Sounds Like a Vacuum Cleaner After Cold Start - Secondary Air Pump Failure (2 Viewers)

[BLKcalibra]

My 2007 Lexus GX470 with 190K started sounding like an incredibly loud vacuum cleaner after a cold start. After hours of research, here's what I've found:

: Video from a Tundra that sounds EXACTLY like mine sounds. It's very distinctive. Others have been mistaken to believe that this particular sound is their alternator/starter/etc... not sure why though If the sound you're concerned about doesn't sound like this, best to keep troubleshooting.

Here is a link to a thorough tutorial on how to complete the repair [[but before you go this route, keep reading!]]: . FYI I priced out all of the parts listed in his video on amazon and it came out to $539. It's a pretty straight forward repair, but because this isn't a critical system as it only effects the cat., I kept searching for other options like a rebuilt, clean out, etc.

That's when I found this: Rutech Solutions $190 . I just ordered this and will update when I got it installed.

Also... open to thoughts/experience from others as to the soundness of this bypass solution.

 

[IwantPrado]

I’m following this posting as I just found a coolant leak and suspect a failed intake manifold gasket failure. While I’m tearing everything out, I might need to consider either replacing the secondary air pump, hoses and valves or go the bypass route.

 

[GXO]

If you want to bypass, you can do that easily without messing with the actual pump. If you don't have noise and will be in there, I HIGHLY suggest you swap the filter on the SAIS pump while there. It will drastically increase the life. There is a post here about the filter you need, etc. The OEM pump dies because the foam filter rots and gets sucked in over time.

 

[CarolinaGX]

That kit looks similar to the Hewitt kit that I used.

 

[IwantPrado]

@Vlad:
Thank you for a great idea to replace the pump filter! So far, so good, everything functions properly and there are no noises or codes. Like you said, it will make sense to replace the filter and extend the life of the system, otherwise that filter breaks up and clogs the valves in the back (huge PITA to replace). I’m going to investigate a replacement filter for the pump.
again, many thanks!!!

 

[IwantPrado]

I cannot find a filter for the secondary air injection pump. It seems only the pump complete assembly is available from various sources ranging from $100 to $400. Calle my local Toyota Parts desk and got a $621 quote for an OEM Toyota pump. Ouch!!!
If anyone knows a part number for the air pump filter, please let me know!
Thank you!!!

 

[H0saka]

I researched this issue extensively because my GX was an '08 with 146k and I wanted to get ahead of any issues coming down the pike for that mileage.

The pre-purchase inspection mechanic said ~150k miles is when he saw most GX's come in with the secondary bypass failure and it was expensive and a PITA to fix.

Hewitt Tech and RuTech will both work great. There is also an awesome GX forum poster named Slyfox75 who creates a custom kit that is cheaper, and he still ships it out. I reached out to him and installed his kit. Requires cutting a wire, but the instructions are very easy to follow. This was a preventative measure on my part, as the Slyfox kit electronically keeps the valves closed permanently, preventing what is typically the cause of failure (blown-to-bits old fan blade pieces entering the system).

Below is the best member post I saw on the options in this detailed thread. Keep in mind that if you already have the issue, you'll likely need to install valve block-off plates in addition to the wiring that comes with each kit.


"There are 3 options. You skill and budget will determine which one is right for you.

1. Build your own via Tundra Forums instructions (requires free registration):
TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

2. Get a kit that requires you to cut wires, aka, the SlyFox kit. It is $45 but I you must be comfortable cutting at least one wire. Jeff is a great guy and he was very helpful over email even though I did not go with his kit.

3. The plug and play method. Their are two kits - RuTech ($180) and Hewitt Tech ($225). The big difference is the RuTech does not have a starter wire, so the relay will not work if you put your truck ignition in the ON (but not Started) position for more than a few seconds. Hewitt has the started wire, but it requires you to put it under the starter relay. Hewitt might need a wire cut as well. You can check their website.

I went with the RuTech as I want plug and play with no cutting. I will be installing the block off plates as a redundancy, so even if the relay fails, the pump can't function anyway."

 

[IwantPrado]

Great options above, but slightly costly or require cutting wire, which I am not comfortable with yet...
Thanks to @Vlad, here is another solution he suggested for my case. Since I was planning to replace the pump as a preventative maintenance, and everything is operating properly, there is really no need to change the pump and the rest of the system, just replace the filter. The caveat is the filter is aftermarket external breather, so don't bother calling your friendly neighborhood Toyota/Lexus parts desk, they don't have the stock part. This, however is a $20 breather-type filter that may work extremely well for me! I'll keep you all posted on my progress once I get my intake manifold gasket replaced and will install the filter as described here: Lexus GX460 Secondary Air Intake Pump mod = "The Uni-Mod"

 

[BLKcalibra]

If you want to bypass, you can do that easily without messing with the actual pump. If you don't have noise and will be in there, I HIGHLY suggest you swap the filter on the SAIS pump while there. It will drastically increase the life. There is a post here about the filter you need, etc. The OEM pump dies because the foam filter rots and gets sucked in over time.

Right on the money. Unfortunately, once it starts making that sound its too late (at least in my case). The sound is being produced because the fan has sucked in the filter bits and has now forced all that junk into the actuator. I attempted to disassemble and clean it out, but the damage was already done. Installing the bypass along with the block off plates solved the issue.

 

[BLKcalibra]

3. The plug and play method. Their are two kits - RuTech ($180) and Hewitt Tech ($225). The big difference is the RuTech does not have a starter wire, so the relay will not work if you put your truck ignition in the ON (but not Started) position for more than a few seconds. Hewitt has the started wire, but it requires you to put it under the starter relay. Hewitt might need a wire cut as well. You can check their website.

I went with the RuTech as I want plug and play with no cutting. I will be installing the block off plates as a redundancy, so even if the relay fails, the pump can't function anyway."

I went with Hewitt Tech. Their new kit comes with a starter wire, no cutting required. Can also order with the conduit to run the wire so it looks professional. The instructions are spot on.

 

[BLKcalibra]

Great options above, but slightly costly or require cutting wire, which I am not comfortable with yet...
Thanks to @Vlad, here is another solution he suggested for my case. Since I was planning to replace the pump as a preventative maintenance, and everything is operating properly, there is really no need to change the pump and the rest of the system, just replace the filter. The caveat is the filter is aftermarket external breather, so don't bother calling your friendly neighborhood Toyota/Lexus parts desk, they don't have the stock part. This, however is a $20 breather-type filter that may work extremely well for me! I'll keep you all posted on my progress once I get my intake manifold gasket replaced and will install the filter as described here: Lexus GX460 Secondary Air Intake Pump mod = "The Uni-Mod"

Just so you know, there is no wire cutting with the new Hewitt kits. You do have to wrap the wire around one of the starter relay posts, but thats super easy. The block-off plates aren't too hard if you flood the Hewitt instructions. All that being said, since you're doing the preventatively, you'd probably be good to go with the filter change. Down the road, the exhaust valves start to leak a bit which will also start throwing codes.

 

[IwantPrado]

Just so you know, there is no wire cutting with the new Hewitt kits. You do have to wrap the wire around one of the starter relay posts, but thats super easy. The block-off plates aren't too hard if you flood the Hewitt instructions. All that being said, since you're doing the preventatively, you'd probably be good to go with the filter change. Down the road, the exhaust valves start to leak a bit which will also start throwing codes.

I have just removed my intake manifold and opened up the pump cover. The good news is the fan fins appear intact. The bad news is... where is the filter? The filter is gone. I'm sure it is safe to assume it is in pieces somewhere along the entire SAIS. Still, no codes and everything seems operational (prior to disassembly at least).
So the million dollar question is, do I put in a breather filter and reassemble everything keeping fingers crossed, while knowing what sometime down the road the debris could get one of the valves stuck in open/closed position, and I will have to disassemble everything again and install the bypass kit. Or do I just order the bypass kit even though there are no issues now? I'm torn between these two options.

Your advice is very much appreciated!

 

[BLKcalibra]

So the million dollar question is, do I put in a breather filter and reassemble everything keeping fingers crossed, while knowing what sometime down the road the debris could get one of the valves stuck in open/closed position, and I will have to disassemble everything again and install the bypass kit. Or do I just order the bypass kit even though there are no issues now? I'm torn between these two options.

Your advice is very much appreciated!

Don't need to worry about having to take off the manifold. The bypass kit simply clicks into the air intake's existing wiring. The installation of the block-off plates are a bit more involved. To do that you have to dismount the front tires so you can get in back behind the engine to where the exhaust lines run into the system. But even that process is fairly simple.

 

[IwantPrado]

Don't need to worry about having to take off the manifold. The bypass kit simply clicks into the air intake's existing wiring. The installation of the block-off plates are a bit more involved. To do that you have to dismount the front tires so you can get in back behind the engine to where the exhaust lines run into the system. But even that process is fairly simple.

Sounds great!
I took off the manifold to replace the gasket which caused a coolant leak. While I was there I thought I'd address the SAIS. So should I just remove the SAIS and install the bypass kit since the pump and valves are going to be useless?

 

[BLKcalibra]

Sounds great!
I took off the manifold to replace the gasket which caused a coolant leak. While I was there I thought I'd address the SAIS. So should I just remove the SAIS and install the bypass kit since the pump and valves are going to be useless?

Best to leave everything in place. Once you have the bypass installed it won't turn on.

 

[IwantPrado]

Best to leave everything in place. Once you have the bypass installed it won't turn on.

Got it! thanks!
I was hoping for some weight reduction by removing unneeded components. Well, at least the air injection control driver (AID) will be removed. I guess I can return the breather filter I bought for the pump.
Thanks again for your advice!

 

[Commander AJ]

I researched this issue extensively because my GX was an '08 with 146k and I wanted to get ahead of any issues coming down the pike for that mileage.

The pre-purchase inspection mechanic said ~150k miles is when he saw most GX's come in with the secondary bypass failure and it was expensive and a PITA to fix.

Hewitt Tech and RuTech will both work great. There is also an awesome GX forum poster named Slyfox75 who creates a custom kit that is cheaper, and he still ships it out. I reached out to him and installed his kit. Requires cutting a wire, but the instructions are very easy to follow. This was a preventative measure on my part, as the Slyfox kit electronically keeps the valves closed permanently, preventing what is typically the cause of failure (blown-to-bits old fan blade pieces entering the system).

Below is the best member post I saw on the options in this detailed thread. Keep in mind that if you already have the issue, you'll likely need to install valve block-off plates in addition to the wiring that comes with each kit.


"There are 3 options. You skill and budget will determine which one is right for you.

1. Build your own via Tundra Forums instructions (requires free registration):
TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

2. Get a kit that requires you to cut wires, aka, the SlyFox kit. It is $45 but I you must be comfortable cutting at least one wire. Jeff is a great guy and he was very helpful over email even though I did not go with his kit.

3. The plug and play method. Their are two kits - RuTech ($180) and Hewitt Tech ($225). The big difference is the RuTech does not have a starter wire, so the relay will not work if you put your truck ignition in the ON (but not Started) position for more than a few seconds. Hewitt has the started wire, but it requires you to put it under the starter relay. Hewitt might need a wire cut as well. You can check their website.

I went with the RuTech as I want plug and play with no cutting. I will be installing the block off plates as a redundancy, so even if the relay fails, the pump can't function anyway."

Do you know if any of these options will pass smog testing in California?

 

[BLKcalibra]

Do you know if any of these options will pass smog testing in California?

Let me preface this by saying that I don't have direct experience with CA inspections. The SAP only runs for a few seconds on cold start. So, unless the smog test includes a cold-start test, it will pass just fine.

 

[Commander AJ]

1. Build your own via Tundra Forums instructions (requires free registration):
TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

If you decide to go this route please note that the correct wire to cut at the MAF sensor is the BROWN wire if you have a GX470. It's super easy to do and only costs about $20.