Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (12 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

What's giving me hope is that the HE351cw, modified, is running big power on large compound sets from what I see in the comp forums. That makes me hopeful that this Super HX30w/HE351cw setup is the ticket. I think I'm going to try to get the truck dyno'd before diving in on the compound build, so we can track improvements.

I've got a set of sliders in the garage that I made for a customer, that ended up going unused, so yes, hopefully sliders. It's on my ever-growing list for this round

 

[GLTHFJ60]

$150 he351cw is a WIN.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

24v manifold came in as well. Looks like it's an oem unit that was used (imperfections in the mating surface) then blasted before being sold.

$325 worth of gear here including shipping. Feels like a good deal. Turbo feels tight too.

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm guessing you just lob the outside two runners off and weld it up? Some 1/4" plate should give you a nice flat spot to put EGT and drive pressure senders.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm guessing you just lob the outside two runners off and weld it up? Some 1/4" plate should give you a nice flat spot to put EGT and drive pressure senders.

Yup, exactly. Spots don't need to be flat for egt/drive pressure, but makes it easy.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Weekly rust update.

We're moving right along. Got the DS front door and the tailgate fixed up and ready for paint this weekend. Also made progress on stripping the body.

After rust converting with ospho, the skin and structure were rejoined:

This was the bad corner. Looks pretty good I think!

I don't have a brazing rig, so the skin was welded to the window frame, then blended out. Worked well. This is pre-blending.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Moving on to the tailgate, this is where we left off. Nearly 3" of the outer skin was chopped off, and about an inch of the inner structure was chopped as well. She was quite rotten.

Cut some strips out on my plasma table to make nice long straight pieces to fill in with:

Of course the table isn't wide enough to cut a single piece strip long enough for the tailgate, so the four strips were butt-welded into two, then grafted into the tailgate. The narrower of the two was used for the inner structure.

A bunch of welding, cutting, grinding, and painting later, we got this. I put some new drain holes in, which worked out OK. Should have used a drill to mark the top of the drain rather than a die grinder

The outer skin was harder to fix. The OEM tailgate skin arced left to right, and also also curved top to bottom. Due to this, the filler piece is also tapered from the center outwards. Hammered it out on my vise with a buck of sorts (piece of tubing) and got it tacked into place.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Lots of tack welds and waiting time later, we got it welded up. I was able to avoid warping by spacing the tacks out and waiting for the tailgate to cool between rounds.

Finally, the welds were blended out. I'm very happy with the result. Stay tuned for more updates.

 

[White Stripe]

Lot of work here. How are you going to coat the inside of the doors and tailgate?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The doors were treated with ospho, then primed. Thinking I'll go back with steel-it paint in the tailgate, and the doors will get coated with a cavity coating film.

 

[2fpower]

Great metal work there..

 

[GeoRoss]

Quick question on the phosphoric acid you use. How do you neutralize it? The times I've used it I ended up getting flash rust after rinsing off with water.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Quick question on the phosphoric acid you use. How do you neutralize it? The times I've used it I ended up getting flash rust after rinsing off with water.

Ospho instructions say to let it dry for a day, then paint right over it. No neutralizing needed. It's worked well so far, specifically on the front fender i've already finished.

 

[GeoRoss]

Ospho instructions say to let it dry for a day, then paint right over it. No neutralizing needed. It's worked well so far, specifically on the front fender i've already finished.

I remember thinking that it didn't make sense to paint right over it without cleaning it. I'm making some steel rails for a trailer and I plan on using phosphoric acid since it would take a long time cleaning it all up to bare metal.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Didn't have it in me to grind more this weekend. Got the interior cleaned out, and found more rot I'm going to have to fix. Yay.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

@GLTHFJ60
On Page 164 of this post you mention thermal protection circuit on the Warn motor.

The 8274 I am rebuilding came with a new motor with no markings but it has these two small wires coming out the bottom which I assume are the thermal protection circuit.

How did you wire this to the solenoid box? I am having a hard time finding any info online. The motor is definitely older than the one you have posted here as the grommet is a different design.

 

[Elbert]

Didn't have it in me to grind more this weekend. Got the interior cleaned out, and found more rot I'm going to have to fix. Yay.

View attachment 2295832

View attachment 2295833

saw your pic above (tired to quote that...hope it works post # 3831 above). Anyway what was the logic on using the metal frame on the floorboard for your rear bead area. I presume the floor (wood) attaches to that...etc. What was the driver to approach it that way? I'm looking to do something similar on my truck (install a wood floor) and then attach various things to the wood..etc. Also I noted you were running what looks like a 90' degree fitting on your ps resivor....what size is that, I have a similar ps resivor and I want to do a better job on venting it (on the vent hole / cap). thanks

At some point I want some type of storage in the rear bed and a mount for a refrigerator / cooler an dlikely will try to cram an air compressor in the area too. thought about using 3/4 marine plywood as the base for this and the metal frame idea looks good to have a good way in which to gain access to the bottom of the flywood floor, obviously I want to limit any holes to be drilled in the floor board.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60
On Page 164 of this post you mention thermal protection circuit on the Warn motor.

The 8274 I am rebuilding came with a new motor with no markings but it has these two small wires coming out the bottom which I assume are the thermal protection circuit.

How did you wire this to the solenoid box? I am having a hard time finding any info online. The motor is definitely older than the one you have posted here as the grommet is a different design.

I don't have a specific diagram, but it goes like this. The thermal protection circuit is normally closed, and opens when the motor gets too hot (thermal event). You wire this switch in line with the black pin in this diagram, so that your control's black pin has to go through the thermal protection circuit. In case of a thermal event, the circuit opens, preventing you from powering the winch in or out. Make sense?

saw your pic above (tired to quote that...hope it works post # 3831 above). Anyway what was the logic on using the metal frame on the floorboard for your rear bead area. I presume the floor (wood) attaches to that...etc. What was the driver to approach it that way? I'm looking to do something similar on my truck (install a wood floor) and then attach various things to the wood..etc. Also I noted you were running what looks like a 90' degree fitting on your ps resivor....what size is that, I have a similar ps resivor and I want to do a better job on venting it (on the vent hole / cap). thanks

At some point I want some type of storage in the rear bed and a mount for a refrigerator / cooler an dlikely will try to cram an air compressor in the area too. thought about using 3/4 marine plywood as the base for this and the metal frame idea looks good to have a good way in which to gain access to the bottom of the flywood floor, obviously I want to limit any holes to be drilled in the floor board.

PS fitting is -10 AN iirc. Go to pscmotorsports and look at their low pressure slip fittings for return lines, that's what you're looking for.

When I built this rev of the sleeping platform, i wanted to limit the holes in the floor, so I built the metal frame. I had 1x1 box tubing available, so that's what I used. The metal frame attaches to the seat belt bolts up front, then one of the two small holes in the back near the sill.

On top of the 1x1 frame is 3/4 regular ply. Doesn't need to be marine ply unless you take your truck swimming with you, something i try to avoid.

The issues I have with this setup::
1. Too much vertical height is wasted, which is important if you want to sleep in the truck. It's tight for me.
2. The system has to be disassembled to remove it from the truck. For me, this means taking the drawers out, then the top off of the box in the truck, then the metal screws holding the ply to the metal frame, then the metal frame itself.
3. No access to the rear quarter panels.

The things I like:
1. Fridge is super secure and in a good place for access
2. The camp kitchen's folding legs kick ASS
3. Keeps stuff secure

I'm going to come up with a new system after i get done with everything else. Just not sure what it looks like yet.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More rot, this time in one or the doors I thought was solid. 1/4" of hidden bondo from a PO and lots of dents from me

Straightened it out as much as I care to while I'm in there. Elected not to take the skin off of this door, just didn't seem necessary like it did with the other door. Similar procedure, cut the skin, cut the frame, repair the frame, then replace the skin, and blend. Skin and blend will happen at some point this week hopefully.

Edit: in the following pic, you can see a water line in the inside of the door, defined by yellow pollen. Undoubtedly this is a source of some water I've seen on the floor at the outer edges. Check your drains!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Also elected to shave the tailgate. Is shave the right term here?

I have not used the hatch washer bottle once in 13 years, and have only used the hatch wiper twice. I'll repurpose the wiper motor wiring to power lights that project downward when the hatch is open for cooking, to eliminate aftermarket wiring. I am going to retain the heated glass functionality.