Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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New fan might have been a less stressful resolution. Plus that's 24 year old, many times heat cycled plastic. I think there's even a higher CFM fan that was used for the trucks that were supercharged?

Yes. Yes, it would. I haven't even broken that nut free and certainly doesn't look like the fan will just "lift off" even if that nut isn't there.

Do you have a part number for the higher CFM fan, did a little searching but kept getting the clutch?
 
AISIN FNT004
OEM 16361-66020

Not sure about the ringed version.

Edit: Ringed blade
Aisin FNT-011
OEM 16361-65010

Info here. Worth the read. I think @cruiserdan ended up going back to the non-ringed fan in the end but I didn't read through the whole thing.

 
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AISIN FNT004
OEM 16361-66020

Not sure about the ringed version.

Edit: Ringed blade
Aisin FNT-011
OEM 16361-65010

Info here. Worth the read. I think @cruiserdan ended up going back to the non-ringed fan in the end but I didn't read through the whole thing.


Thanks. Have the tools now to hopefully keep going, but if for some reason it continues to stymie me I'll order the fan. $23 from rock auto...should have just got it as a whole kit with the new clutch/hardware from wit's end. :bang:

The lesson I learn repeatedly is if you can buy new hardware for these tasks. Just do it. If you can buy an AISIN, DENSO, etc part for cheap that saves time in the grand scheme of things. JUST DO IT FROM THE ONSET. At 252,000 miles NONE of the original parts owe me anything and it being a non-southwest truck neither do the nuts and bolts I'm removing half the time.
 
Wit's end fan clutch swap...

Forums/facebook posts - "10 min job" (maybe for California trucks as usual)

**immediately rounds off last nut on old clutch with no contingency plan or tools in play, has to go to home depot and buy extractor socket set and dremel cut off wheel and then leave all the s*** in the garage to come back to because work takes up the majority of the day meanwhile the cruiser is sitting once again because I still haven't had time to work on it**

Usual feeling when I do anything myself on this thing:
I feel the pain... I used my cut off wheel and tap and die set more than I used socket drivers on most work on my truck
 
I think my atlas transfer case has been spitting out Amsoil for years based on the thick silty layer on oily dirt on the crossmember. Some RVT on the speedo cable plug and problem solved!
 
Installing dual seals on my machined speedo housing (thanks Ryan!). Got it back on along with the parking brake and drum torqued to spec. Now the speedo gear isn't sliding in and seating. Is there any truck to feeling that thing in? Should it slide back in easily? I lubed it up with gear oil and it just feels like it's binding up.

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I warm up lunch under the hood a lot.

Once, while on the trail, I thought I kept smelling cat food.

The salmon I was warming up was dripping on the manifold! :doh:
 
Installing dual seals on my machined speedo housing (thanks Ryan!). Got it back on along with the parking brake and drum torqued to spec. Now the speedo gear isn't sliding in and seating. Is there any truck to feeling that thing in? Should it slide back in easily? I lubed it up with gear oil and it just feels like it's binding up.

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I had the lower of the 2 seals in too deep. Took the e-brake all a part and carefully pounded the seals back so the outer one was flush with the face and it all went back together perfectly. Torqued the drum nut to 100 lbs-ft which didn't get the stake back to the original spot but it feels pretty good. Used the transmission to transfer case hose from @shipmag until I have time to drop the transfer case and fix it right.

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This reminds me that I need to go drop the 40 IPOR skid so I can get drenched in the gear oil that’s leaked out of my transfer case speedo hole. Maybe I’ll fix it one day when I learn just what a speedi sleeve is and how to measure for it.
 
Why do I always get ****ed by a simple project

The end of the old brake line broke off in the fitting....uggggh
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vise grip hasn’t worked. Going to try slotting next. Then drilling out—not sure I can get a drill in there.

I guess worst case scenario I get a stainless braided line and bypass it. I think that’s how the stainless lines come?
 
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Man-a-fre sells the set for $85. It includes the two short SS braided lines as well as the two extended lines if you have a lift.
 
Got the short lines for the front already but that’s where the union got messed up. I’m having no luck getting it out.

I think what I need are the longer lines like this kit from SOR. I think mark’s off road makes the kit for them or at least the lines.
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I’ve read the NAPA #38881 line works too but no shops have it in stock.
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blue is circle is the broken bit and line is where the stock soft line runs. Green would be the bypass.
 
@OTRAMM thanks, will probably go that route. Was just hopeful one would have it on the shelf so I could grab to today.

if anyone else finds themselves in this pinch the Napa #38881 cross references with a raybestos part.
 
Kids new school desk finally came in. So I challenged little man to build it. He did. Only needed help keeping legs steady as he put the bolt in and putting the table top on.

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