Any pics for t/c shifter spacer.
Last edited:
Definitive 1" Body Lift How To (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CruiseOrlando
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
These are the part that I made. Tcase is just 1" square tube welded and drilled. The supports were cut patched and welded in. I used this for 50k ish miles. Decided to remove the 2" lift when I got sliders. If your interested in kit pm me. I've been meaning to sell it but haven't gotten around to getting pictures and posting it
My shifter keeps popping out of low range after my 1” body lift. Any recommendations on how to adjust it? Or is there a boot i need to cut. I saw a think on YouTube where a guy cut and rewelded the shaft. I weld so that could be easy for me. Any advise?
What year is yours?
1997
Here's what I did. Though I'm currently making a relocation bracket for my 4l80e swap.
That’s the same video i found on youtube
Awesome. I hope it's helpful. It isn't a great production, but there isn't much info in this area.
You might be able to make a spacer too, just make sure that you have enough extra linkage to make up the difference. Also, my 80 is a '91 so keep that in mind.
You might be able to make a spacer too, just make sure that you have enough extra linkage to make up the difference. Also, my 80 is a '91 so keep that in mind.
I’ll start taking it apart this weekend and see if i can identify why it’s nocking out and the easiest way to solve it
Amazon product ASIN B0013HLZSA
I bought this stick and cut it 1 inch increments and drilled a hole in the center, used it as a spacer to lift the bracket up. Brought it back to the original spot. You could also adjust rod but it's a better result with the spacers.
Last edited:
i like this idea. Did you need longer bolts?
Look at Kamzee post #42.
Yes longer bolts
so just to confirm you added spacers on the 4 bolts under the base of the s***er to compensate for the body lift.
This material is better handled on a lathe.
But if you're careful you can pretty much get it Square on a chop saw and drill the hell didn't the vice
But if you're careful you can pretty much get it Square on a chop saw and drill the hell didn't the vice
Yes, if you have a lathe it's easier to work with this material. You could still do it with a saw and drill.
For those doing more than a 1” BL, this old thread of mine might be useful
forum.ih8mud.com
T case spacers for 2" body lift
Finished A spacer for mounting the shifter base to the transfer case after the body lift. Found a couple of peices of scrap If you go this route, remember the lower hole needs to be drilled big enough for the pin/bolt to move Also included some pics of other options from other builds
forum.ih8mud.com
For those doing more than a 1” BL, this old thread of mine might be useful
T case spacers for 2" body lift
Finished A spacer for mounting the shifter base to the transfer case after the body lift. Found a couple of peices of scrap If you go this route, remember the lower hole needs to be drilled big enough for the pin/bolt to move Also included some pics of other options from other builds
actually that helps for my 1”. Thank you
I have also seen some builds where they leave the mounting with no change, but “Z” the shifter rod by cutting it, and welding a 1”-1.5”-2” spacer between the cut ends.
seems I recently saw a T-case shifter rod somewhere in my parts pile when I was considering this option. Free to anybody wants to experiment & pay postage
Last edited:
Wait, just reread my own post
“Z’ing” the shifter rod, would be after spacers were used to lift the shifter up through the floor. The shifter rod would be “Z’ed” rather than the shifter arm extended.
Never mind me, the 70’s were not kind to my memory !!
