Purchasing my first 100 in Portland, OR and looking for a PPI (1 Viewer)

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Dean's car care usually has a lot of jdm toyo's and a lot of 60's there all the time, but idk about their 100 series knowledge.

There is a way to check dealer maintenance history using the vin, and you can crosscheck that with carfax to get a better history. You could just take it to the dealer for the ppi...
Very true. I’ll call a local dealer and see if I can schedule an appointment. Thanks for that idea
 
if your already coming up, here is a 99 LX470 , little over an hour from PDX, less miles, less money and clean title. ??



aside from that, I cant help with a dealer to PPI, other than maybe local Toyota Dealership
 
if your already coming up, here is a 99 LX470 , little over an hour from PDX, less miles, less money and clean title. ??



aside from that, I cant help with a dealer to PPI, other than maybe local Toyota Dealership
That looks good, but I really like the cruiser front end and the locker option, without AHC. Thanks for the link though!
 
I guess it depends on how intense you get with off-roading?

I owned a few Tacomas before buying my LX, one was the TRD with factory e-locker, the other was open diff 4x4. I took my Tacomas to a lot of places and only used the e-locker once. For about 10 seconds. In that one instance it really helped me out, but so would better tires than I had.

I have seen a lot of people, myself included, think they need everything to allow them to do anything. I blame “celebrity” off-road channels/writers that have super expensive built rigs that are paid for by sponsors.

Oh, also, plan on a few thousand dollars of important maintenance right off the bat. If you go somewhere where a locker is needed you will want to do all that work first because I doubt most freshly purchased 100s are ready for locker-necessary action.
 
I guess it depends on how intense you get with off-roading?

I owned a few Tacomas before buying my LX, one was the TRD with factory e-locker, the other was open diff 4x4. I took my Tacomas to a lot of places and only used the e-locker once. For about 10 seconds. In that one instance it really helped me out, but so would better tires than I had.

I have seen a lot of people, myself included, think they need everything to allow them to do anything. I blame “celebrity” off-road channels/writers that have super expensive built rigs that are paid for by sponsors.

Oh, also, plan on a few thousand dollars of important maintenance right off the bat. If you go somewhere where a locker is needed you will want to do all that work first because I doubt most freshly purchased 100s are ready for locker-necessary action.
Totally agree. I’ve built a few crawlers and wheel’d a bunch of gnarly stuff so this is just gonna be my DD/ overland car/ inclement weather vehicle. I’m more leaning towards the locked 100s because they didn’t have VSV or ATRAC, and I don’t really want to rely on a computer when I’m out wheeling, plus the locker actuator is easier to rebuild and cheaper than replacing or rebuilding the ABS system/ ATRAC
I like to keep it simple, Sam.
I tend to keep my rear locker engaged when I’m crawling and only engage the front before an obstacle, and I’ll prob plan to throw in an arb front locker to replace the weaker 2 pinion diff and then have the option to lock the front if I ever need it. But who knows, down the line I think it would be rad to built a long travel 100 with a coil over swap and LT arms from a 2nd gen tundra. But I’ll keep it mild for now.
Thanks for your input!
 
I think this detail will help a lot of people in the input they provide as far as purchase advice. Lots of people ask these same questions on Mud and have purchase “requirements” without real world experience and thus look for more than they need.

You have very sound and personal reasons, and more experience with locker required off-roading than I. The last thing I would chime in on is that the two Toyota dealer PPIs I have paid for were less than worthless.
 
I think this detail will help a lot of people in the input they provide as far as purchase advice. Lots of people ask these same questions on Mud and have purchase “requirements” without real world experience and thus look for more than they need.

You have very sound and personal reasons, and more experience with locker required off-roading than I. The last thing I would chime in on is that the two Toyota dealer PPIs I have paid for were less than worthless.
Very true, I spoke to a local dealer in Portland and their idea of a PPI was checking the tires and looking for rust. I could train a blind dog to check for that. And they also said it would take 4-6 hours.....
 
 
Skip the one in Columbia Motors.
Take a look at the ones we suggested.
There is a couple up here in Seattle.
I should have been more clear, I already put a down on this one, and unless something is terribly wrong, I won’t get that thousand dollars back. And I was also specifically looking for the earlier year 100s for a few reason but those all look like viable options.
If I miss anything and somehow this one breaks down on me I’ll fix it, I’m not too worried. I just love the color and it’s got everything I’ve been looking for, clean title or not.
 
Hopefully everything turns up fine.
I'm just weary about buying from dealers and rebuilt titles.
Keep us posted
I understand your concern. I guess it was a risk I thought worth taking, but I see it tomorrow and I’ll let you know if everything works out fine. Thanks for your input
 
I hope this works out too! I was pretty specific in my search but couldn’t drop $16gs on a super clean one. I spent about 6 months looking and finally found this one. It fit the bill (besides the rebuilt title) so we’ll see if this gamble pans out in my favor. I’ll keep you posted.


Well ???

How'd it go? If you picked it up and started South, you could almost be back in CA already??
 
Well ???

How'd it go? If you picked it up and started South, you could almost be back in CA already??
Big thanks to everyone who chimed in and gave a fellow mudder some valuable information and a HUGE shoutout to @Ayune for meeting up with me, giving me his knowledge and expertise, checking all the things I wouldn’t have seen, and being a friendly neighbor from a state away. I went ahead and purchased the vehicle for $10,090 knowing I was taking a gamble but when I learned the ABS system was replaced less than 100k miles ago and I saw the timing had been done about 90k miles ago I was relieved.
The vehicle is clean and in great working order (besides the misfire that started maybe 10 miles into the drive this morning lol- I had my code reader with me a found a misfire cylinder 1- coil pack so I fixed that at a local shop, cleared the code, and hit the road- been driving for about 300 miles now without issue)
It’s has an OME suspension, yielding about a 2” lift on 33” BFG ATs, rear and center lockers function very well. No leaks, no squeaks, no funny business. I’m excited to join the hundred club so thank you all again. I appreciate all your words.
 

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