Power Steering Pump and Hose Replacement - FAQ (2 Viewers)

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Glad it was helpful to you

It was funny a few years ago I was searching for an answer for my FJ40 and came across the solution in a documented FAQ thread. It was a thread from me 12 years previously that I had forgotten I wrote. I did thank myself with a glass of whiskey :)
 
Question for experienced PS pump replacers:
If you used a press to press the gear onto the new pump, did your replacement last? My buddy who’s a former ps pump designer thinks I’ll be damaging the bearing that must be on the other end of that shaft.
 
It doesn't need to be pressed on, the nut will pull it on.

As mentioned in post #8-

Now you move the gear to the new pump. You need to torque the bolt to 54 ft-lbs like Dan said. I used a towel and then a channel lock to hold the gear in place while I first used the impact wrench and then torqued the nut down. The towel was to protect the gears.

I then set the O-ring in place.

Now the pump is ready to back in the truck.
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FWIW I use some sacrificial blocks of wood in the jaws of my vice to hold the gear when removing and replacing.
 
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It doesn't need to be pressed on, the nut will pull it on.

As mentioned in post #8-



FWIW I use some sacrificial blocks of wood in the jaws of my vice to hold the gear when removing and replacing.

Hmmm... others in this thread have said they resolved clicking with a press. In the YouTube video that pawnthatdude posted he hit it with a brass hammer 250 times. I torqued my bolt to 54 ft/lb, but it's clicking. I didn't use an impact to initially turn the bolt down, so maybe that's my issue.
 
The more I think about it, I think the clicking is probably because the gear is askew, not that it's not far enough on the shaft. Maybe hammering it like I did worked or maybe it didn't really do anything. I've not had it click on the 3 times I've done it though.
 
Gear noise is typically caused by damaged teeth. It doesn't take much to make a noise.
 
Gear noise is typically caused by damaged teeth. It doesn't take much to make a noise.
Well, I did a little damage to a tooth, so maybe that's it. I'll spend some time with a file and see if that helps.
 
How did you damage the tooth, using a metal tool, vice??
 
How did you damage the tooth, using a metal tool, vice??
I had a rag folded several times and wrapped around the gear. I was using channel locks to hold it while using an impact gun to remove the nut. Something slipped and I have some dings from the channel lock on a tooth.
 
Well, I did a little damage to a tooth, so maybe that's it. I'll spend some time with a file and see if that helps.

That's almost certainly the noise. To fix it you will need to replace the gear.
 
I had a rag folded several times and wrapped around the gear. I was using channel locks to hold it while using an impact gun to remove the nut. Something slipped and I have some dings from the channel lock on a tooth.

for those catching up...it’s why I make these 😜

 
Noted here for posterity, the gear is $90 shipped to Texas from partsouq.

Joey, I'm ordering the wrench from you now.
 
I pulled my old leaky PS pump. Turned out it was a Chinese pump. Vane Gear was also damaged from PO. Decided to do full replacement.

These have already been provided, but anyways:

FZJ80 Vane Gear: 44316-60020 (about $90 on partsouq)

New OEM pump: 44320-60182 ($265) - Pump does not come with vane gear, key slot, or nut for fastening the vane gear. I reused old key and nut. Also need O ring 90301-73004

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Success! The @NLXTACY Witsend doodad works perfectly of course. No need to press or hammer the gear on, just torque it. The damaged gear clicked, the new one doesn’t.
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When I have a gear that goes on a shaft and it says it needs to be pressed, I put the gear in the oven and heat it up, then put it on the cold shaft and it goes on nicely without a press and when it cools it's on there solid. I did this with the anti-lock ring on my new birfs and it worked like a charm.
I can't tell you if it's the BEST way to do it, but I haven't had any problems with stuff where I've used this technique - but it's a small sample size. Maybe I've been lucky. Who knows.
 
When I overhauled mine, I measured the gear and used a similar size hole saw in a piece of pine scrap. I then sawed the scrap in half on the table saw. I bracketed each side around the gear with the semi-circles in the wood and used a couple of clamps to hold it while I buzzed it off with the impact. I figured that southern yellow pine was quite a bit softer than gear teeth. To install it, I just put the fixture back on and drove it on with the nut. Worked fine with no noise when I was done. Also, automatic transmission assembly paste works magnificently for holding all the little vanes in place while reassembling the pump.
 
Thanks for all of the info here. I just bought another 80 and during inspection heard this ticking noise.. almost walked. But i moved the steering wheel to confirm noise, and the ticking went away with pressure on the wheel, so the guys story about the pump seemed accurate.

Anyway, we put a new gear on the rebuilt pump which was just installed, and BAM, no more noise.. used scrap wood in a vice, and large torque wrench. no press. I think the previous gear was not on all the way, nut came off easy. no threads showing through the nut. When we hit 57 lb/ft, we had 1 thread or so sticking thru the nut. Thanks!!
 

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