Serpentine Belt Tensioner Replacement (2 Viewers)

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I place stethoscope on the bolt holding in the idler pulley. Same on tensioner pulley. That is best done when cold, but generally I still hear chirp with it, after warm up too.

When you remove the belt spin pulleys like in my video above. Then you'll know for sure which are bad. Typical they are both bad.
 
A bunch of idler pulleys from different eBay sellers claiming to be OEM, but in the sub-$20 range.

Are these likely to be knockoffs? They're $70 at toyotapartsdeal.com.
 
A bunch of idler pulleys from different eBay sellers claiming to be OEM, but in the sub-$20 range.

Are these likely to be knockoffs? They're $70 at toyotapartsdeal.com.

Anyone claiming that a part is OEM should tell you the name of the OE manufacturer and the part should arrive in that manufacturer's box - for example Denso or Aisin. The listings go to great lengths to create the impression of an OEM part but also have a qualifier like OEM "quality" or OEM "equivalent". These are almost certainly cheap knockoffs. If it was really OEM they would tell you the name of the OE manufacturer.

I've noticed that some of the kits specify alternatives that you might receive - like A or B or C. So A is piece of gold/OEM, B is a piece of silver/OEM, and C is a piece of crap knockoff. When they give themselves options like this they're just name dropping A and B - you're actually going to get C, because that has the lowest cost to them.
 
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Might have green using the wrong terminology. These are called Toyota parts and they’re in Toyota boxes. But I think the same could be said for low-priced ignition coils that are knockoffs. So wondering if these are likely to be knockoffs.
 
Lexus dealer says that the serpentine belt is worn and must be replaced but the previous owner replaced it less than 1500 miles ago (have receipt). I asked for pictures and this is what the dealer sent (it’s at the dealership for heating core replacement $$$$). Do you guys see anything wrong with the belt? TIA.

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Lexus dealer says that the serpentine belt is worn and must be replaced but the previous owner replaced it less than 1500 miles ago (have receipt). I asked for pictures and this is what the dealer sent (it’s at the dealership for heating core replacement $$$$). Do you guys see anything wrong with the belt? TIA.

This raises the question - who's cheating you more? I'd say it's the one who said they replaced the belt 1500 miles ago.
 
:frown: I thought I got a well maintained rig but the dealer found multiple things that need replaced - dirty power steering fluid, contaminated coolant (green), brake fluid dirty, drive belts. These were all addressed in the last 10-15k miles but I guess the shop PO used is incompetent.
Thanks guys, I'll have them all replaced.
 
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:frown: I think I got a well maintained rig but the dealer found multiple things that need replaced - dirty power steering fluid, contaminated coolant (green), brake fluid dirty, drive belts. These were all addressed in the last 10-15k miles but I guess the shop PO used is incompetent.
Thanks guys, I'll have them all replaced.
Unfortunately it wouldn't be the first time that something like that happened. Even large name shops (and some dealerships) have their issues. Look at my build for such items.
Dirty fluids are one thing, if there is documentation that they were "changed" not long ago it could be an indicator of a scam from that shop. Wrong coolant (pink vs. green) is an incompetent shop that does not use vehicle specific or know better, same with drive belts.
 
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Depends, watch it with the engine running. If it "wiggles" a lot, then its tone to change. Do the idlers pulley while you're at it.
 
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Just replaced my belt only. The squeal is gone, but I'm not sure if an underlying problem still exists.

The tensioner spring seemed good. I could hear a faint sound when spinning both the tensioner pulley and idler pulley No. 2. Just a metal-on-metal light scraping, not a squeal. Both pulleys spun freely.

From another thread:

Here is one misconception in testing pulley bearings with belt off. We see a pulley freely spin for a long time and think great. NOT GREAT.
A new pulley will not free spin more than a revolution. If any sound heard as it's spinning, it's BAD with a doubt!

If I understand this correctly, both the tensioner pulley and idler No. 2 should be replaced. Both should only spin one revolution before stopping, and do so silently.

Is that right?
 
Got all the way to the last 12 mm on the center timing cover and I’ll assume the tech that did the timing belt at the dealer was having a bad day, because there’s no way I’m getting this off. No idea why someone would tighten like this. So bummed, back together it goes.

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Use a small cold chisel to get a bite on it, then gently tap it loose and spin it off. Dont bypass the opportunity correct that
 
But don't fight it. Sometimes the long road will save time. Meaning, get stuff in the way out of the way.

Remind me of a saying my old mechanic boss would say " the longest and the hardest way is the easiest and the fastest"
 
Got all the way to the last 12 mm on the center timing cover and I’ll assume the tech that did the timing belt at the dealer was having a bad day, because there’s no way I’m getting this off. No idea why someone would tighten like this. So bummed, back together it goes.

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That is a stud.
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Either get small inverted torque star onto end star, or put vise grips on the nut. Also a nut/bolt extractor could be used. You can do it!
 
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What is the technique for taking tension of the belt but not getting your wrench pinned into the fan clutch ?
 
Start with wrench straight up or to your left (right side of vehicle). This give plenty of room, between wrench and FC. I use a 1/2 ratchet with 14mm socket.
 
Start with wrench straight up or to your left (right side of vehicle). This give plenty of room, between wrench and FC. I use a 1/2 ratchet with 14mm socket.
Thanks for the pointer, I was starting too far to the right, with too short of a wrench.

Tensioner is plenty strong with the marker in between the hash marks as indicated in service manual. Pulley is in need of replacement though so time to get that done.
 
I just replace the bearing in the pulley of tensioner, if tension strong.
 

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