Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (3 Viewers)

[ratpin]

I bought my truck primarily for the OG burnt freeborn paint. Its cleaning up nicely. They only original once!

 

[wngrog]

amen. Beautiful red

 

[wngrog]

I believe this is my favorite thread on the whole site.

 

[Danforth]

Lately, I had to tear the headliner out of one of the cruisers. Mice had gone above via the posts rising from the rear of the hood, and for generations after, had lived the libertine life atop the headliner. I couldn't believe it. Had no idea that was possible. First thing I always do when I get a car or truck is screen off air and other passages, but the posts never entered my mind. Should have, I guess. The posts are tunnels. Should have been obvious. It would be a mistake to block the posts, because that would trap water.

I own a dozer, and mice like to set up house in the huge "armrest" battery and tool box storage area. They never ever show up in the other side, which houses hydraulics and is always coated inside with oily muck. To discourage mice on the tool box side,, I took to spraying chain oil or aerosol grease onto those interior surfaces.

Has anyone noticed mice traversing or entering confined areas that have been sprayed with Fluid Film or similar non-drying coatings that are discussed here? Fluid Film is lanolin based and they might hold that in higher esteem than petroleum products or lithium grease.
Installing small grommets in the headliner, or just making a small puncture in the headliner and securing from rips with a hole-punched, appropriate Tear-Aid patch , inserting the spray tube, and spraying into the inaccessible posts from there might save guys a fortune and a lot of trouble.

What say you guys?

 

[projectTuRD]

At kind of a crossroads here. As much as I like the patina trend, I’m torn on my bare metal spots on my door, from previous bodywork. Do I season them for a winter, then halt forward progress with treatment, or try to blend them in with ‘color matched’ spray paint?...
They’re not what I would call normal wear and tear spots, so they don’t look really natural to let rust.
Am I being too picky?

 

[wngrog]

That truck needs paint.

 

[projectTuRD]

That truck needs paint.

The rear quarters, yes. I should have clarified I was concerned about the door.

 

[Dizzy]

I like it the way it is. However, the rear quarter might get grey rattle primer over the body filler? That is just my aesthetic. Kinda inspired from watching the FJ Company resto videos on YouTube - their lineup of awaiting rigs with of mismatching body panels, and, later, raw steel, is appropriately austere for a Land Cruiser. Trying to actually match the original paint is one step beyond what I would try.

I don't think that it will rust if it is treated well.

 

[projectTuRD]

I like it the way it is. However, the rear quarter might get grey rattle primer over the body filler? That is just my aesthetic. Kinda inspired from watching the FJ Company resto videos on YouTube - their lineup of awaiting rigs with of mismatching body panels, and, later, raw steel, is appropriately austere for a Land Cruiser. Trying to actually match the original paint is one step beyond what I would try.

I don't think that it will rust if it is treated well.

I’m still working on the quarter, trying to get all the filler off. I think they wanted to smooth out the factory weld spots so they coated the whole side. If that’s the case, I’m going to primer in red, spray the whole quarter In Capri, and try to ‘distress’ it a little to match the rest of the truck.

 

[keith88250]

I think Capri blue one of the best colors Toyota ever used...
looking awesome

 

[newtrout]

I'm so glad I found this thread. I've been out of the cruiser game for a while, and recently picked up this '77 from southern California. Strangely, it has three little rust pinholes in the hood, but is really solid otherwise. Looks like the hood was replaced at some point. Looks like there is primer and a different paint quality. Even the rear sill is free of rot. I'm in love with the patina, and want to preserve it as is. These photos are before I touched it. I've since hit it with CLR, and used rust converter and fluid film underneath. Now I'm going to hit the good paint and roof with Griots, and then Penetrol. Oh how I missed owning an FJ40...

Any suggestions on how to polish the paint in the vicinity of the patina? I don't want to get too close to the patina, so I couldn't hit many of the small areas. Am I better off skipping the Griots and just applying Penetrol?

 

[wngrog]

I'm so glad I found this thread. I've been out of the cruiser game for a while, and recently picked up this '77 from southern California. Strangely, it has three little rust pinholes in the hood, but is really solid otherwise. Looks like the hood was replaced at some point. Looks like there is primer and a different paint quality. Even the rear sill is free of rot. I'm in love with the patina, and want to preserve it as is. These photos are before I touched it. I've since hit it with CLR, and used rust converter and fluid film underneath. Now I'm going to hit the good paint and roof with Griots, and then Penetrol. Oh how I missed owning an FJ40...

Any suggestions on how to polish the paint in the vicinity of the patina? I don't want to get too close to the patina, so I couldn't hit many of the small areas. Am I better off skipping the Griots and just applying Penetrol?


View attachment 2479668View attachment 2479669View attachment 2479670

looks ready to preserve now. Glad you are saving it.

 

[newtrout]

Current 'after' photos. My only regret is the two locations on the hood where I used rust converter. Those areas are completely black, as others have described. I love the rest of it where I just used CLR, Griots and Penetrol. I actually used Griots on several of the areas with patina, and I like the effect. The Penetrol is pretty glossy for now, but I think that can be toned down.

Now I'm sorting a leaky radiator and a gauge cluster that isn't playing well with the SBC.

 

[wngrog]

Pimp. Great work.

 

[middlecalf]

Great work, love the look. As far as rust converter, I don’t believe it’s UV stable - may depend on the brand, what I use isn’t - so it will eventually break down (unless overcoated with something) so then you could readdress it with your preferred CLR, et al, approach.

 

[Bloomer]

Tempted to give patina preservation a go.

 

[wngrog]

Those of you that have used Penetrol.

I have the spots on my FJ55 hood that are not as rough as my other patina trucks that the Fluid Film does not really soak into.

I’d like to try my first Penetrol.

Any tips/tricks?

 

[tc01]

Any tips for rear sill holes like mine below? Should I sand down the rust blisters until I reach bare metal and then rust converter? I don't have any power tools for sanding, but I assume I'll be ok by hand? I've already taken CLR with a scotchbrite to it as much as I can and it already looks better but I realize scotchbrite might not be enough for this

Also, any tips for preserving pinstripes? Fluid film?

 

[wngrog]

Sometimes the pinstripes will soak up some oil. Leave it on heavy for a bit before you wipe it off.

My sill looked similar. I treated it with rust converter and spray with fluid film. I also used metal filler to keep new elements out

 

[Dizzy]

Any tips for rear sill holes like mine below? Should I sand down the rust blisters until I reach bare metal and then rust converter? I don't have any power tools for sanding, but I assume I'll be ok by hand? I've already taken CLR with a scotchbrite to it as much as I can and it already looks better but I realize scotchbrite might not be enough for this

View attachment 2516088
View attachment 2516089

Also, any tips for preserving pinstripes? Fluid film?

How does it look at the two bolts at the front of the rear floor? A rotten sill probably ruined my floor pan body mounts there.