40 Help: Now the 2nd Life's Story (1 Viewer)

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It’s probably the switch is corroded.
 
The hand brake (emergency/parking brake) may need to be adjusted, may be coated with gear lube due to a leaking seal, or may need new shoes. They never work very well. I think I have a set of shoes is you need them and I also have a spare but ratty FSM you can have.
 
Lotsa reasons hand brakes don't work on a 40. One of the most overlooked is the adjustment of the cable pull under the dash and against the firewall. This can be a real SOB to adjust as it's not in a particularly readily accessible area. You can see it but it's not easy to make an adjustment. This is the adjustment that really dictates how far the actual cable inside the sheath moves the shoes inside the drum. Yes there is an adjustment at the drum that is very easy to make. And the comments about oily and worn shoes are valid. If you feel comfortable taking the brake mechanism apart have a new set of shoes ready to install, that will maximize your chance to get the brake working. It'll be interesting to see what you find. Good luck!
 
The hand brake (emergency/parking brake) may need to be adjusted, may be coated with gear lube due to a leaking seal, or may need new shoes. They never work very well. I think I have a set of shoes is you need them and I also have a spare but ratty FSM you can have.
The handbrake on your 40 works. I believe that guy responded to a post from back when we had the BJ with no handbrake
 
The hand brake is a piece of work. Works completely different than most. Mine required a rebuild. Kit is about $200 bucks and 2 hrs labor
That message was about a BJ that is long gone haha
 
The hand brake (emergency/parking brake) may need to be adjusted, may be coated with gear lube due to a leaking seal, or may need new shoes. They never work very well. I think I have a set of shoes is you need them and I also have a spare but ratty FSM you can have.
I will definitely take the ratty FSM. Be a lot better than looking thru pictures of the FSM put into a PDF
 
The master @emorth was generous enough to bless the headlights and make them start working again. The fuse just needed his touch I guess.. also helped me figure out the horn as well, and the turn signal situation!
I was hoping to also swap the headlamps to the new ones today as well, but my cousin ordered the wrong thing... so going to order the koto H4 upgrade

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I am a bit of a fool learning as I do something haha..
So I took off everything for the headlight on passenger side yesterday. Today I realized all I need to do is remove the retaining clip to get the headlight out.. The IPFs are still a bit too fat to fit, but at least I learned something.

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Koito h4 wired up.
Question: wouldn't it make them brighter if it plugged into both factory connections and had the relays instead of splitting just one connections to both lights?
Could I have just plugged them straight into the factory connections instead of using the harness that came with?

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The relays are switching power to the lights from the battery. The OEM headlight plug controls the relays.
To add to that, the addition of the harness and relays relieves the switch of the burden of having all the power to the lights go through it and simplifies the circuit to the lights.
 
Yep. If I remember correctly (another senior moment) I think he had between 9 - 10V at the headlights with the OEM wiring. :frown:
Yea it down near 8... so if I test it now it should be closer to 12v is not 12 right? Since it's getting power directly from the battery and going thru a new harness.
 
Found a new leak today.. this maybe 1week old at most. Is my worst case just not having power steering this weekend? Would it cause any other major problems to the power steering?
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you know what they say. If a cruiser isn't leaking oil you better check it because its probably out. I had my 40 in my house garage replacing the spring hangers and noticed my tcase wasn't leaking. hmm guess I better check it. 2 quarts later its full lol.
 

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