Drill a hole in it and leave it open. That way air will circulate and moisture will dry out.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you can't weld, soldering is definitely an acceptable substitute for cosmetic things that don't require the same strength as welding. Body filler was all solder up until the mid 50s and maybe later. Don't just cut the end off because the tube extends up in there maybe 8 inches or more.
The attached photos are of the windshield frame from my 40. Viewed from the exterior / bottom. The holes were under the weatherstripping. Will the method you describe be a long term solution? Or use JB weld? Purchase another frame?This is the ONLY way I've ever filled holes up to at least 1/4" or maybe even 5/16"- rat tail file the hole to clean metal- heat around it with propane torch (acety will work if careful)- quick circles around the OD of the hole- solder onto the steel- depending how well you get at it it will only stick to to the sides of the hole and barely need sanding and barely bubble the paint- I consider it superior to welding as the base metal doesn't need to be melted or get so hot it may warp etc and IS metal. got the idea decades ago when reading about de-chroming old cars with holes for clips for trim and they brazed them up- same principle. takes some practice using both hands but no big deal. If you watch those videos using the powdered aluminum brazing rod for aluminum repairs with a propane torch - it works almost same and same technique.
I Would try it on that. What I always did were round holes drilled in good steel but I bet it works ok and can fill the pits like the body guys do the dents. I'd be watching youtube quite a bit before tying long areas on the surface though. Can Try brazing if you have oxy acetylene and can do it . It fills fairly well. hard to WELD with steel so thin as it melts away. soldering and brazing don't require you to melt the base metal. CLOSE to melting if you aren't careful WILL melt . Kind of like when I patch up my junk exhaust with a mig.The attached photos are of the windshield frame from my 40. Viewed from the exterior / bottom. The holes were under the weatherstripping. Will the method you describe be a long term solution? Or use JB weld? Purchase another frame?
View attachment 2255702
View attachment 2255703
View attachment 2255705
View attachment 2255706
View attachment 2255711