Painstakingly Slow Turbo Install (1 Viewer)

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So the above picture of the wastegate with the two banjo bolts is correct?

Yeah or you can run just open air up top. Chances of anything getting in there is crazy slim. But the side one is for vacuum from the vacuum tree with the silicon tubing I supplied. The top banjo can be any additional 6mm/1/4" tubing open to a safe area around the firewall.
 
I was able to knock out a good percentage of the turbo side of the build yesterday. A few things I learned:

  • I could not install the J pipe with the AC line and bracket installed. Once I removed the AC bracket the J pipe slid into position. If you've hard parts ceramic coated, I recommend putting a blanket down to slide the J pipe on. Otherwise, you will scratch the ceramic coating. I learned the hard way.
  • The Marmon clamp for the wastegate was a huge PITA for some reason. I could only install the WG to the j pipe with the turbo removed
  • If you've removed the exhaust shields, don't forget to re-install them prior to mounting the turbo :doh:
  • I would not recommend removing the bell housing mount, I'm not sure that I'll be able to re-install the upper bolt.
My injectors should be back from cleaning tomorrow, hoping to get this thing cranked up next weekend.

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What’s the best way to go about attaching the downpipe? Wastegate first or turbo? And how forceful can I be without worrying about breaking something?

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Turbo needs to be as perfectly aligned to the downpipe as possible. There are two accordion-like features that will allow you to bend both the wastegate pipe and the downpipe into a configuration that best aligns everything. DON'T crank down on the downpipe V-bands. Keep everything loose fitting until you can dial everything in.
 
Got the injectors back in the mail today, glad I sent them off a few were struggling. The orange harness housing is cracked on #6 but the report doesn’t make any note of it. Think I’ll be okay with 2 part epoxy or does it need to be replaced?

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Also, how do I clock the turbo. From the @OTRAMM YouTube video I see the oil inlet hose should be pointing up. When I rotate the turbo to this position, the turbo outlet obviously is not in the correct orientation.
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All three sections (turbine, oiling center, and compressor) can spin independent of each other by loosening the bolts on the inside sections. Just loosen, rotate, tighten.
 
Another solid day of work, got the air side done along with the spark plugs, PHH bypass, oil level sensor gasket and dip stick gasket.

I’d recommend taking off the upper intake plenum for anyone else doing this in the future. It only took ~45 minutes to reinstall and it gave me a chance to replace all vacuum lines, while making sure the orange check valve was installed correctly (orange facing the engine).

I removed the metal 90 degree bend that leads to the charcoal canister, the supplied hose from the kit is plenty long enough and it simplifies the connections.

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What’s the trick for two turbo flange bolts on the engine side? I can’t fit a socket, wrench or gear wrench back there.

Also, pouring oil in oil inlet. I assume only a small amount is needed? I poured 4oz or so and it was overflowing.

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Haven’t had an issue tightening the nuts. As to the oil, yeah it’s like a tablespoon.
 
To get the two nuts on the block side you just have to cram your arm back in there. Not the most comfortable nuts to tighten....but way easier than doing the oil drain line after everything is already installed.
 
Stubby wrench for the win on the two back bolts.

Also, it cranked on the first attempt so I must have done a half decent install. This is the biggest job I’ve ever done on a vehicle.



Looks like I may have a leak from the turbo to downpipe at the v-band. I’ll try tightening it some more. It could also be residual oil burning off from when I overfilled the turbo.



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How do I know the correct amount of tight?
Don’t use a big long 3/8” driver, use a stubby ratcheting wrench to limit the amount of leverage you can use. It’s a by feel torque spec...just snug it up, don’t go crazy. The v-band clamp isn’t designed to align the downpipe to the turbo...get that right first. The clamp is just to pull the two mating surfaces against each other.
 
I went back and checked the V band with a 1/2" stubby wrench, I feel confident now it's not too tight.

I made an appointment for Wednesday at the local exhaust shop. I know this has been asked before, but is my Cruiser safe to drive in this configuration? It's 14 miles to the shop. I can rent a u-haul trailer and tow it or pay a wrecker if necessary.

Also, the downpipe adapter will interfere with the PS body mount. I assume they can cut the adapter and bend pipes as necessary for clearance? Anything else I need to be aware of or let the exhaust shop know?

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I'm also going to order more heat shielding, at least for the wiring harness where it nears the downpipe. There's at least 1" of clearance but this turbo definitely puts out some heat!

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It should be fine, it may through a code or two since the o2 sensors aren’t reading anything. Just drive it easy.
 

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