What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (28 Viewers)

[highkick05]

Part of my radio screen failed so I installed this last night.View attachment 2526157

Need to re-drill the stock brackets since I’m using the furthest stock holes to push it out. Hoping to get it so I can re-use the trim while still being able to re-attach the giant screen.

you can definitely get it in closer by just drilling new holes in the brackets. my joying could probably even go a few more mm in, but I just left it so it doesn't push up on anything. Looking sweet man What type of unit? looks like a Daisata or similar

 

[bdobyns]

Well, developed a squeak that wouldn't stop. Determined that it was coming from both the upper and lower ball joints. The lowers are stock and the uppers are spc add ons from the ome suspension upgrade, previous generation meaning no zerks. Found good prices at Wheelers for the new spc joints, with zerks and the lowers from rock auto, with zerks. In the meantime, got the needle fitting for the grease gun...squeak is gone. Just having a good time.

 

[Whoareu2200]

Teaching my son to grease u joints, driveline and change oil in different and transfercase right now. Damn, skids are heavy.

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What series and how does it sound the exhaust

 

[MDK]

get a massive flathead screwdriver and leaver the caliper apart while its on?, seen a mechanic do it before. IF they are the right pads should go in

Definitely the right pads. I’m gonna pull it soon and try to fix.

 

[bdobyns]

What series and how does it sound the exhaust

100 series and the exhaust is very mellow with enough feedback when you step on it to let you know its a v8.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Had a busy four-day thanksgiving work plan that turned into two weeks. It all started by spending the month prior to get all the part numbers and parts together.

Work included:

• Re-replacing upper and lower main radiator hoses.
  • Previous replacements from Napa seemed to have shrunk over the few months of being installed and were pulling off the nipples so I replaced with OEM.
• Disassembled the entire front end for some needed maintenance and cleaned up 20 years of grim and abuse.
  • This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
• Replaced all UCA LCA bushings with OEM.
  • The UCA really sucked and would 1000% just buy new next time.
• Replaced both outer TRE's.
• Replaced UCA and LCA ball joints with 555
  • Shout out to @cruiseroutfit for supplying the parts and the cool stickers.
• Disassembled, cleaned, and corrected some damage to the hub and steering knuckles and reassembled with all new bearings/races, seals, and grease.
  • Shout out to @Onur for making this possible and more cool stickers.
• Re-indexed torsion bars.
• Replaced power steering low pressure suction/return hoses, flushed system, and treated with AT-205.
• Had the ECU flashed to program new keys.
  • Shout out to @Mauser for all the help.
• Installed an extension on the AC drain.
• Replaced front shocks.
• Replaced the main fuse box gasket.

Unfortunately, I did find that the ABS ring on the PS hub was damaged (and I forgot to take a picture); likely in the last "service" ~20k miles ago. My hope is that the damage is not a part of my random VSC issue and that the VSC issue is related more to the worn steering/UCA/LCA bushings, UCA/LCA/TRE ball joints, and large snap ring gaps of 0.8mm and 0.72mm. With all the new parts and the new snap ring gaps of ~0.06mm my fingers are crossed that it tests alright. If not, looks like I get to practice removing the hub again.

 

[Eyedaho]

I installed my Prinsu roof rack tonight. No pics, since I finished in the dark. I ordered it on a black friday deal, it drop shipped from Idaho Falls yesterday evening, arrived at my house late this afternoon, and I got it installed as the light faded. My initial impressions are that it's a quality product with clear instructions, and it seems like it's going to be very solid and adaptable.

 

[highkick05]

I have no idea if USA has models with no filters being manufactured.

Link: Toyota LandCruiser 100 Series Cabin Air Filter 1998-2007 – Cabin Air Filters

Email this guy if you want one: keith@cabinairfilters.com.au. I'm sure he could work out some sort of delivery option.

 

[Travis Bickle]

Had a busy four-day thanksgiving work plan that turned into two weeks. It all started by spending the month prior to get all the part numbers and parts together.

View attachment 2526747

Work included:

• Re-replacing upper and lower main radiator hoses.
  • Previous replacements from Napa seemed to have shrunk over the few months of being installed and were pulling off the nipples so I replaced with OEM.
• Disassembled the entire front end for some needed maintenance and cleaned up 20 years of grim and abuse.
  • This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
• Replaced all UCA LCA bushings with OEM.
  • The UCA really sucked and would 1000% just buy new next time.
• Replaced both outer TRE's.
• Replaced UCA and LCA ball joints with 555
  • Shout out to @cruiseroutfit for supplying the parts and the cool stickers.
• Disassembled, cleaned, and corrected some damage to the hub and steering knuckles and reassembled with all new bearings/races, seals, and grease.
  • Shout out to @Onur for making this possible and more cool stickers.
• Re-indexed torsion bars.
• Replaced power steering low pressure suction/return hoses, flushed system, and treated with AT-205.
• Had the ECU flashed to program new keys.
  • Shout out to @Mauser for all the help.
• Installed an extension on the AC drain.
• Replaced front shocks.
• Replaced the main fuse box gasket.

View attachment 2526749

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Unfortunately, I did find that the ABS ring on the PS hub was damaged (and I forgot to take a picture); likely in the last "service" ~20k miles ago. My hope is that the damage is not a part of my random VSC issue and that the VSC issue is related more to the worn steering/UCA/LCA bushings, UCA/LCA/TRE ball joints, and large snap ring gaps of 0.8mm and 0.72mm. With all the new parts and the new snap ring gaps of ~0.06mm my fingers are crossed that it tests alright. If not, looks like I get to practice removing the hub again.

Yeah I bet you're going to need a new ABS ring.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Yeah I bet you're going to need a new ABS ring.

Yea, I am kinda expecting it at this point. There isn't a way to replace just the ring right? Only option is to replace the whole hub I believe.

 

[chudly]

Love the stance on the rig, what lift? and offset on the wheels? Tire Size? My buddy just got his first LC, an 04 and is starting the build list now.

315/75/16 16x8 +10
OME heavies with 863 springs

 

[Pahizzl]

More details

More details please

you can definitely get it in closer by just drilling new holes in the brackets. my joying could probably even go a few more mm in, but I just left it so it doesn't push up on anything. Looking sweet man What type of unit? looks like a Daisata or similar

I picked up the Eonon brand 10.1” 4GB. Shipped from Jersey pretty fast and came with an OBD2 scanner and 2 cameras and has CarPlay built-in. The screen tilts, but the resolution isn’t very high compared to others out there. I personally like the bigger fonts and icons.

If you use the stock bracket locations to mount this thing up, the HU will be too sunken in to allow you to slip on the screen. Using the stock bracket holes, there's about 1/2" gap between the HU and the aftermarket radio garnish I had. The dimples on the stock bracket make perfect drill bit guides. Drilled out all of them then shifted the brackets back securing only the rear of the HU.

I laugh because of how perfect everything lined up while pushing the (free-floating) garnish against the console AND I had just enough space to slip the screen back on.

 

[Mike NXP]

Fixed some burnt up wires from my ARB wiring loom for intensity lights. ARB has some good warranty and sent me out a replacement harness.

 

[custyota]

View attachment 2526747

Work included:

• Re-replacing upper and lower main radiator hoses.
  • Previous replacements from Napa seemed to have shrunk over the few months of being installed and were pulling off the nipples so I replaced with OEM.
• Disassembled the entire front end for some needed maintenance and cleaned up 20 years of grim and abuse.
  • This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
• Replaced all UCA LCA bushings with OEM.
  • The UCA really sucked and would 1000% just buy new next time.
• Replaced both outer TRE's.
• Replaced UCA and LCA ball joints with 555
  • Shout out to @cruiseroutfit for supplying the parts and the cool stickers.
• Disassembled, cleaned, and corrected some damage to the hub and steering knuckles and reassembled with all new bearings/races, seals, and grease.
  • Shout out to @Onur for making this possible and more cool stickers.
• Re-indexed torsion bars.
• Replaced power steering low pressure suction/return hoses, flushed system, and treated with AT-205.
• Had the ECU flashed to program new keys.
  • Shout out to @Mauser for all the help.
• Installed an extension on the AC drain.
• Replaced front shocks.
• Replaced the main fuse box gasket.

With all that you should of just replaced the cv axles while you were in there if they were not newer already and the steering rack. Nice job!

 

[ElJayDeBay]

I am attempting to do the front diff seal. Again. I am stuck on this caliper bolt. Breaker bar with 3 ft cheater started stripping it so tapped out earlier this week. After 3 days of PB Blaster sprays and buying the Milwaukee 2767-20, I went for a 20 minute drive to warm it up and was certain I’d be good. Nope, that still didn't get it off. I'm calling for back up. It is in the hands of my buddy and his welder now...

 

[awesomeissquid]

View attachment 2526747
With all that you should of just replaced the cv axles while you were in there if they were not newer already and the steering rack. Nice job!

Yea...the axles should have been done, but I was trying to avoid dropping another grand in parts. The boots are oozing a bit and when I went to re-clamp I found they are starting to crack so I decided against touching that for the time being. My plan is to run them until either the boots fail or the next wheel bearing service when I will replace them and do new flanges as well. As for the steering rack, it seems to be holding up so I will wait until it is leaking like a sieve before going down that path.

 

[MDK]

Did the pads wear evenly side to side?
Inboard usually wears faster
Did pistons compress easily?
How were they compressed?
A screw driver pry bar leveraged against pad and rotor can cock a piston or roll a seal.
Is fluid contaminated?
Contaminated fluid can cause seals to swell and roll when piston is compressed. Pistons will not retract when brake pedal is not depressed.
Were springs reinstalled?
Is a hose restricted from contaminated fluid? Twisted or hung by when removing repacking hub and rotor replacement?

1. The inboard pads had more wear. The rear passenger side inboard pad was the worst, that was the picture I included - worn down to bare metal.
2. No I used a 6” C clamp and brute force.
3. Not sure how to answer that.
4. Agreed. Didn’t feel good about prying anything. Was going to pull the wheel and caliper off again and revisit.
5. I don’t believe it is. I’ve had it flushed/replaced within the past 6 months.
6. Springs?
7. Rear drivers side rotor did take a tumble when I was shuffling things around and hung by the hose. Said a “darn it” in repentance and buttoned everything back up.

I’m no mechanic. Just doing stuff in my driveway. First time doing pads + rotors.

 

[yngmrostrvile]

1. The inboard pads had more wear. The rear passenger side inboard pad was the worst, that was the picture I included - worn down to bare metal.
2. No I used a 6” C clamp and brute force.
3. Not sure how to answer that.
4. Agreed. Didn’t feel good about prying anything. Was going to pull the wheel and caliper off again and revisit.
5. I don’t believe it is. I’ve had it flushed/replaced within the past 6 months.
6. Springs?
7. Rear drivers side rotor did take a tumble when I was shuffling things around and hung by the hose. Said a “darn it” in repentance and buttoned everything back up.

I’m no mechanic. Just doing stuff in my driveway. First time doing pads + rotors.

If the piston was difficult to compress did you try cracking the bleeder to see if it compresses more easily? If it does the hose has a restriction.
Do the slides that the caliper is bolted to move in and out of the bracket freely? Did you clean up and relube?

 

[J1000]

Decided to get ahead of Covid 2021 and installed a WeBoost cell booster and upped my data to unlimited. Used code MUDWEBOOST and see this thread: WeBoost & Wilson Pro Cell Boosters - Code "MUDWEBOOST" at "AllTechSource.com" - Ends Nov. 31, 2020

I saw that there are a couple open-box systems on Amazon also: https://amzn.to/3mxyMyW

 

[MDK]

If the piston was difficult to compress did you try cracking the bleeder to see if it compresses more easily? If it does the hose has a restriction.
Do the slides that the caliper is bolted to move in and out of the bracket freely? Did you clean up and relube?

Opening the bleeder did help. I guess that’s not good news. Planning on ordering Slee lines soon, but hearing/feeling it rub hurts me deep in my soul. Weather is awful right now but I’ll crack it open to see if I can fix.