What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (23 Viewers)

[Chuckha62]

Matt,

These were pop riveted on? Mine is currently affixed with sheet metal screws and would rip my (or my wife's) skin reaching in, if not careful.
Great to know. I'll use good aluminum pop rivets.

Thanks once again!

 

[thecrazygreek]

Finally installed my HEAT knob into my 64. I have the period correct aftermarket heater option installed, but didn't like the switch solution it had. So I 3D printed a HEAT knob based on the light switch. It took a few tries and some finish work, but I think it turned out great.
I placed it where the old choke knob was because I am running a Sniper fuel injection system, I didn't need the choke. Next change will be replacing the throttle knob with a matching FOG switch.

Second pic shows them mid process.

 

[airon23]

Those turned out great. Now the obvious question is will you be reproducing them for others? Not that I'm in need of one but someone will eventually be. Maybe you could produce several of them in preparation for that and then see what the market is for them. Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, are these reproduced somewhere already?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Thanks!
I don't think these are being made. I like the look of the old knobs, but it seems they were all different. So I figured I'm going to make a matching set. I also have a ROOM knob in the making which would activate internal cab lighting. I believe the mid 60s 45lvs had the room knob.

You might say I have an issue with knobs...

These didn't make the cut...

 

[mrboatman]

Very assume work

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Even though possibility is there that it may crap out on me... couldn’t not clean/prime/paint the booster as I wait on rebuild kit for MC - I’m bored!

 

[Dagha Boy]

You've got a good thing started there.

Perhaps is you took it off the firewall, and then it would be a good idea to strip off all the clutch hydraulics and then you may as well do all the brake pipes... and disc brakes... and power steering and there must be some rust somewhere...

A lot of potential, don't be a Sissie.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

You've got a good thing started there.

Perhaps is you took it off the firewall, and then it would be a good idea to strip off all the clutch hydraulics and then you may as well do all the brake pipes... and disc brakes... and power steering and there must be some rust somewhere...

A lot of potential, don't be a Sissie.

I try hard to AVOID ‘rabbit-holes’

 

[Jdc1]

I try hard to AVOID ‘rabbit-holes’

Rebuilding a MC is a good excuse to blow the entire truck apart. You should be able to bang out a full frame off in 2 or 3 months.....

 

[ATLTJ]

3d printed dome light replica made from some spare parts that were lying around.. and went with green for the moment because why not!

 

[letterman52]

Well insomnia is in full effect. Worked on two projects. Black vinyl covers made from scratch for the long jump seats. Frames still need to be media blasted and painted. Also bled the brakes, switched out the original shocks on my 69’ and drained and filled the TC and Transmission.

 

[tls3601]

I try hard to AVOID ‘rabbit-holes’

Get near that rabbit hole and many domino’s start falling all over the place, looking good sir. A couple of years ago I did City Racers booster in mine and had the other one rebuilt by SOR, still sitting in a box

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Even though possibility is there that it may crap out on me... couldn’t not clean/prime/paint the booster as I wait on rebuild kit for MC - I’m bored!
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Rebuilt Master all buttoned up - brakes bled (correct I hope)....... went for test in the neighborhood and didn’t crash into anything!
* One bleeder screw got mangled as I loosened it so I’ll need to replace it - Can I just bleed that one caliper?

The fluid is so clean in the reservoir I can hardly see it!

 

[1911]

* One bleeder screw got mangled as I loosened it so I’ll need to replace it - Can I just bleed that one caliper?

Which wheel? You'll want to bleed all the calipers in between that one and the master cylinder again, because you will introduce air into the system at that point.

When you bleed brakes, you always start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and progress to the closest one last. This distance is based on the length of the brake lines, not as the crow flies. Usually (but not always) on a left-hand drive truck, this means you bleed the passenger-side rear wheel first, then the driver-side rear, then the passenger front, then the driver front last. If you don't do it this way, you can have air trapped in the system.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Which wheel? You'll want to bleed all the calipers in between that one and the master cylinder again, because you will introduce air into the system at that point.

When you bleed brakes, you always start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and progress to the closest one last. This distance is based on the length of the brake lines, not as the crow flies. Usually (but not always) on a left-hand drive truck, this means you bleed the passenger-side rear wheel first, then the driver-side rear, then the passenger front, then the driver front last. If you don't do it this way, you can have air trapped in the system.

Yep, that was my order... I ended up having to use vise-grips to loosen the front passenger bleed screw so I’ll want to replace it as soon as can source one!
I’ll bleed them all in the same order if that’s best... so RR,RP,FP done?
Thanks for the help...

 

[Krenie]

This part of the project was on hold for a bit as it took awhile for the metal bender to arrive...was waiting on this for the project as I wanted the bend on the lower exterior edge to look uniform and straight to make the repair as unnoticeable as possible. Finished patching and stitching one of them. Need to hit it with the flap disk and then work on the second one tomorrow.

 

[1911]

Yep, that was my order... I ended up having to use vise-grips to loosen the front passenger bleed screw so I’ll want to replace it as soon as can source one!
I’ll bleed them all in the same order if that’s best... so RR,RP,FP done?
Thanks for the help...

It should work fine if you just did the front passenger and the front driver side (in that order); the rear brakes and brake lines are "upstream" (farther from the master) and shouldn't get air in them from opening the passenger front caliper. But if you feel any sponginess at all when your done then re-bleed all four.

 

[billmc]

Yep, that was my order... I ended up having to use vise-grips to loosen the front passenger bleed screw so I’ll want to replace it as soon as can source one!
I’ll bleed them all in the same order if that’s best... so RR,RP,FP done?
Thanks for the help...

Actually, the brake lines run down the passenger side, so doesn't that make the left rear the farthest?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Disassembled the thermostat housing from block to make it easier to remove the two top bolts on top portion of housing. Purchased OEM gaskets and thermostat. Reinstalled using small amount Permatex gasket sealer. Reconnected torquing to 12lbs on housing and and 18 lbs on block. Filled radiator and leaks at block and housing. Removed again, sanded scrapped and realized the old housing top has been sanded so much by POs the mating surface reduction has the new Thermostat OEM #90916-03014 with top gasket #90430-40058 hitting top of cover causing gap to be larger than housing gasket #16341-60020 can fill. Then lightly sanded measured inspected lower housing to block and it is .00 x1.5mm off from top to bottom. I could have used gasket maker to fill but discovered City Racer @Racer65 has the top and #16333-60070 bottom #16331-60040 OEM housing plus top to bottom bolts. IMPORTANT NOTE: according to EPC the bolts are #91611-60825 however upon receiving them from Toyota, they are wrong bolts.

These bolts highlighted will not fit.

 

[4Cruisers]

IMPORTANT NOTE: according to EPC the bolts are #91611-60825 however upon receiving them from Toyota, they are wrong bolts.

I see that Toyota replaced 19611-60825 with 19611-B0825, but that shouldn't matter if they're essentially the same bolt - single captured split washer and 25mm long under the bolt head. How do the bolts you received measure?