Builds 2UZFE swap into FJ80 - building - in progress (1 Viewer)

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VERY interested to hear about / watch your build. I really want this to be the next improvement I make to my '96 FJZ80! I'm pretty much done with making repairs to the 1FZ. If it ever blows a HG, it's just gonna sit until the 2UZ goes in.

That being said, I was noticing your comments about the fuel pump, lines, etc., and I wondered if a product I just used on my Holley Sniper conversion on my FJ60 might also work in this application? It's a really simple idea, and it made the Sniper-to-fuel tank connections REALLY simple. Let me know what you think..........

This PowerSurge pump is really cool and I would go with this if I can't make some parts work together from the Sequoia donor. On my FJ (3FE) a couple of rods broke in cylinders 5 and 6 and as a result, part of the cam blew out the side of the block. Never saw anything like it so that was grounds for the V8 swap.
 
You should start your own build thread for this swap. I know there would be quite a few folks that would follow along and help if you hit road blocks.
I started a thread a new thread:
 
Not really sure since my 91 came with a 3FE and that motor was gutless to begin with where I live. I hope to get 275 or more hp out of the 2uz. The 3FE and a440f are beasts built to last.
2uz is 230hp. 3fe is 155hp. So that's like 80hp gain over a 3fe. 20 more hp than a 1fz naturally aspirated. But I don't know what a 2uz swap costs so was just curious what the swap will cost and then u can calculate hp per dollar gain.
 
2uz is 230hp. 3fe is 155hp. So that's like 80hp gain over a 3fe. 20 more hp than a 1fz naturally aspirated. But I don't know what a 2uz swap costs so was just curious what the swap will cost and then u can calculate hp per dollar gain.
I've done this numbers comparison before myself. That being said, there's NO comparison in usable power in a Land Cruiser with a 2UZ vs one with a 1FZ. It's strange, because the numbers are so similar; however, while EVERYONE with a 1FZ complains about how gutless it is, I've NEVER heard anyone complain about their 100.

Granted, you could get a LOT more / cheaper power from an LS swap.......but there's just something about a Toyota product with a Toyota V8 in it! To me, a sorted 80 with a 2UZ, and either an a343F or a750F, would be the best Land Cruiser Toyota never built!
 
I've done this numbers comparison before myself. That being said, there's NO comparison in usable power in a Land Cruiser with a 2UZ vs one with a 1FZ. It's strange, because the numbers are so similar; however, while EVERYONE with a 1FZ complains about how gutless it is, I've NEVER heard anyone complain about their 100.

Granted, you could get a LOT more / cheaper power from an LS swap.......but there's just something about a Toyota product with a Toyota V8 in it! To me, a sorted 80 with a 2UZ, and either an a343F or a750F, would be the best Land Cruiser Toyota never built!
How much does a 2uz swap cost? The 2uz motors do have like 50ftlbs more torque than a 1fz, so maybe thats where it really makes a significant difference.
 
I own both 96 lx450 and 98 100. The 100 has way more usable power for everyday driving. Doesn't feel underpowered like my lx. But my lx feels 100 times more rugged, like it can go anywhere and not break.
 
I think you could do this build for about 4500 to 5K especially if you can do most of your own work. From what I read seems like a 15K or more job from a shop. I think the most expensive thing for me will be the exhaust since that's where I'll get that extra horsepower
 
I think you could do this build for about 4500 to 5K especially if you can do most of your own work. From what I read seems like a 15K or more job from a shop. I think the most expensive thing for me will be the exhaust since that's where I'll get that extra horsepower
I see 2uz Motors everywhere I have two of them now for 1200 that's also including an entire Sequoia donor.
 
Digging up this thread for the new decade. I will aim start my 2uzfe/5 speed swap come fall of 2020.

My rig is a 1994, triple locked, ff axle,little tank, with a OME lift and 35's, just to provide some background. From reading this thread for the better part of a year, I think I know the parts/donor I will need to accomplish it but still have a few questions.

1. What is the best donor to harvest every single major component of the swap from as one unit? (Engine, trans, ecu, harness, etc...)
2. Will an A750F work with a non vvti 2uzfe?
3. Will the stock dash guages work with the new ecu?
4. Is it better just to install an aftermarket ecu, rather than the stock one?

Thanks you guys for the knowledge in this thread.
 
Who is going to be doing the work? If you are doing the work, you are going to need to know how to answer these questions before you can start. IMO.

Digging up this thread for the new decade. I will aim start my 2uzfe/5 speed swap come fall of 2020.

My rig is a 1994, triple locked, ff axle,little tank, with a OME lift and 35's, just to provide some background. From reading this thread for the better part of a year, I think I know the parts/donor I will need to accomplish it but still have a few questions.

1. What is the best donor to harvest every single major component of the swap from as one unit? (Engine, trans, ecu, harness, etc...)
2. Will an A750F work with a non vvti 2uzfe?
3. Will the stock dash guages work with the new ecu?
4. Is it better just to install an aftermarket ecu, rather than the stock one?

Thanks you guys for the knowledge in this thread.
 
Who is going to be doing the work? If you are doing the work, you are going to need to know how to answer these questions before you can start. IMO.

I agree, and I think I do have most of the answers but I just wanted to see if there was a clear cut consensus on the best donor.
The plan is to pick up an ‘06 Tundra for the vvti and A750F compatibly. Where my real questions are is in regards to the ecu’s, and the best donor to scavenge one from.
And from what I managed to learn on the A750f will work pretty well with the HF2AV and the existing trans tunnel.
 
Dimensionally the A750F is the same as the A343 so that should not be an issues, as for ECU's the best is likely going to be a 100 series that had the A750F, but it will have an immobilizer. Using the later model Tundra ECU you will have to use a DBW pedal, which you might have to do depending on what TB you have on the donor engine.

I agree, and I think I do have most of the answers but I just wanted to see if there was a clear cut consensus on the best donor.
The plan is to pick up an ‘06 Tundra for the vvti and A750F compatibly. Where my real questions are is in regards to the ecu’s, and the best donor to scavenge one from.
And from what I managed to learn on the A750f will work pretty well with the HF2AV and the existing trans tunnel.
 
Dimensionally the A750F is the same as the A343 so that should not be an issues, as for ECU's the best is likely going to be a 100 series that had the A750F, but it will have an immobilizer. Using the later model Tundra ECU you will have to use a DBW pedal, which you might have to do depending on what TB you have on the donor engine.
Thanks for the info, I’m still a few months away from beginning the build but it definitely seems I need to look into the immobilizer from the 100 series and how to overcome it.
Thanks again
 
Anyone working on a Toyota V8 swap right now? I am just about to start compiling information / parts for a swap into my FJ60. I have decided to go with a 1UZ/H55F for simplicity sake. More HP/less torque than a 2UZ, but (a) it's a little lighter with the aluminum block, and (b) it doesn't seem to be as problematic from a wiring / ECU perspective. Aftermarket support seems to be much better on these also.

I'm still leaning toward a 2UZ in my 80. Not sure why, but that seems to be a better option when mating up to an A343 automatic.
 
Anyone working on a Toyota V8 swap right now? I am just about to start compiling information / parts for a swap into my FJ60. I have decided to go with a 1UZ/H55F for simplicity sake. More HP/less torque than a 2UZ, but (a) it's a little lighter with the aluminum block, and (b) it doesn't seem to be as problematic from a wiring / ECU perspective. Aftermarket support seems to be much better on these also.

I'm still leaning toward a 2UZ in my 80. Not sure why, but that seems to be a better option when mating up to an A343 automatic.


I am getting the final parts together, and getting ready to make space in the garage for the 2uz swap into the 80.
 
I am getting the final parts together, and getting ready to make space in the garage for the 2uz swap into the 80.
I'm finalizing my 80 2uz swap.. had to fab up an intake. Gave up with the wiring and just going to have North West Toys down in OR handle the wiring adapters for the harness to support the 2uz. I'll have to update my list of things I did to get this far. The goal now is to have it done for the Gambler 500

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I'm finalizing my 80 2uz swap.. had to fab up an intake. Gave up with the wiring and just going to have North West Toys down in OR handle the wiring adapters for the harness to support the 2uz. I'll have to update my list of things I did to get this far. The goal now is to have it done for the Gambler 500

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Man, that is a REALLY clean looking installation! I'd be really interested to learn as much information as you're willing to provide, regarding techniques, parts used, what works / what doesn't, etc. There's just no clean "road map" out there on the best way to go about doing this swap (not that I've been able to find anyway)
 

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