at work and caliper bridges in a pinch. Green(permanent locktight) on the heli-coil insert and just a dab of anti seize on the bolt threads. I always prefer to use a flanged bolt where I can as it adds surface area at the bolt head to assist clamping and resist backing out.

 

[PAToyota]

Is there room to tap the hole a size larger?

 

[PAToyota]

I've been doing some painting this past week...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Is there room to tap the hole a size larger?

yes, but I’d also have to expand the hole in the lobe in the brake caliper too - if I’m going to go this route I’ll probably drill it out and install a time-sert or helicoil to bring it back down to the right size.

the caliper definitely took the rotor with it too, so I get to experience the joy of pulling my hubs and pressing all the studs out again.

should I consider the wheel studs “one time use?” ie: is the knurling on the stud typically considered compromised once installed? Obviously the lug nuts will be pulling everything in the right direction to hold everything together so my guess is they’re safe to reuse - but I’d like to make sure I’m not doing something blatantly unsafe/wrong.

 

[FuglyYota]

After much angst, its running and driving - around the neighborhood at least. Needs lots of finishing but it’s loud and does burnouts.

No longer a 327, it now has a 46k mile 350 Vortec roller cam motor. Stock long block, 4 barrel carb intake, Sniper EFI, headers, full MSD Ignition. Even with the stock cam, it’s more than enough to light up the tires in several gears.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

After much angst, its running and driving - around the neighborhood at least. Needs lots of finishing but it’s loud and does burnouts.

No longer a 327, it now has a 46k mile 350 Vortec roller cam motor. Stock long block, 4 barrel carb intake, Sniper EFI, headers, full MSD Ignition. Even with the stock cam, it’s more than enough to light up the tires in several gears.

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So wait what did I miss? What happened to the 327?

 

[FuglyYota]

So wait what did I miss? What happened to the 327?

This:

Best guess is that I either adjusted the #1 intake lifter too tight or it was a bad lifter. Ate itself on break in. Thought initially it was just an adjustment, but pulled oil pan and found metal. Because it didn’t run long it’s fine, but needed full clean out and start over. Didn’t feel like spending time doing that so sold it and bought a running low mileage motor instead.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

This:

View attachment 2655102

View attachment 2655103
Best guess is that I either adjusted the #1 intake lifter too tight or it was a bad lifter. Ate itself on break in. Thought initially it was just an adjustment, but pulled oil pan and found metal. Because it didn’t run long it’s fine, but needed full clean out and start over. Didn’t feel like spending time doing that so sold it and bought a running low mileage motor instead.

Yup, that's a problem...

I always wonder how much metal is "too much" at break-in. My truck had quite a bit the first few oil changes but so far no indication that it was anything serious. I imagine that was making some noise though...

Setback aside, glad to hear you're up and running! I think when I talked to you around this time last year you were planning on having it on the trails for 4th of July - so sounds like you might (sort of) hit that deadline!

 

[shmukster]

Everything I've read and been told tells me it's best to run a specific break in oil or concentrate in any rebuilt engine that doesn't have a roller cam. The lack of (I think) zinc in today's oils makes them not the best oil to use in a new engine. My engine guy has more than one story about customers wiping out a cam lobe or ruining a lifter by not using the recommended break in oil. In the literature that came with the camshaft we bought from Summit for our Pontiac engine rebuild it specifically mentioned using specific grades of oil and a brand name break-in concentrate. They also recommended not running the engine under 1500 RPM for the first 30 minutes of operation. We haven't fired our rebuilt engine yet and I'm a bit nervous about start up.

 

[Cass007]

Small victories .... I finally got around to replacing the rotted out handle for the upper hatch door on the LX.

Finally put the proper air filter nut on after using a wing nut for some years.

Also replaced the cracked door handle insert after 10 years ... but I broke the corner plastc on the window while removing the door panel, so more parts again.

The new speakers sound great, but the front fitment gaps the door panel near the speakers, so less than ideal. Also, I was very specific about not wanting the sub to sound like tin cans rattling and they assured me they could install sound deadening material ... nothing. About half of the push tabs to secure the rear interior panel were missing or broken and they cut the panel cubby without asking me ... WTF?!?!? Another example of poor attention to detail *heavy sigh*. I suppose I will add the sound deadening material when the interior gets done.

On a positive note, the Cammo truck is back and seems all good. Now I will know what symptoms to look for with the control arm bushings failing and will be able to see how long the bushings last.

 

[Cass007]

Brad Penn Oil is high in zinc. The tuner guys use it for break in on the high HP builds. The oil is almost green in color.

 

[FuglyYota]

Everything I've read and been told tells me it's best to run a specific break in oil or concentrate in any rebuilt engine that doesn't have a roller cam. The lack of (I think) zinc in today's oils makes them not the best oil to use in a new engine. My engine guy has more than one story about customers wiping out a cam lobe or ruining a lifter by not using the recommended break in oil. In the literature that came with the camshaft we bought from Summit for our Pontiac engine rebuild it specifically mentioned using specific grades of oil and a brand name break-in concentrate. They also recommended not running the engine under 1500 RPM for the first 30 minutes of operation. We haven't fired our rebuilt engine yet and I'm a bit nervous about start up.

We used the high zinc beak in additive per Comp Cams specs, used the correct cam assembly lube, pre-lubed the engine, etc. She had 50+ psi of oil pressure throughout, so that was never the issue. Break in was also per the cam instruction, varying RPM during break in for 20-25 minutes. Lifters all fit smooth in the bores, I don’t believe it was a machine shop issue at all. Dad is of the opinion that is was a bad lifter, the engine builder who bought the motor took one look and said too much preload on that lifter. Every other one was perfect, just that one and it’s cam lobe ate themselves. The good news is that I changed oil and filter immediately after break in, and then once again when I ran it after a valve adjustment, so that likely saved the motor. When it came apart, everything looked new and was, I would have changed the bearings, pressure washed the block, put in a new cam and went to town. But the roller cam motor kinda fell into place, and it’s got as good, if not arguably better heads and more accessory options. It’s also from a 2500hd and had a factory oil cooler, so I’m 90% sure it’s a 4 bolt main block. I haven’t pulled the pan, but I have a bore scope light so will check when I do the next oil change.