Rear window hatch/lock (1 Viewer)

[VitaminC914]

My 83 FJ60 doesn't have a key for the rear window lock. I had one made for the doors and I thought it would work on the rear hatch, but it didn't. I am assuming the rear hatch should lock and unlock. Correct?

Also, I noticed a wire connection that is connected to the latch. What is is for? I don't have auto lock. Is it for the rear dome light?

 

[orion]

It should turn 90-degrees to unlock...

Mine was frozen/corroded in place...and wouldn't turn with the key. I just removed It, scrubbed it clean, and greased it...and it now works perfectly.

There's an access panel, and the lock assembly is just held in with a clip. Easy job.

- Brian

 

[VitaminC914]

It should turn 90-degrees to unlock...

Mine was frozen/corroded in place...and wouldn't turn with the key. I just removed It, scrubbed it clean, and greased it...and it now works perfectly.

There's an access panel, and the lock assembly is just held in with a clip. Easy job.

- Brian

I was able to get it out without a problem, but the rubber pad is rusted out and not sure it can be saved. I am able to push the lock in/out, but won't turn with a key. Do you know if it uses the same key as the doors?

 

[UGA2018]

I had to have all of my doors and the rear hatch rekeyed. Now they match up but it took some work.

 

[slomoe]

same key unless it was changed somewhere along the way

 

[orion]

I was able to get it out without a problem, but the rubber pad is rusted out and not sure it can be saved. I am able to push the lock in/out, but won't turn with a key. Do you know if it uses the same key as the doors?

As someone else already mentioned, yes, the keys are all the same.

Mine would also push in/out...but was frozen with respect to turning (key cylinder in the lock housing).

Lots of WD40, and it started to turn a little...letting me know the key matched.

- Brian

 

[John McVicker]

One key unlocks everything on a 60 that is still stock.

However, I just had 3 new ingnition keys made and they worked everything except the rear hatch and the fuel door. It was a 3 minute solution to get all 3 new keys to work everything.

I noticed that the new keys had a slight protrusion that would not allow the key to go all the way in. One minute with a small file on each key and all was good.

 

[SteveH]

I noticed that the new keys had a slight protrusion that would not allow the key to go all the way in. One minute with a small file on each key and all was good.

Thanks John - my new FJ62 key flatly refuses to work in the fuel door. I will investigate the protrusion situation.

 

[John McVicker]

Good, I hope it works out for you...let us know.

On mine, where I filed was about 3/4 on an inch from the pointed end. Filed just a bit, just enough to round off the part that would not let the key slide all the way in.

I noticed that the new keys had a slight protrusion that would not allow the key to go all the way in. One minute with a small file on each key and all was good.

Thanks John - my new FJ62 key flatly refuses to work in the fuel door. I will investigate the protrusion situation.

 

[SteveH]

Filing the last 'step' on my key did the trick. Thanks for the tip! Oddly, when I insert the key, I have to pull it back just a bit to get the lock to turn, but that's not a big deal.

I also think the lock needs exercise, as it's rarely used (since there's an internal cable release for the fuel door on an FJ62 - just one of the things that makes it much better than an FJ60 ).

 

[John McVicker]

Excellent! Good to hear.

Here's what made me even try this 'trick'. I had 3 new keys made because my old key could be pulled out even with the engine running. So using the new key which would start the truck and open the doors, (but I didn't check the fuel door) the next morning drove 20 miles to meet my 4X Club to lead a 4X run. We met the rest of the Club and started to leave for the run, just by dumb luck I decided to fill up there instead of 50 miles away where the run would actually start. Well, no luck with the fuel door...so I had to drive 20 miles back home for the old key and then back for gas and the Club run.

After the run I tried the file trick. Good thing I tried to get gas before the run or I really would have been in a pickle.

Glad it worked for you.

 

[4Cruisers]

Filing the last 'step' on my key did the trick. Thanks for the tip! Oddly, when I insert the key, I have to pull it back just a bit to get the lock to turn, but that's not a big deal.

I also think the lock needs exercise, as it's rarely used (since there's an internal cable release for the fuel door on an FJ62 - just one of the things that makes it much better than an FJ60 ).

An upgrade to the FJ62 fuel door release mechanism is a really easy project, I moved it over from my FJ62 donor vehicle to my FJ60 project vehicle along with most everything else .

 

[4Cruisers]

And here are a few installation photos:

The little spring clip mechanism that pops the fuel door out when the cable release is pulled is still available new from Toyota for a few bucks.

 

[Landpimp]

You can still get the rubber pad on the outside of the hatch, think around $30

When I start to hAve key issues, I get new keys cut from the vin code or from the code from the PS lock cylinder. A new key cut like that will often solve the sticky key or key issues. Having a key cut at a hardware store does no good, they just copy the old worn key.

 

[Nikwho]

Where is the lever/knob that you pull, to pop the fuel door, when you use the FJ62 cable and mechanism? This is intriguing!

 

[Landpimp]

next to the hood release

Where is the lever/knob that you pull, to pop the fuel door, when you use the FJ62 cable and mechanism? This is intriguing!