- Thread starter
- #21
The only problem with this site is that I spend all my time on here and not turning wrenches!
procedure for pulling the 1fz-fe (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kfire01
- Start date
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Another thing that may help, the top bellhousing bolts suck, some ppl undo the motor mounts and drop the motor to get to them, after doing it several times on my cruisers, the easiest way is:
Remove the center consol and shifter
Undo the trans crossmember and drop trans 4-5"
Using several extensions, you can access the top 2 bellhousing bolts through the shifter hole...
Good luck, now get out there and start wrenching!!!
Oh and one more tip, before you get the motor back in and bolted to the mounts, thread the starter in while it is slightly elevated and the trans is bolted up, it's a pita to get in once the motor and trans are bolted in their final resting places...
Remove the center consol and shifter
Undo the trans crossmember and drop trans 4-5"
Using several extensions, you can access the top 2 bellhousing bolts through the shifter hole...
Good luck, now get out there and start wrenching!!!
Oh and one more tip, before you get the motor back in and bolted to the mounts, thread the starter in while it is slightly elevated and the trans is bolted up, it's a pita to get in once the motor and trans are bolted in their final resting places...
alia176
SILVER Star
Use these to open up the connectors http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html
- Thread starter
- #24
I presume you mean to lower the tranny and t case as a unit in order to reach the top two bolts?
Removing the motor mounts tilts the engine forward so you can get to them from the top passenger side of the engine without any interior dissasembly
^^ Correct. I flattened a 17mm wrench for this part. The angled box end doesn't work in your favor. BFH and an anvil. 
When you let the engine down, watch what's going on from underneath. The two contact points will be the lower radiator hard line and the crank position sensor on the front edge of the oil pan. Don't mash them!
When you let the engine down, watch what's going on from underneath. The two contact points will be the lower radiator hard line and the crank position sensor on the front edge of the oil pan. Don't mash them!
Lots of great tips here.
Wish this thread was around when i removed my drive train.
Good luck with the project!
PS:
I ended up buying a 30piece wall mount organizer.
Labeled everything I removed and took a few pictures.
Edit: remember to get your AC system discharged before diving in. I forgot to do that before hand and it set me back a couple days before I was able to find a shop willing to send someone out to do it.
Wish this thread was around when i removed my drive train.
Good luck with the project!
PS:
I ended up buying a 30piece wall mount organizer.
Labeled everything I removed and took a few pictures.
Edit: remember to get your AC system discharged before diving in. I forgot to do that before hand and it set me back a couple days before I was able to find a shop willing to send someone out to do it.
alia176
SILVER Star
Well, you don't have to open up the a/c system if you don't have to. Remove the a/c comp and lay it aside during the engine extraction.
FloridaFJ80
Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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I am going to be doing this in the next few weeks, whats easier to remove the engine alone or should I remove it with the tranny?
@alia176: you may be right. I'm a rookie and have not done this work before. But I figured that in order to remove the a/c evaporator out of the way, the system would need to be drained.
Also in my case, I'll be installing a cummins/nv4500/split case in one shot if possible and needed all the room possible
Also in my case, I'll be installing a cummins/nv4500/split case in one shot if possible and needed all the room possible
IMHO removing the engine by itself is easier.
At least that's what I did and it wasn't that difficult.
alia176
SILVER Star
@alia176: you may be right. I'm a rookie and have not done this work before. But I figured that in order to remove the a/c evaporator out of the way, the system would need to be drained.
Also in my case, I'll be installing a cummins/nv4500/split case in one shot if possible and needed all the room possible
No problem mate, we're always learning on this site. Your needs are different than the OP's but the A/C condenser (evaporator is inside your dash!) can be simply be rotated toward the laying position during this process.
So to ask a slightly silly question, if pulling entire powertrain is it easier to pull the transfer case off the TRANS then pull engine and TRANS together for say ping an LS swap?
BTW I plan to have all nose sheet metal off first.
I'll start my build thread soon, I'm just freshening up the axles and brakes before I dive into the swap.
BTW I plan to have all nose sheet metal off first.
I'll start my build thread soon, I'm just freshening up the axles and brakes before I dive into the swap.
alia176
SILVER Star
@alia176: you may be right. I'm a rookie and have not done this work before. But I figured that in order to remove the a/c evaporator out of the way, the system would need to be drained.
Also in my case, I'll be installing a cummins/nv4500/split case in one shot if possible and needed all the room possible
No problem mate, we're always learning on this site. Your needs are different than the OP's but the A/C condenser (evaporator is inside your dash!) can be simply be rotated toward the laying position during this process.
alia176
SILVER Star
I've never done this but I've seen others do it. Seems like it'd be easier and a lot less fastener removal, which means less time on your back! If everything on the front clip is just about gone and you have enough head room, I'd pull the whole-sha-bang.
Anyone know how much vertical clearance I'd need to pull just the engine? I've got 8' ceilings in my garage. I'm considering going this route for my engine overhaul (HG, oil pans, wiring harness). Worth the trouble?
alia176
SILVER Star
If you remove the front grill and lay down or disconnect the A/C condenser, you may not need to pull the whole thing too high.
Well, you don't have to open up the a/c system if you don't have to. Remove the a/c comp and lay it aside during the engine extraction.
Yes you do, Unless you are pulling the system out through the fire wall
, also the condenser is an issue I have removed several engines, from the 80's the best way is bring transmission and transfer case, out through the front , otherwise you are going to possible damage the the transmission seal, if you do not leave the torque converter attached, to the tranny . You need to pull wiring harness through the fire wall and lay it on top of engine. My favorite way is to lift the body off and pull the motor and tranny out of frame, as one piece
alia176
SILVER Star
Good quarantine project!
