TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)
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Frame is on primer after sandblasting
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
OK, all I want in life is for someone that will let me build a Resto Mod around this.
1,200 HP with a lumpy cam but also has street manners and is programmed to not kill itself.
"It definitely could be daily driven, but the cam that's in it sounds more like a hot rod." A racing temperament doesn't mean racing fickleness, though. Nelson explaining that the engine ECU "can self-correct" thanks to "a safety package [that has] all these sensors, so if the air/fuel ratio or the oil pressure or water temperature is outside a specific target, it goes into a limp mode or shuts itself off."
On;y $25,999.............................................................for the motor
1,200 HP with a lumpy cam but also has street manners and is programmed to not kill itself.
"It definitely could be daily driven, but the cam that's in it sounds more like a hot rod." A racing temperament doesn't mean racing fickleness, though. Nelson explaining that the engine ECU "can self-correct" thanks to "a safety package [that has] all these sensors, so if the air/fuel ratio or the oil pressure or water temperature is outside a specific target, it goes into a limp mode or shuts itself off."
On;y $25,999.............................................................for the motor
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Although I am working on plans for something with one of these
One of these
And one of these
One of these
And one of these
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Although I am working on plans for something with one of these
One of these
View attachment 2348430
And one of these
Heidts products are top notch
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Stuff in the back is not so shabby either, Art Morrison.
I'll go broke building it but with any luck it'll sell before complete.
Been saving a long time for this one and I have to build out a 62 and sell it first.
And it won't be in a Camaro, or a Mustang, a Tri Five or anything else most have seen.
I'll go broke building it but with any luck it'll sell before complete.
Been saving a long time for this one and I have to build out a 62 and sell it first.
And it won't be in a Camaro, or a Mustang, a Tri Five or anything else most have seen.
Okay, not as impressive as Stan (go Stan!), but since I know many others drive VWs, some insight. The new turbos, the IS ones, use electronic wastegates. And they fail. My son's golf (which is APR tuned) had the failed actuator code, so we got into tearing the area around the turbo to remove and check the actuator. Had to made a "special tool" to remove the T30 bolts that mount the actuator body, the rest was tight but simple unbolting stuff.
Anyway, VW wont sell the actuator, they dont show a part number for it. But of course there has to be one in the BOM, they just wont tell you, so it is made by Cooper Standard in China, part is 06K145614G. The letters may be off as they have superseded parts, but the numbers are the same.
My son got a CTS replacement which at least "looks" better made than original, and he already had the CTS downpipe. Then easy setup with the Ross cable and software and good to go.
Dealer told us they had to replace the Turbo for $2000. The CTS actuator is $185, and you can buy the original new from Alibaba for $100, same markings and stickers.
wastegate looks like others, nothing different
Get a Torx30 screw driver bit, cut off some of the end and secure it to wrench, it is very tight to get mounting bolts out
The freaking part number VW wont tell you.
Now this is the actuator, and looks very different to the vac ones I had to fiddle with in the past
Anyway, VW wont sell the actuator, they dont show a part number for it. But of course there has to be one in the BOM, they just wont tell you, so it is made by Cooper Standard in China, part is 06K145614G. The letters may be off as they have superseded parts, but the numbers are the same.
My son got a CTS replacement which at least "looks" better made than original, and he already had the CTS downpipe. Then easy setup with the Ross cable and software and good to go.
Dealer told us they had to replace the Turbo for $2000. The CTS actuator is $185, and you can buy the original new from Alibaba for $100, same markings and stickers.
wastegate looks like others, nothing different
Get a Torx30 screw driver bit, cut off some of the end and secure it to wrench, it is very tight to get mounting bolts out
The freaking part number VW wont tell you.
Now this is the actuator, and looks very different to the vac ones I had to fiddle with in the past
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Something electronic on a VW that fails???
Good info to know though Izzy, I think a friend of mine has that on his so i'll shoot him this link. Although I will say be careful of Alibaba one part I ordered for the lexus was mos def not OEM although it was supposed to be and i've seen a few reports of counterfeit fake parts showing with oem stickers and parts numbers on them.
I haven't had much VW trouble, even though I have heard about it, no doubt. We have been leasing all our company cars from VW, they used to make it sooooo easy. Employees and ourselves ran them hard, very hard, simple dealer maintenance, never a problem. Only had issues when I mod them for track duty, GTIs mark 5 and 6. But a lot of that was "operator error"
, did crack a few rotors coming off track early and not running a cooling lap...some turbo work went wrong while trying to cheat.... This one is my son's, also company lease he is planning to buy after lease ends in a few months. He has been using it for a while as his "lab car" while going to Automotive Tech schools.
My wife did have an 1981 s***rocco in College, would only turn on once a day....
, did crack a few rotors coming off track early and not running a cooling lap...some turbo work went wrong while trying to cheat.... This one is my son's, also company lease he is planning to buy after lease ends in a few months. He has been using it for a while as his "lab car" while going to Automotive Tech schools. My wife did have an 1981 s***rocco in College, would only turn on once a day....
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Not exactly “wrenching”, and definitely not difficult, but finally checked off solving my lighting issue in the 4Runner after the cage install. The map lights still work, but they’re extremely dim and what little light they do put out is blocked by the padded roll cage bar. This should help light up the front seat area. The light swivels left/right and up/down. Super simple, other than my hatred for working with really small gauge wire.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Go back to post #4845 and imagine it all in this
I've been wanting to build a RestoMod that is not a Land Cruiser for a while. I also want to build something different that has not been done to death. NO TRANSFER CASE!!!! and only one drive shaft. Goal is that only the wheels and tires on the outside and gauges and a few other changes inside to give the casual observer any idea what lies under the skin.
I've been wanting to build a RestoMod that is not a Land Cruiser for a while. I also want to build something different that has not been done to death. NO TRANSFER CASE!!!! and only one drive shaft. Goal is that only the wheels and tires on the outside and gauges and a few other changes inside to give the casual observer any idea what lies under the skin.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
I just got all tingly
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Right there with you buddy. It's sitting right outside the window in front of my desk. Turns out that parts for a 30+ year old Mercedes are far more plentiful than a 30+ year old Land Cruiser. Seems that the folks at Mercedes believe that the vehicles they make will live forever and support them with parts supply, unlike our friends at Toyota.
We have looked at several 380SLs and told the sellers of our plans. A couple were perhaps a bit disturbed but the guy we bought this one from was thrilled. He wants to see it being built and when finished.
After a good bit of reading on the subject I believe I will be pulling out the entire electrical harness and replacing it with an aftermarket harness. Mercedes electrical seems to have a bad rep, although not nearly as bad as British Leyland.
We have looked at several 380SLs and told the sellers of our plans. A couple were perhaps a bit disturbed but the guy we bought this one from was thrilled. He wants to see it being built and when finished.
After a good bit of reading on the subject I believe I will be pulling out the entire electrical harness and replacing it with an aftermarket harness. Mercedes electrical seems to have a bad rep, although not nearly as bad as British Leyland.
This could get interesting...
Also, whats the story on the piggie in the background?
Also, whats the story on the piggie in the background?
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yes! Mercedes classic center has so many parts for older cars it’s mind boggling. Prices are not cheap though. Re: harness...smart move. Mercedes for some reason used biodegradable materials for the wire covering in the early 90’s and maybe other periods. I had a 93 500e which required replacing a couple major sections of the harness due to theabove biodegradable BS.
Keep is updated on your progress!
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Indeed Jon, we have found everything that we already know we need. Even a complete bumper and valance replacement "it" that gets rid of the HUGE rubber sides on the American version. The European version is sleek, thin chrome. Cheap it is not at over $2K. This is a big leap for the business with just the drive line and rear suspension coming in at over $30K investment. Nothing ventured........
Just found a gem. I thought that the center gauge was in the 5-5.5" range because of the two large flanking gauges. Turns out the center gauge is 4.5" and the flanking gauges are 3.375"-3.5". All stock sizes at SpeedHut! I am getting jazzed. Unfortunately I need to build out my 62 and sell it to gain some more funds to put toward this build. So I'd say end of year to beginning of next year before I even start taking it apart. We are tagging and insuring it in the meantime.
Just found a gem. I thought that the center gauge was in the 5-5.5" range because of the two large flanking gauges. Turns out the center gauge is 4.5" and the flanking gauges are 3.375"-3.5". All stock sizes at SpeedHut! I am getting jazzed. Unfortunately I need to build out my 62 and sell it to gain some more funds to put toward this build. So I'd say end of year to beginning of next year before I even start taking it apart. We are tagging and insuring it in the meantime.
lt1fire
SILVER Star
I thought Mercedes electric of that Era were decent?? All the vacuum lines on the other hand.....
Cool build
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I've just done some preliminary reading so far. Our radio, heat/AC blower, horn, hazards are not working currently. So I figured that I am pulling all out related to motor, trans, gauges and the rest are basic electrical circuits. So on a build of this magnitude it only makes sense to go back with an entire new fuse block and harness.
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Light duty wrenching on the tdi today. New oil and filter, new battery, new fuel filter, new hood strut
and new air filter.
Ferd got a new fuel tank today. Damn delaminating ford fuel tanks.
This one doesn't have a lining, so it should be a permanent fix.
This one doesn't have a lining, so it should be a permanent fix.
