Help me identify the fluid PO used in power steering (1 Viewer)

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So, I have a leak near the input shaft of my steering rack. I was going to add AT-205 and then top off with fluid.

However, it is my experience that ATF fluid that our 100s call for is red/pink. The fluid leaking is NOT red. It looks like the PO may have used regular power steering fluid instead of ATF. He took meticulous maintenance notes and I have his log, but there's no mention of the power steering ever being serviced.

Photo is of the fluid leaking from steering and dark motor oil from the dipstick with about 5k miles on it for comparison.

Any thoughts?

IMG_20200711_110952.jpg
 
That’s the original fluid from the factory...dirty, dead, and never changed. Pull reservoir and clean the screen, then Flush the system with fresh ATF until red is coming out. Add some AT-205 after the flush.
 
That’s the original fluid from the factory...dirty, dead, and never changed. Pull reservoir and clean the screen, then Flush the system with fresh ATF until red is coming out. Add some AT-205 after the flush.
To be clear, the fluid on top is the power steering and that is burnt fluid, right?
 
To be clear, the fluid on top is the power steering and that is burnt fluid, right?
Whoops. I thought the top was engine oil and bottom was old ATF from PS system. I Should have read your post more carefully.

In that case, looks like previous owner put power steering fluid in, which is a no-go. Flush that crap out completely with fresh ATF.
 
Whoops. I thought the top was engine oil and bottom was old ATF from PS system. I Should have read your post more carefully.

In that case, looks like previous owner put power steering fluid in, which is a no-go. Flush that crap out completely with fresh ATF.
Honestly I'd love to hear why power steering fluid is bad. It's hydraulic fluid. The Toyota pump and rack isn't special.
 
FYI the red in ATF is just a dye that is added, it's possible that it still has the original fluid from the factory. It is possible to leak out of the pinion shaft seal. I say clean the area and observe if fluid will come out.
 
Adding AT-205 after flush is best, when trying to stop a leak. I use M1 MV full synthetic ATF. By flushing first with synthetic, it helps clean the seals of gunk. This gives AT-205 better surface penetration into the rubber. Otherwize the gunk reduce effectiveness by blocking AT-205. AT-205 works in about 5 hours run time. But if seals gunky, may take longer, to give synthetic time to clean the gunk. I've even flushed a second time in just 2 or 3 K miles in really gunky systems, then add the AT-205.

AT-205 works very well for input shaft seal leak. But not near as good at stopping output shaft seal leaks. If vane pump leak, than like bearing is shot.

But in almost all cases, it's worth flushing and adding AT-205. Than circle back and evaluate.

Many years ago I put PS fluid in a Toyota Camry. The steering became very difficult to turn and vane pump noisy, during cold winter mornings. It would improve once warmed up. Flushed with ATF and issue went away.

Power steering fluid is one of the most overlooked fluids. Not flushing reduce life of rack seal, along with vane pump seal and bearings.

 
Nobody knows
The additives And red dye they put in ATF that makes it a special hydraulic fluid for transmissions are very important to a hydraulic pump and steering rack. In fact Id much rather run ATF than something like Swepco 715 or AC Delco PS fluid with anti cavitation and anti foam properties specific to steering pumps and recommended by PSC and Howe. Theyd never work! Theres certainly only one fluid to run, ATF and it must be dexron.
 
The additives And red dye they put in ATF that makes it a special hydraulic fluid for transmissions are very important to a hydraulic pump and steering rack. In fact Id much rather run ATF than something like Swepco 715 or AC Delco PS fluid with anti cavitation and anti foam properties specific to steering pumps and recommended by PSC and Howe. Theyd never work! Theres certainly only one fluid to run, ATF and it must be dexron.
Amateur. Dexron II or III only. And the original formula, only available from GM. Just like Toyota would have wanted.
 
Amateur. Dexron II or III only. And the original formula, only available from GM. Just like Toyota would have wanted.
Funny though, toyota did want people to just use GM dexron. But with the latest dexrons I guess don’t have what they wanted so they still want II or III I guess, so they still sell a new fluid that meets an antiquated standard.
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for powersteering, I agree with what your saying about fluid properties/additives not needing to be special given the simplicity of the system, any off the shelf mutli-vehicle atf will work fine.

For an automatic transmission, though, I feel that using the secret sauce vs generic could make a difference, and also toyota doesn’t license anyone else to make fluid that meets their specs.
 
IDK- when I bought my 100, the fluid was clear/brownish color. Single owner and It had always been dealer serviced. It may have been original. My first basline I farmed out to a independent toyota/lex specific shop. Asked them to do PS flush. The new fluid they put in was clear Hyd fluid. (I have since changed to M1ATF.)

Nothing wrong with hydr fluid as long as its changed regularly. The only downside I see to PS fluid(basic hydrauilic fluid) is the service life of the fluid, and its ability to maintain properties during high demand/high heat cycles. Over time hydrauilic fluid alone will break down with any rubber components inside the circuit-one reason it darkens, the other- heat. SYN ATF should hold up much longer to heat and extend the life of seals and pump impeller. My .02
 

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