1HDT conversion for 3B BJ70 (1 Viewer)

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Wanted to post an update here. The swap is nearly complete, just have to add fluids and bleed everything. Regarding the motor mount welding, I actually did this with the motor in and the transmission bolted up. I realized that since hdj73 also switched the transmission I wouldn't have any wiggle room with the mounts since the trans was going back in it's factory position. If the frame was slightly out of alignment then by only using those photos as a reference I could wind up with things not lining up perfectly. I bolted the h55f in place and rested the mounts on the frame (still on the hoist) for welding, this gave me the perfect position for the motor.

For this conversion I also sourced all oem parts, mostly new for hzj7x or hdj80 land cruiserd, and some used from the ih8mud community. Much appreciated to all who helped with parts and information.

In terms of difficultly, I would not rate this conversion very high. Once all the parts were sourced I was able to get to this point in about a day and a half of mostly working alone. There was no custom fabrication or aftermarket mods to make this work, it is essentially what a factory HDJ70 would be, bar the transmission and upgraded clutch. Most of the hours went into redoing the wiring harness, repainting the engine bay, fixing some minor rust areas, and replacing parts on the motor as needed.

Electrical is all setup as it should be with the factory connectors, relays, and fuses (thanks to Dave Stedman of Japan 4x4). The only mod I made here was deleting the automatic glow system. I really just prefer a manual glow switch for a vehicle like this.

Vacuum routing is not exactly the way I want it to be yet, the IP didn't come with the idle up mechanism so I have those ports plugged. I will assess if I want to add this once I get it running and test the AC without it. I also needed to run a soft vacuum line to the booster resivour since the hardline that is needed to cross over the motor seems to be completely unobtainable. Eventually I would like to switch this out if I can find the part, I'm told the one that will work was not used in any land cruisers but a different Toyota vehicle that was fitted with an hdt. I don't know if that is accurate information.

Once it's up and running I will have it towed to the exhaust shop, which should be the last thing needed after this weekend. I'm still not set on the exhaust setup so if anyone has any suggestions they are very welcome - I am planning on a fully custom job. While it's there it will also be getting sliders and custom mounts for the PTO driveshaft. The hz radiator is a few inches taller so the shaft will not fit under it and connect to the winch.

Lastly, my 70 did not come with a heater so I have heater hose connecting the coolant passages in the back of the motor. I considered installing a heater but decided it didn't matter enough to me to put the time and money into that. I'll stick with ac only while I continue to live in southern California.

Anyway, here's a glamor shot of where I'm stopping for the day. I will post a video of it running when I get to that.

IMG_20200220_154610.jpg
 
I don't know if that is accurate information.


Yes, its accurate. The 1HZ in a 70 series used the metal pipes for vacuum, the 80 series 1HD T used it for coolant to heat the ACSD
And I think the 1HD T must have 2 tubes.
Part number for the 1HZ tube 44777-60220
robs pics 023.jpg
 
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I found one in my parts box. It came off a 93 HZJ75
IMG_20200221_094059.jpg
 
1582250867528.png
 
Thanks @roscoFJ73

So it runs. Picked up a can of diesel this morning to fill the filter. A little pumping and turning it over with the injector lines cracked, tightened em back up and it started right up. Cracked and tightened each one by one and it smoothed right out. @HDJ73 is correct, this is pretty much a weekend job.

Still a few more things to do to get it road worthy again, but here it is running without a tailpipe

 
Have a watch of my vid, I realise you're going 1hz but they are the same family so mounts the same etc.

Hey mate, are you able to measure how far back the front of the new gearbox mounts are from the rear of the old ones? Cheers!
 
Been meaning to post this for a while -

For anyone's future reference the essential parts needed for this specific conversion. These were all sourced from vendors and members active on this forum. I have not included parts that I bought in the interest of replacing old things and "while you're in there", like every piece of oe hardware, belts, filters, fuel lines, etc. Procuring and researching the parts I would need was by far the most time consuming and painful part of this for me. I hope this can save other people some time.

Edit: There are obviously a lot of ways to successfully perform this conversion. This list should serve a method to achieve a complete factory install without fabrication or modification.

DESCRIPTIONNO.QTY
INPUT SHAFT33311601701
BEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT FRONT)90363400351
RETAINER, BEARING, FRONT (MTM)33131600401
SEAL, OIL(FOR TRANSMISSION FRONT BEARING RETAINER)90311320131
GASKET KIT, MANUAL TRANSMISSION OVERHAUL04331602401
HOUSING, CLUTCH31111602301
BOLT(FOR TRANSAXLE & ENGINE SETTING)91619612459
COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.1, LH31121260201
COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.1, RH31121600401
DISC ASSY, CLUTCH31250602221
COVER ASSY, CLUTCH31210361601
BOLT, CLUTCH SETTING90119081346
BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE31230601301
FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE31204361101
BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK31126600701
SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK31236350301
BEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT)90363150171
FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY13405170101
PIN, STRAIGHT(FOR FLYWHEEL)90250101923
BOLT, FLYWHEEL SETTING90105121698
HOSE, CLUTCH96812502601
CYLINDER ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE31470601611
BOLT(FOR CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER SETTING)91611608252
NUT (FOR TRANSFER INPUT SHAFT)90179220051
NUT (FOR TRANSFER OUTPUT SHAFT)90179220052
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT12361170202
BRACKET, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT NO.1 RH12311170201
BRACKET, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT NO.1 LH12315170201
BRACKET SUB-ASSY, ENGINE FRONT MOUNTING, RH51421601401
BRACKET SUB-ASSY, ENGINE FRONT MOUNTING, LH51422601401
COUPLING ASSY, FLUID16210170101
FAN16361170101
SHROUD SUB-ASSY, FAN16711170901
RADIATOR ASSY16400170801
HOSE, RADIATOR, OUTLET16572170201
HOSE, RADIATOR, INLET16571170201
CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO.1)96111104901
CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO.1)96111105301
CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET)90467420012
TANK ASSY, RADIATOR RESERVE16470170101
BRACKET, RADIATOR RESERVE TANK16611170111
CAP SUB-ASSY, AIR CLEANER17705170101
CLEANER ASSY USED (MAIN CONTAINER ONLY)17700170101
CLAMP(FOR AIR CLEANER HOSE, NO.1 AIR CLEANER SIDE)96111109001
CLAMP(FOR AIR CLEANER HOSE, NO.1 PIPE SIDE)96111107803
HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.217882170101
HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.117881170101
PIPE, AIR CLEANER17885170101
COOLER ASSY, OIL44420602401
HOSE, OIL RESERVOIR TO PUMP, NO.144348601201
TUBE, RETURN(FOR STEERING GEAR OUTLET)44416602401
HOSE, PRESSURE FEED44411603701
GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING USED44110603701
CABLE ASSY, ACCELERATOR CONTROL78180606301
 
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vacuum tube.JPG


2001-2006 HDJ78/9 dual vacuum and turbo water line FYI.
before I got two of these I JB welded the separate lines together from an 80 series and a 70 series.
 
View attachment 2364605

2001-2006 HDJ78/9 dual vacuum and turbo water line FYI.
before I got two of these I JB welded the separate lines together from an 80 series and a 70 series.

Thanks, this seems like an optimal solution to what is maybe the most compromising part of a factory conversion. I used roscoeF73's part and was able to remove the soft line I routed over the shroud although I will have to look again to see how I got the two hard lines to work. Pretty sure they are just bolted on top of each other. Another option I considered was relocating the vacuum reservoir so the soft line didn't need to be so long. But this would require a mounting fabrication, be less spacially efficient than the factory position, and create a problematic route to the booster. Honestly it does still bother me but I'm just enjoying using this beautiful machine and not working on it anymore for the moment. Definitely good for future reference to know you can use this instead. I will probably swap it out the next time I have to drain the coolant.
 
upper timing cover has to come off so you need a cam shaft seal.

best to do when you do the waterpump. allows all factory 70 series hd transplant

(converted my bj74 in 2006)
 

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