Official 37" and up picture thread (20 Viewers)

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1st off, I'm NOT saying that running 37s on a 2" lift is ideal... just that it's very possible.
I just have been playing with the game I call it "HOW LOW CAN I GO"
The way my rig is set up, it has approx. 3.5" of up travel, it needs a bit more up travel to take the bigger hits at higher speeds like wide open washed out, whooped desert stuff. Basic wheelin is fine.
With the added stock rear cone bumps up front, it makes it a more comfy ride.
My front axle is not moved forward yet, I only would do that if I went to a bigger tire.
@Lumpskie I do believe the 2.5" MAF drop bracket geometry is allowing my 37 to be more centered in the wheel well.
Make no mistake I do rub at full articulation all a round my fender wells front, top & rear.
Lowering the bumps will mitigate that.
I will be adding 25mm coil spacers to my current set up to play with 3" of lift & approx. 4" of up travel.

One thing I did learn is the up travel of the tires while articulating has a straighter up down movement rather then a tilting movement with taller suspension lifts.
 
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Trimming flares (at a minimum) will be necessary for 37's with 3" of lift. They are going to rub somewhere unless travel is significantly limited with bumpstops. My personal view is that limiting travel defeats much of the purpose in going with a bigger tire in the first place, the goal typically being better offroad performance.

So I tried to keep all of the full 12" of travel f/r that I had with 35's. I ended up adding a 1" body lift to allow for a little more room and also so I didn't have to run as large a bumpstop. Axle was moved forward. But trimming some off the inside edge of the flares was still required.

A taller lift might help reduce the trimming required (or even eliminate it). But acceptable lift height is up the owner. I've had lifts ranging from 2-6" over the years. Nothing makes me want to go back to 5-6" of lift. 3" has been the sweet spot IMO and adding the 1" body lift was even a reluctant decision. For me personally, a 3" lift with minimal trimming and 37's is an ideal setup for an all-around wheeler. Still big enough to not drag everywhere in the technical stuff, but low enough that it can comfortably be rallied on higherspeed stuff without much worry about being top-heavy. At least that's my feeling from my own experience and driving style.
 
Adam I need to go back & read in detail what you actually did to fit 37s... OK I'm back just read up from page 32.
I have a few questions:
How does the back spacing come out to with the
Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers & Icon Alloys 17x8.5" - Zero Offset?
My 9" 3.5" BS equal to stock wheels & 1.5" wheel spacers.

Do you ever disconnect your front sway bar?

How much up travel have you left on the table from 315s to 37s?
Meaning how much did you have to bump down from stock?
Do you have a dirty spot left on your front shock shafts?
Let me just show a pic, I am having a hard time describing in words
I put zip ties on my front shocks to show me just wear I've been. I am using all of my shock travel, but like .25" I have the Slinky spec 2.0 shocks that can use stock bump stops. So what I am saying is that I have not lost any up travel from what 315s have to offer in up travel.
(The pic is with 1" lift over stock.)
Screenshot_20200118-191333.png
 
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GW Nugget said:
Adam I need to go back & read in detail what you actually did to fit 37s... OK I'm back just read up from page 32.
I have a few questions:
How does the back spacing come out to with the
Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers & Icon Alloys 17x8.5" - Zero Offset?
My 9" 3.5" BS equal to stock wheels & 1.5" wheel spacers.

How much up travel have you left on the table from 315s to 37s?
Meaning how much did you have to bump down from stock?
Do you have a dirty spot left on your front shock shafts?
Let me just show a pic, I am having a hard time describing in words
I put zip ties on my front shocks to show me just wear I've been. I am using all of my shock travel, but like .25" I have the Slinky spec 2.0 shocks that can use stock bump stops. So what I am saying is that I have not lost any up travel from what 315s have to offer in up travel.
(The pic is with 1" lift over stock.)
View attachment 2197713
Click to expand...
The Icon wheels are 4.75" BS, so with the 1.5" spacers I'm running I'm netting 3.25" BS.

As for travel, I'm still using everything the shocks will give me from what I can see. I haven't verified completely but when I was doing my trimming and checking clearances on a ramp I got it within an inch or two of bottoming out the Timbren bumpstops and I had nearly the same amount of shock left (plus ~.25") so pretty close to what you have. I feel pretty confident that I'm still using the full 12" the shocks will allow. I did a little custom tweaking of the length of the supplied brackets that came with the Timbren bumpstops to get them set at the right length to do that. I'll have to go back and check again but I think I have bumpstops set at 1" larger in the front (frame mounted bump), essentially the same as the rear 79 series bumpstop that comes with the Slinky kits. In the rear I think I have a 2" over stock bumpstop. I haven't spent the time to do all the math, instead I've just eyeballed, marked, trimmed etc based on what was working on the ramp and fitting the tires with minimal rubbing.

I still have a little rubbing, but it's very light. I figure if you're not rubbing, you can fit bigger tires. :)
 
Box Rocket said:
The Icon wheels are 4.75" BS, so with the 1.5" spacers I'm running I'm netting 3.25" BS.

As for travel, I'm still using everything the shocks will give me from what I can see. I haven't verified completely but when I was doing my trimming and checking clearances on a ramp I got it within an inch or two of bottoming out the Timbren bumpstops and I had nearly the same amount of shock left (plus ~.25") so pretty close to what you have. I feel pretty confident that I'm still using the full 12" the shocks will allow. I did a little custom tweaking of the length of the supplied brackets that came with the Timbren bumpstops to get them set at the right length to do that. I'll have to go back and check again but I think I have bumpstops set at 1" larger in the front (frame mounted bump), essentially the same as the rear 79 series bumpstop that comes with the Slinky kits. In the rear I think I have a 2" over stock bumpstop. I haven't spent the time to do all the math, instead I've just eyeballed, marked, trimmed etc based on what was working on the ramp and fitting the tires with minimal rubbing.

I still have a little rubbing, but it's very light. I figure if you're not rubbing, you can fit bigger tires. :)
Click to expand...
Very cool Adam, all that & didnt cut out the front outer fender lip. @Lumpskie
 
GW Nugget said:
Very cool Adam, all that & didnt cut out the front outer fender lip. @Lumpskie
Click to expand...
Because I moved the axle forward I did cut a small amount of the front fender lip sheetmetal at the area at the very front/bottom of the fender. But it was very small, maybe just 1/2" off the corner.
 
GW Nugget said:
Luv the low stance...
Im running a 2" lift myself.
Its absolutely freaking amazing a stock 80 series can bolt up a set of 37s & drive down the street.
Do you know of any other 4x that can do that?
It blows my mind....
My Hoopty Wagon
1" body lift & 1" suspension lift.
Lowered front bumps 1" & rear 1.5"
2" cut front fenders & gutted flares.
Non cut rear fenders & trimed flares.
3.5" BS 9" wheels.
37" ST Maxx Coop's
I forgot the rest.....
View attachment 2196932
Click to expand...

Is this the same one that’s on YouTube? What coils are you running?
 
Here is a link to my axle relocation. 80 Series, moving axle forward?

The short of it, I moved front axle 1” forward. Only trimmed just a very little bit of the back of the rear flares. No other rubbing has been found yet. I’m running a 12.5” tire where as Adam is 13.5”
 
Corbet said:
Here is a link to my axle relocation. 80 Series, moving axle forward?

The short of it, I moved front axle 1” forward. Only trimmed just a very little bit of the back of the rear flares. No other rubbing has been found yet. I’m running a 12.5” tire where as Adam is 13.5”
Click to expand...
Yours turned out really nice! Did you need to trim any of the front fenderwell near the core support?
 
Forgive me for sharing this since it's not on the Cruiser but I got the matching set for the trailer mounted up. Found both 37's for $30 about a month ago and just had to wait for the wheels to show up. Think I'm gonna need to to build new fenders. :)
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
GOTLOCKED96 said:
Is this the same one that’s on YouTube? What coils are you running?
Click to expand...
I do have youtube vids, but not sure which you have seen. I do have a build thread... My build thread
I am currently running stock coils up front with 2.5" spacers giving approx. 1" of lift. The cool thing doing it this way is the free height of 22.5" stays captured in the bucket which allows me to run the longer 28" Icon shocks.
In back I'm testing a new set of 1" lift Tough Dog dual rate 220/280# & like them so far.

@Box Rocket After looking at your back spacing a bit it turns out your 3.25" BS 8.5" wheel centers the tire tread the same as my 3.5" BS 9" wheels.
Even with a wider tread you still wear able to fit 37x13.5s without cutting the outer fender lip, I'm impressed.
 
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Okay, since another post got me here I might as well post up my new digs...
Now that I figured out how to fit 37s I figured on messing that all up by going to 38s. I will need to do more trimming & move front axle forward.
MileStar 38x13.5s on 2" suspension, 1" body lift, 1" front bumps & 3" rear.
Screenshot_20200417-162800.jpg
Screenshot_20200418-152421.png
Screenshot_20200417-143741.jpg
 
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